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Old 07-29-2009, 01:04 AM   #1
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Default Audio people in here please

I may be barking up the wrong tree with you guys, as I know you are all hardcore racers with only the essentials and whatnot... BUT, I think I want an amplifier for my car stereo. I have a Pioneer head unit, one of their top of the line models from 2 years ago, basic output for head units. I have standard size door speakers 5.25'' I think, and four 4'' speakers in the head rest. No wish to run a sub in the system, I'm not after bump, only overall power and volume. I can do fairly decent with just the head unit output volume wise, but once I crank the volume up to where it starts getting good, the bass takes over and distorts the sound. An amplifier will help with "crankability" wont it? Along with overall clarity at higher volumes? I'm not an audio tech person as you can tell. If so, 2 channel vs 4 channel. 2 channel is all I need correct? Good bang for your buck model in particular? Also, 2 Ohm vs 4 Ohm? Help my ignorant *** out.
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Old 07-29-2009, 01:14 AM   #2
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You'll have to put a cross-over on the door speakers but yes, it will work.

ADS 6.5" separates are pretty bad-***.
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Old 07-29-2009, 01:16 AM   #3
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See, even that lost me. A 2 channel amp means 1 speaker per channel right? a cross over is to split the signal? Any way to pump all 6 speakers off one amp? God I'm 23 and am a computer guy and I can't even grasp car audio. Make me feel like an old man.
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Old 07-29-2009, 01:16 AM   #4
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If you add an amplifier, you must have speakers that can handle the power being pumped into them. I am unfamiliar what the Miata speakers are, but I doubt they are robust enough for amplified power. If you want better sound, first add new speakers then the amplifier. Each channel powers a speaker, so you need however many channels for your speakers.

I may be wrong on this but I think lower ohms is better because it takes less wattage to power the speakers. Just make sure the amp output matches the speakers ohms. Hope this helps

**Edit** I an unsure on the channels part
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Old 07-29-2009, 01:20 AM   #5
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Well the speakers should be good enough. Both door and headrest speakers were rated for a high wattage, about the highest I could find in their sizes. I think they are all Pioneer, though the door speakers may be Kicker. I did a lot of reading up on reviews before I bought.

Just did some reading, why a crossover on the door speakers? One amp on full range speakers should not need a crossover should it?

I guess my biggest question would be, can you run 1 channel split into 2 speakers without too much loss or trouble (the rears having 4 would need to be split)? I was thinking maybe an Alpine or Kenwood 4 channel 200W amp. No big power needed for no sub system (I guess).

Last edited by NA6C-Guy; 07-29-2009 at 01:31 AM.
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Old 07-29-2009, 02:01 AM   #6
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maybe not, but lets say just 100-150 watts at 60hz through a 6.5 speaker is not goig to last long.
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Old 07-29-2009, 02:16 AM   #7
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Well on the Alpine I'm looking at, its 4 channel at 50W per channel. That should be fine on speakers rated... no ****, never mind. If these specs are right, they are only rated like ~150W max and 25W RMS. At 50W per channel, it might not be so good. I was thinking they were better speakers than that.

Well then, at 25W RMS, if I am correct in my understanding of RMS, wouldn't 1 channel at 50W split into two 4'' speakers only be ~25W RMS? The front speakers are also 150W max and 25W RMS.

I guess I should ask, should a system with 150W max 25W RMS speakers work with a small 200W 4 channel amp without anything additional, or would it even be worth the investment and time to rewire that **** again for like the 4th time? The head unit already puts out 50W per channel (x4) /22W RMS. So that should already be at my speakers limits should it not? I guess maybe I should leave it alone.
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Old 07-29-2009, 09:52 AM   #8
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I run a 600 watt 4-channel amp that powers two 6.5" components and a 10" subwoofer. It's fun. Just the two speakers/tweeters alone sound great.
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Old 07-29-2009, 09:58 AM   #9
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So high wattage on component speakers is OK then? Surely 200W 4 channel would run 6 speakers safely...?
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Old 07-29-2009, 11:05 AM   #10
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better to have too much power than too little...

so you've got six speakers right? four headrest and two doors... but you want them wired to two channels (left and right), right?

You *could* run the headrest speakers in series or parallel and the door speakers individually on a four channel amp... if the amp goes to 2 ohms, run the headrests in parallel and if it goes to 4, run in series... the latter is probably a better option to keep the HR speakers less loud than the door speakers. I'd suggest 4x75W RMS.
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Old 07-29-2009, 11:06 AM   #11
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I don't miss my headrest speakers....I'm like CATMAN! I have my tweeters pointed towards my ears (positioned near my mirrors) and I can hear everything with the top down at 100mph.
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Old 07-29-2009, 11:11 AM   #12
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Usually the RMS rating is done a little conservatively so that a slightly higher power rating than what is listed doesn't blow the speaker. It all depends on the speakers you have though. I've always heard to try and match the power outputs, so it's best to have a speaker with or near the same output rms as the amp.
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Old 07-29-2009, 12:02 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
I don't miss my headrest speakers....I'm like CATMAN! I have my tweeters pointed towards my ears (positioned near my mirrors) and I can hear everything with the top down at 100mph.

