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Old 08-03-2012, 04:15 PM   #41
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I had to back my timing down a bit to stop my car from overheating in this weather, I'll advance it back up once ambient temps go below 105F.

This is how I see the sun right now in my miata.
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Old 08-03-2012, 04:20 PM   #42
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it's probably the battery. dead cell.
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Old 08-03-2012, 06:15 PM   #43
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What kind of acid did you use to flush the system? Muratic? Im not sure if thats spelled correctly
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Old 08-03-2012, 08:30 PM   #44
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My '96 overheated when bone stock with A/C running after heat soaking from idling in a sun baked parking lot for a couple of hours. I have since acquired an IR thermometer and learned that asphalt temps in the summer sun commonly reach 135*F or better at 95-96* ambient. I wonder what yours is.
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Old 08-03-2012, 08:54 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Miater View Post
What kind of acid did you use to flush the system? Muratic? Im not sure if thats spelled correctly
Radiator flush bottle.

On a related note, I found the problem. My passenger side fan stops working after a few seconds. Now, if only I could find the fan I removed from the turbo car I could make this work.
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Old 08-03-2012, 09:11 PM   #46
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Pass fan is a/c fan. Only comes on when the ac button is pushed and the fan is on.
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Old 08-03-2012, 10:24 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flounder View Post
Pass fan is a/c fan. Only comes on when the ac button is pushed and the compressor is on.
I fixed it for you. I think? I think the fan is only on with the compressor.

The timing question is a good one. You should check it just for grins.
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Old 08-04-2012, 03:13 AM   #48
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Pass fan is a/c fan. Only comes on when the ac button is pushed and the fan is on.
Not on my computer. Reverant already said 203 and 208* activation points for each.
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Old 08-04-2012, 04:53 AM   #49
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Can you hotwire the fan and have it stay on or is it the fan motor itself?
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Old 08-04-2012, 09:19 AM   #50
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I meant interior fan (blower) Basically when the hvac is on and the button is pushed. But yeah, if he's running a standalone who the hell knows?
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Old 08-04-2012, 10:29 AM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hustler View Post
Not on my computer. Reverant already said 203 and 208* activation points for each.
presumably he's got it set up so the a/c fan comes on with a/c compressor OR when temps are over 208F.

Which I think is how stock fan works.

Can you change the temp to something like 150 to make sure it's coming on when that trigger is reached?
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Old 08-04-2012, 11:59 AM   #52
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This is why I wired both fans to a big relay and switch. No questions asked. If the switch is up, they're on, if it's down, they're off.

You can buy those cheapo $12(??) ebay slim fans and mount the motor and blade assembly into the stock shroud. That's what I did when one of my motors blew.

I can't tell if your fan is broken or if you're having a software/sensor issue.
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Old 08-04-2012, 12:33 PM   #53
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The fan says "CLANK CLANK CLANK OHMERGARD I'M BROKED" so I'm fairly certain it's a problem with the fan. Thanks for the tip Curly, I'll keep the shroud for the slim-fans I've had in the garage for 5-years.
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Old 08-04-2012, 06:19 PM   #54
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New fans sealed to the radiator and it still overheats. ----
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Old 08-04-2012, 06:36 PM   #55
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I didn't think that one fan would be the issue. It's the flow, man.
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Old 08-04-2012, 07:46 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rleete View Post
I didn't think that one fan would be the issue. It's the flow, man.
Obstruction has moved into the lead.

Did the radiator have any styrofoam supports? Any chance they broke/fragmented and a chunk got into the radiator? This actually happened to me when I replaced the radiator on our pickup years ago, but I was able to get it out with reverse flow from a hose.
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Old 08-05-2012, 12:21 AM   #57
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No foam in there.
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Old 08-05-2012, 10:00 AM   #58
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the new fan stays on right?
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Old 08-06-2012, 10:14 AM   #59
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Quote:
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the new fan stays on right?
Yes.
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Old 08-06-2012, 11:13 AM   #60
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Late to the party. Stop guessing if your rad caps are good or not, I've gotten DOA ones from mazda motorpsorts. Put the cap on and squeeze the upper rad hose, if you can hear/see the coolant flowing into the overflow its no good. You have to squeeze really really hard to make it go in with a good cap, don't know if its even possible though, never made coolant go into the overflow with this method on a good cap.
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