BeGI coolant reroute - Upper radiator S-hose fitment issues - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

Welcome to Miataturbo.net   Members
 


General Miata Chat A place to talk about anything Miata

Reply
 
 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 08-07-2013, 05:41 AM   #1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Saint Paul, MN
Posts: 1,295
Total Cats: 22
Default BeGI coolant reroute - Upper radiator S-hose fitment issues

I edited this earlier, but I have since determined that I can't figure out a way to make this work. My radiator appears to sit too close to the FM downpipe to allow for the re-route hose to make it around it without significant kinking in the hose. The red line is where my radiator fitting ends:



The same re-route on another Miata:


According to his page and pictures here, he has a different amount of clearance compared to my engine, maybe because of the swap to a 99 head? I'm still on the 97 tbody so I have a slanted fitting from FM that includes an IAC hose, the attachment neck is also already bumping up on the IAC wiring, so I can't trim that closer to tbody either.

Any suggestions? I considered going over the engine and adding a bleeder neck but that's a last resort.
Attached Thumbnails
BeGI coolant reroute - Upper radiator S-hose fitment issues-problemsfittingbegireroutehose.jpg   BeGI coolant reroute - Upper radiator S-hose fitment issues-dsc_2472.jpg  

Last edited by Der_Idiot; 08-07-2013 at 01:57 PM.
Der_Idiot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-2013, 02:06 PM   #2
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Saint Paul, MN
Posts: 1,295
Total Cats: 22
Default

I'm considering taking a sawsall to the radiator fitting and cutting the passenger side at an angle so when the hose is bent at that extremely close angle it can still flow through. Something like this:



Dad was considering cutting off the fitting and angling it so it points left instead. Not sure that's something we can do since I don't have a TIG welder on retainer. :-/

A third option is to go on the driver's side and through where the IAC hose goes, but there's not enough room for the hose that I currently have..
Attached Thumbnails
BeGI coolant reroute - Upper radiator S-hose fitment issues-rerouteupperradiatorhosefix.png  
Der_Idiot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-2013, 02:12 PM   #3
Elite Member
iTrader: (6)
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Lebanon, TN
Posts: 1,668
Total Cats: 63
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Der_Idiot View Post
Dad was considering cutting off the fitting and angling it so it points left instead. Not sure that's something we can do since I don't have a TIG welder on retainer. :-/
That would be an option. I wouldn't want to cut it shorter due to losing the rib in the radiator fitting and having the hose blow off later. Cutting, angling, and re-welding is a pain, but should last.
TorqueZombie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-2013, 02:20 PM   #4
Elite Member
iTrader: (3)
 
concealer404's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 8,465
Total Cats: 782
Default

I believe Adam also has a 37mm radiator, not the 55mm monstrosity you seem to have. (I have one, too.)

Also consider differences in intercooler piping.
concealer404 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-2013, 03:34 PM   #5
Elite Member
iTrader: (10)
 
soviet's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: VA
Posts: 3,518
Total Cats: 258
Default

Cut a little bit off the 90* elbow on the intake manifold. Make it shorter and force it on the throttle body.
soviet is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-2013, 03:37 PM   #6
Boost Czar
iTrader: (61)
 
Braineack's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 72,868
Total Cats: 1,790
Default

cut a little off both hoses.
Braineack is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-2013, 04:07 PM   #7
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Saint Paul, MN
Posts: 1,295
Total Cats: 22
Default

The issue with cutting off the tbody elbow is that the solid pipe below it is already riding almost directly on the fastener for the IAC (green plug above). I wonder if the radiator in the 2nd picture is a 37mm and that's where they get the extra clearance?
Der_Idiot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-2013, 04:11 PM   #8
Elite Member
iTrader: (3)
 
concealer404's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 8,465
Total Cats: 782
Default

I believe Adam also has a 37mm radiator, not the 55mm monstrosity you seem to have. (I have one, too.)

Also consider differences in intercooler piping.
concealer404 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-2013, 04:50 PM   #9
Elite Member
iTrader: (13)
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Taos, New mexico
Posts: 5,702
Total Cats: 237
Default

I had this issue and resovled it. Scope my build thread.

Mine ended up like this:


I use a silicone 90 like yours, but cut it short as possible. I also cut the radiator hose short as possible.

They run now, but nothing crazy. So far it's holding up great.
Attached Thumbnails
BeGI coolant reroute - Upper radiator S-hose fitment issues-uakcsvf.jpg  
Fireindc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-2013, 05:29 PM   #10
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Saint Paul, MN
Posts: 1,295
Total Cats: 22
Default

Is there an easy source of the m-tuned spring coil they use to keep the hose from collapsing? I think I should get one for this particular hose..
Der_Idiot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-2013, 05:35 PM   #11
Elite Member
iTrader: (3)
 
concealer404's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 8,465
Total Cats: 782
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Der_Idiot View Post
Is there an easy source of the m-tuned spring coil they use to keep the hose from collapsing? I think I should get one for this particular hose..
Summit, Jegs, Advance Auto Parts, Napa, Autozone, OReilly's, etc etc etc
concealer404 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2013, 01:42 AM   #12
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Saint Paul, MN
Posts: 1,295
Total Cats: 22
Default