Hooray for staging!
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Old 07-29-2009, 12:08 PM   #14
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do like brain and ditch the headrest speakers and get some good tweeters and crossovers for your doors. My headrest speakers dont do a thing, especially with the top down. How am I suppose to hear something pointed at the back of my ears...
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Old 07-29-2009, 12:16 PM   #15
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Whenever I'm back in a miata with headrest speakers all I notice is and odd noise when I turn my head...


I'm running these tweeters and some random alpine drivers:
INFINITY REFERENCE 6020CS 6.5" CAR COMPONENT SPEAKERS - eBay (item 360171211375 end time Aug-15-09 05:47:53 PDT)

here's my little sub:


and where my tweeters are installed:
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Old 07-29-2009, 01:24 PM   #16
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the alpine amp your thinking about running is fine. although a little higher wattage wouldn't hurt. you def. want a 4ch. amp. your going to run the frt. channels (1&2) to your doors. that amp should have a built in x-over. switch it to ''HI-PASS'' and set the freq. (if it's adjustable) to 50-60hz. the rear channels (3&4) will run to your 4 rear hrest speakers. just take both left and both right and connect to amp. with 2 speakers hooked up to each channel, that side of the amp will be running at 2ohms, which is fine in stereo (left&right) but not bridged, but you don't have to worry about that since your not hooking up a subwoofer. set the x-over for those channels to HI-PASS also, but set the freq. (again, if adjustable, should be on alpine) to 100hz or maybe a little higher. your small headrest speaker's (which SHOULD be 3.5in. not 4'' unless you made them fit) can't play freq. as low as your larger door speakers can. as far as power/ohms go, your alpine your describing is 200w amp. that means at full power. full power would be all channels (4)driven @ 2ohms. so 50x4. BUT, if you were to run all channels @ 4ohms you would only put 25w x 4. that's why a little larger amp would be better, especially for your frt. speaker's. the rears are fine with 25w since they are so small. either way, it'll be waaaayyyy louder and cleaner sounding than your deck alone is. most, if not all deck's these day's say 50wx4, but that's max or peak power. (aka, bullshit rating) real power on most cd player's can be found buried in the owner's manual and is usually rated @ 12-14WX4 RMS (REAL WORLD power rating) good luck.
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Old 07-29-2009, 01:36 PM   #17
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A crossover is a device that removes the bass from the signal going to your tweeters and midrange. It helps to keep them from distorting when the bass hits, homey.
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Old 07-29-2009, 02:14 PM   #18
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Speakers are ******* awesome, and can be found for a steal on ebay.

Polk Audio MMC6500 6-1/2" component speaker system Certified for marine use at Crutchfield.com

Tweeters placed into the vent cups.



I cant imagine music, not rap, music without deep bass. I added the 2 8" kickers in the rear and the sound was significantly improved. Then top that off spending some time with dynamat and sealing off the trunk, and you have yourself an amazing sounding stereo.

I don't know anyone with a better sounding stereo, according to my ears of course. And mine wasn't "crazy" expensive, it just took time to do it all. I highly recommend a similar setup for anyone looking to enjoy the car ride even more.
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Old 07-29-2009, 03:38 PM   #19
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First off, a top of the line Pioneer head unit from 2 years ago probably has a built in cross over. I'd cross the fronts over at 60Hz for the door speakers and like 1kHz for the headrests and see how it sounds. That'll kill a lot of distortion when cranked up and sound better than it does now.

You can put 1000w/channel amp on the fronts and running them full range will still sound like ****.

If you do run an amp, just get a decent 2 channel amp for the fronts. The rears are probably only rated at 30-40w max anyway.

Frank
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Old 07-29-2009, 06:52 PM   #20
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I have a RF punch 360a2 I'd sell for $80 if you're interested. Punch amps are underrated, this one specifically tested over 500RMS on the birth certificate.

your door speakers most likely have 4ohm coils so you could wire them parallel on one channel to get [email protected], 125w each speaker, and use the other channel for a DVC sub also wired in parallel for another 250rms. If your door speakers can't handle 125w you could wire them in series for halt the wattage.

IMO if youre going to upgrade the sound, you need a small sub as well. You don't have to listen to rap to appreciate bass. Imagine watching a movie at the theater without bass.
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