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Old 07-19-2013, 01:09 PM   #41
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stop cranking it so much and fix the issue first.
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Old 07-19-2013, 04:56 PM   #42
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I don't know where to go from here. I've re-hooked up the MS to the car in attempts to reflash the firmware. I disconnected the ignitor. I have a paper clip running from the two "boot" holes on the MS board.

I turn the car to "on" and do a port check and it reads the same as my previous screenshots.

I then open the 'ms2loader_win32.exe' and go through hitting enter. I then manually select the COM port which it is 4 according to Device Manager and then I hit enter it shows this:



Com4...garbled reply...???
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Bought a Miata that won't start - Help Troubleshoot-mswithbootjump3_zpsb84781b5.jpg  
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Old 07-20-2013, 02:45 PM   #43
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Which USB to serial converter did you buy? These are notoriously flaky pieces of hardware.

--Ian
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Old 07-20-2013, 03:03 PM   #44
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It's possibly a bad CPU beyond being a reflash. I can send you a replacement for postage... Would have firmware and tune loaded.
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Old 07-20-2013, 03:35 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by codrus View Post
Which USB to serial converter did you buy? These are notoriously flaky pieces of hardware.

--Ian
I have the Serial-USB converter directly from DIYAutoTune's site because I know the risk of crappy converters. Since it is coming directly from the source, it would help eliminate that potential risk.

Quote:
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It's possibly a bad CPU beyond being a reflash. I can send you a replacement for postage... Would have firmware and tune loaded.
Braineack, that would be great if you could. Is it the whole unit or what exactly is it and would there need to be any work from my end to get it installed other than just PNP. Feel free to PM me if it's easier to discuss.
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Old 07-20-2013, 05:27 PM   #46
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the CPU is that 64-pin IC with the white label on it in your pics.

http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/c...cpu-p-105.html
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Old 07-20-2013, 05:33 PM   #47
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And is that just a pull the old one and plug the new one in type job or is there soldering involved.
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Old 07-20-2013, 07:33 PM   #48
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So I ended up switching out my CAS for one I bought from ClubRoadster. When I pulled my CAS, I noticed some corrosion so I went ahead and installed the CR CAS

IMG_20130720_143756_zps184a3ad1.jpg?t=1374359146

Now onto the good stuff. Something obviously is not right. Watch the video but spark notes:

- 13 second mark: First turn to "On" nothing lights up on the MS.
- 16 second mark: After I turn the key to off, the MS lights up as if it is powered on and my FP continues to run with the "clicking noise"
- 1 min mark: Removed ignitor module and the ticking and FP stopped and the MS lights are off
- 1:32 mark: Turn the car back to on and the MS lights now blink, the FP and clicking noise is back but everything will stop when I turn the key off.

WTF?

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Old 07-21-2013, 09:14 AM   #49
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the power issue is odd, i feel like someone else was having something like this happen. could be a bad ignition switch itself, but unplugging the ignitor was allowing the main relay to switch back off (something the ignition switch should have done).

does it ever do that with the sotck ECU in place? the MS having a bad firmware can do some really weird ****.



no soldering required, just get something long and flat to pry it up and install the new one in it's place. LMK cause I think it's a great sollution considering you cannot flash the CPU even with the boot jumper installed (although I'd still ask DIY for advice.)
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Old 07-21-2013, 11:23 AM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
the power issue is odd, i feel like someone else was having something like this happen. could be a bad ignition switch itself, but unplugging the ignitor was allowing the main relay to switch back off (something the ignition switch should have done).

does it ever do that with the sotck ECU in place? the MS having a bad firmware can do some really weird ****.



no soldering required, just get something long and flat to pry it up and install the new one in it's place. LMK cause I think it's a great sollution considering you cannot flash the CPU even with the boot jumper installed (although I'd still ask DIY for advice.)
Braineack,

Let's go ahead and start with replacing that CPU chip. If that doesn't work then I'll go ahead and send an e-mail to DIY.