Good news! I made it fit (marginally) better. Sadly, I filled the car with coolant and almost immediately the rear water neck started a slow drip. Is that common? Black RTV should seal this thing right?
Der_Idiot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2013, 02:15 AM   #13
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Saint Paul, MN
Posts: 1,295
Total Cats: 22
Default

I'm really hoping I get some gaskets tomorrow that seal better, I'm going to use some black rtv, just hope I can get this **** back on the back of the motor while not ******* up the RTV at the same time.. Dilemma!
Der_Idiot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2013, 03:34 AM   #14
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Sweden
Posts: 1,391
Total Cats: 58
Default

What I would want is a "Z-pipe" to add the the inlet to be able to attach the hose in the frame rail location/height, making the most possible room for intake pipe routing.
Asking for a radiator with the inlet at the edge (with internal piping to make the inlet lower) would be too much I guess.

Hm, asking a welder to add a Z-pipe to relocate the inlet would not be too complicated I guess.

At least for NB there is nothing in the way for doing so (not in my engine bay).
NiklasFalk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2013, 10:03 AM   #15
Boost Czar
iTrader: (61)
 
Braineack's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 72,868
Total Cats: 1,790
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Der_Idiot View Post
I'm really hoping I get some gaskets tomorrow that seal better, I'm going to use some black rtv, just hope I can get this **** back on the back of the motor while not ******* up the RTV at the same time.. Dilemma!
i hate using rtv for gaskets, especially when to seal flanges that pass fluids.

if i was forced to, i would have used gray not black. black is for oil, gray for water.
Braineack is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2013, 10:54 AM   #16
Cpt. Slow
iTrader: (25)
 
curly's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oregon City, OR
Posts: 12,107
Total Cats: 518
Default

Supposedly it's all possible with the engine in, but my slow drip was one small reason I decided to pull the engine a while back (the bigger reason was a leaking RMS and failing clutch) and used the opportunity to seal it up properly.
curly is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2013, 02:46 PM   #17
Junior Member
iTrader: (5)
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Gilbert, Az
Posts: 337
Total Cats: 26
Default

Make 100000x sure there's no old gasket material left on the rear flange. I checked mine about 50x for any debris, and found a little more old gasket clinging each time. I went in with a razor by hand, and just kept working at the area from different angles doing my best not to scratch the metal.
I also used the Mazda thermostat gasket, as it seemed more substantial than the slightly thinner more papery aftermarket ones. I didn't use any additional goop/sealer or anything.

I wanted to make sure it sealed right cause I never, ever, ever wanted to have to go back in there to fix a leak in that god forsaken area of the engine bay. So far it's been leak free for 2-3 months ~2k miles.
SJP0tato is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2013, 07:43 PM   #18
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Saint Paul, MN
Posts: 1,295
Total Cats: 22
Default

Would you guys suggest using two FelPro gaskets (35251) with the silicone ring on the back instead of generic paper gaskets?
Der_Idiot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2013, 10:27 AM   #19
Junior Member
iTrader: (5)
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Gilbert, Az
Posts: 337
Total Cats: 26
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Der_Idiot View Post
Would you guys suggest using two FelPro gaskets (35251) with the silicone ring on the back instead of generic paper gaskets?
The FelPro looks closer to OEM than the ones I got in my MTuned kit, but at the price difference of $1-2 for OEM vs aftermarket I'd just swing by the dealership and pick up one of these: GASKET,THERMOSTAT (B621-15-173) - $3.62 - B62115173

Using two probably wouldn't help the seal at all (did you mean stacked one on the other?).
Just make sure the surfaces are both super clean and completely flat.
SJP0tato is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2013, 11:43 AM   #20
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Saint Paul, MN
Posts: 1,295
Total Cats: 22
Default

We got creative last night. I used a pair of bolts long enough to RTV both sides of the gasket for the coolant neck as well as the sandwich plate, then put rtv on the other side of the plate and stuck the other gasket on (both rubber sides were facing the coolant neck).

I didn't put any RTV on the outside of the neck-to-block gasket and used the old neck to finger-tight the assembly together. This let it set outside the car. After an hour or so I put RTV on the last part and put it in the car, finger tight. 4 hours later I torqued down, and I'll fill the coolant tonight after work; a good 16-17 hours later.
Der_Idiot is offline   Reply With Quote
 
 
Reply

Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Project Gemini - Turbo Civic on the Cheap Full_Tilt_Boogie Build Threads 58 Yesterday 10:04 PM
MSPNPPro-MM0105: Coolant Temperature Output slomiata MEGAsquirt 5 10-07-2015 02:11 PM
Expected intake temps on the track? tazswing Race Prep 20 10-03-2015 12:04 PM
Bad head gasket or ? shooterschmidty Engine Performance 8 09-30-2015 11:28 PM


Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:05 PM.