The smelly R-package's plastic undertray was missing when I bought the car (well, I think one piece of it is still attached). I haven't bothered replacing it yet since I rarely drive the car, but I was thinking about it today and started searching for a replacement.

So -- no Miata's at the local Pull-A-Part. OEM part is $60ish I think? And Moss sells a Cobalt SS undertray but it's 10 lbs, doesn't cover/seal like the original, and is $160.

I've also seen attempts at fabbing up replacements from aluminum or ABS with varying degrees of success. But I just came across this option, and I can't find any info on it on any of the forums:

NA Miata Aluminum Aero Undertray |



Thoughts? I don't really like the "Insert Tab A into Slot B" construction, but I'm sure shipping is cheaper and safer that way, and I don't know if it matters as long as it's secured and tight when installed.

 

I have one of those. I like it.
The slot and tab seems like once it's all screwed together it would be a non issue. Have it welded and be done with it if it's a problem. Might be able to torch braze it if no A/C welder.
I have boost pipes running through there so I didn't use them, not yet at least. Need the time to cut and fit.
It won't take a curb hit but is very strong. It doesn't deflect with just your hands.
It also comes with an air deflector to direct air to the radiator. It's and option that I can't use as that's where my intercooler is. It can be moved and I'm sure I'll get to that too.

It's not my thing but you could use this to help support DIY lips and such.

For the cost it's worth it unless your just needing to replace your factory one on a super stock daily.

 

I just got one of these in the mail. Looks pretty nice. Haven't tried fitting it up or anything as it literally came a few hours ago.

robert

 

Holy **** this is awesome. Nice find. My intercooler sits too low probably but I'll order one anyway. Mine is all warped and janky from trimming.

 

I was looking at it and thinking that I could probably bend the tabs flat, drill a hole, and then pop-rivet it.

 

Ya gotta be careful bending aluminum, if that's 6061 sheet it'll likely snap those tabs clean off if you try and bend them.

5052 is a malleable aluminum alloy that will bend easy-peasy.

 

What are the four bolts mounting to up front?

 

Front bumper, supposedly

 

This attaches to the stock rear locations, right?
So no NASA PT/TT points, right?

On the NB version, it looks like the 3 bolts go into the stock screw locations. But it does not have the bolt/nut connection in front behind the fender liner.

The slot/tab constructions looks like you wouldn't have to remove the side panels to get the bottom off. Yea, all Oil changes, remove the bottom tray first.

 

No points modifications: "Undertray/ belly pan forward of the centerline of the front axle". This meets that criteria, IMHO.

robert

 

Why? Or is this where you grab your filter from?

 

Oil change from the top. No need to remove the belly pan.

 

Fumoto drain valve and remote mount filter means I can change the oil in about 8 minutes.

 

Maybe I am super confused, but I don't recall ever having to take anything off to change the oil. Drain plug is easily accessed from under the car, oil filter easily accessed from the top of the car. Why are we removing the splash shield?

robert

 

What's the shipping on this...
Looked a month or 2 ago and it was $70 to socal

 

$12 Priority Mail to my zip.

 

I'll just have to recheck...
Been a bit...

 

Can you still use the stock air dam that goes in front of the radiator with this undertray?

 

I think that's what the 4 bolts is connecting to up front. I just ordered one and will post install. But I have a feeling I'll need to space it down because my intercooler sits a little low.

 

Yes, I take the filter off from underneath. I also take the intake manifold brace off. Fat arms.
AND I wipe up all the oil spilled from the filter when unscrewing it.