Secondly, I'll work on putting the stock ECU back in and seeing what happens. All I need to do is hook the ECU back up and then plug in the MAF?
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Old 07-21-2013, 01:27 PM   #51
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Pretty much... I have not personally worked on the 1.6s, but pretty much just work the steps backwards that are outlined in that how to PDF I sent you (that Brain made). He may have a few other specific tips for ya.
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Old 07-21-2013, 10:59 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post

no soldering required, just get something long and flat to pry it up and install the new one in it's place.
Be really careful prying with a screwdriver, it has a tendency to mess up the pins.

--Ian
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Old 07-24-2013, 11:06 PM   #53
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Just an update. Got home and put the new ECU chip in.

Turned the car to 'On' and noticed that the MS light comes on, the "clicking" is still there but not as loud and still no check engine light.

I open TS and started a new project. It detected the MS and then brings me to the Port screen where it first said Successful and then if I click 'Test Port' again sometimes it goes to Failed and sometimes it says Successful

IMG_20130724_185217_zps9fbf3db1.jpg?t=1374717577
IMG_20130724_190209_zps8ce59381.jpg?t=1374717849
IMG_20130724_190232_zps06c8d777.jpg?t=1374717874


When I look at what looks to be the summary log, it says 'Invalid Data Received from Controller'

IMG_20130724_190319_zpsf98a3ff8.jpg?t=1374717883

Any thoughts on where to go from here?
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Old 07-25-2013, 02:32 AM   #54
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Is your USB port good, and the adapter? I know if I bump mine at all it will disconnect and get all pissy on me. Can you turn on comm debug?
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Old 07-25-2013, 11:17 PM   #55
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I bought the serial from DIYAutoTune so the serial-to-USB should be good. My ports should be good as well as I've used them to hook my iPod and other devices to upload music.
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Old 07-26-2013, 08:32 AM   #56
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well youre not getting garbage back from the CPU now, but it seems your connection is still hit or miss? have you been able to even connect to the ECU beyond the screens you showed to review the tune?
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Old 07-26-2013, 11:43 AM   #57
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I am able configure the project but then after, it just says "Not Connected"
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Old 07-26-2013, 12:08 PM   #58
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Would a bad ignition module cause all of these problems?

The screenshots and troubleshooting in my last post was with the ignition module removed. Then when I plugged it back in, there were these differences:

When I turned the car to "On"
- With the module unplugged, the ECU showed a power red light and there was faint clicking under the hood.
- With the module plugged in, the ECU did not show power red lights

When I turned the car to "Off"
- With the module unplugged, the ECU red lights powered down and the faint clicking under the hood stopped.
- With the module plugged in, the two lights on the ECU continued to show red and the clicking continued even after I had removed the key from the ignition.

To me, that sounds like something is wrong or faulty with the ignition module unless it is supposed to act this way when it is plugged/unplugged in.
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Old 07-27-2013, 07:17 AM   #59
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So I ended up making a few purchases in hopes to narrow down my problems. The problem where the MS will sometimes mate up and be recognized tells me 2 things

#1: the MS itself is having problems and likely need a new one
#2: the cord from the MS to the Serial-USB converter is somehow faulty

Seeing how #2 is the cheapest route, I bought another cord from DIYAutoTune ($21). If the problem continues then I know that it has to be the MS ECU itself.

The other problem is that I was not getting a CEL. Based upon the 'No-Start Troubleshooting' thread, I ended up buying an ignitor module ($16) in case the previous owner shorted it and I ended up buying a MAIN relay ($17) (part#: JE16-18-811).
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Old 07-27-2013, 10:17 AM   #60
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i'd think your relay is suspect; it's not the MS. the issue is intermittent power and constant power after the key is removed from the ignition.

Does the MSPNP have a power port on it? if so you should test it with a 12v power supply, out of the car, and see if you can connect.
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