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Chassis Rigidity beyond a roll bar...

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Old Mar 23, 2012 | 05:06 PM
  #21  
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I can't stress enough how much Boss Frog door bars + FM frame rails and butterfly brace did to my stock (r package)(now with RB sway bars) miata.

The improvement was monumental. At first i just had the frame rails and butterfly brace, and that made it pretty good. But after installing the door bars i could feel just pulling out of my driveway EVERYTHING was stiffened up. I also love my boss frog bars, they don't get in the way of anything. Everyone i let sit in my car say they don't even notice them. Even a buddy of mine that's over 6' 240lbs+ says he doesn't notice them.

Like i said, i highly suggest the combo.
Old Mar 23, 2012 | 05:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Ben
If I lift my 01 at one of the rear points, it will pick up 3 wheels. My rollbar is welded in, and the rear uprights go all the way to the frame rails in the trunk. It has sport bracing, but no aftermarket rails or door bars.
i can't picture how 3 wheels can lift off the ground, especially if lifted from the rear...
Old Mar 23, 2012 | 05:27 PM
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that said, i have frame rails, no x brace, and a HD sport bar. I'll be putting in the FM vmaxx track setup shortly, if there are any chassis issues i'll probably go door bars first then frog arms, as funds allow.
Old Mar 23, 2012 | 05:36 PM
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Plus these things just look sexy as shiz!!



Oh, i forgot, the seats were a little bit of a PITA but i got them in.
Attached Thumbnails Chassis Rigidity beyond a roll bar...-6138796786_3820784bba_o.jpg  
Old Mar 23, 2012 | 06:24 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by crono36
i can't picture how 3 wheels can lift off the ground, especially if lifted from the rear...
Jack goes up, all wheels except for the one diagonal from the jack go up as well. I'll take a pic at some point. Car is loaded on the trailer now.

The roll bar is welded to the frame rail. Pics of roll bar here:
https://www.miataturbo.net/general-miata-chat-9/i-have-disease-aka-miata-3-a-56401/

I'm not a fan of the bolt in door bars personally (roll cage nascar bars are a different story). I would stitch weld the seam around the door opening before installing bolt in door bars.
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Old Mar 23, 2012 | 06:26 PM
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ahh, for some reason i was expecting the other rear wheel to be planted. that makes sense now.
Old Mar 26, 2012 | 04:04 AM
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I have been away form Miatas for a while...Hadn't seen the door bars before. Those don't look bad at all. How does it effect the seat moving back and forth?

Craig
Old Mar 26, 2012 | 04:27 AM
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Originally Posted by mankiew
I have been away form Miatas for a while...Hadn't seen the door bars before. Those don't look bad at all. How does it effect the seat moving back and forth?

Craig
Probably about 85-90% of what it used to be. Passenger seat needs to be a few notches from all the way back due to the MS behind the seat. Drivers seat goes all the way back. I think i could have allotted more room on the seat side by installing them a little better. But the seats work nonetheless.
Old Mar 26, 2012 | 11:08 PM
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On an NB, the ecu isn't behind the passenger seat anymore but the factory still puts in the bracket to limit that seats travel. It can be removed to allow the passenger seat to travel all the way back. The door bars won't affect fore/aft travel as they are parallel to the seats.

I have decided to man up and install mine. Just waiting for clear weather to do it on the flat part of my driveway.
Old Mar 27, 2012 | 10:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Lokiel

I have an MSM which had more chassis stiffening than most NBs to start with and here's my progressive chassis stiffening mods and how I ranked them (0 = no difference, 5 = most difference):

- MX5 Plus Twin Hoop Roll Bar with intergrated torque box (5)
- FM Frame Rails (2)
- Boss Frog Frog Arms (3)
- Carbing 3-point Front Strut Brace (0) - the stock MSM front strut brace is quite good

Frog Arms made a bigger difference than the frame rails but the fact that I can easily get 2 wheels airbourne when jacking up a corner indicates that the frame rails are doing a pretty good job of chassis stiffening.
I'm surprised you scored the 3 point brace so low. I have the exact same one and love it. But... you do have the MSM, but damn lol
Old Mar 27, 2012 | 10:31 PM
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Perhaps adding a large reinforcement plate to the attachment point of the 3 point STB, where it joins the firewall area, will spread the load and increase its effectivity. Popstoy on m.net did this and said it had a large effect.
Old Mar 27, 2012 | 10:40 PM
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i guess you mean the backing plate. yea i have this on my STB and it made such an improvement over my old 2 pt
Old Mar 27, 2012 | 11:31 PM
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WTTFF????

If you jack up an unbraced car will it really arch like a mcdonalds sign?
Old Mar 27, 2012 | 11:42 PM
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Originally Posted by atlnb
I'm surprised you scored the 3 point brace so low. I have the exact same one and love it. But... you do have the MSM, but damn lol
As a said, the MSM OEM brace is quite good so I didn't really notice the difference. What I SHOULD have done was take the car for a drive without any front strut brace, install the 3-pt brace and do the same test. I sure that there would have been a noticeable difference then.
Old Mar 27, 2012 | 11:47 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by JasonC SBB
Perhaps adding a large reinforcement plate to the attachment point of the 3 point STB, where it joins the firewall area, will spread the load and increase its effectivity. Popstoy on m.net did this and said it had a large effect.

These 3-pt braces do come with a firewall backing plate that also attaches to the chassis:



Some people have questioned the validity of the 3-pt braces that simply mount to the firewall which is a valid concern because the firewall does flex - the rear bracket that also gets screwed into the chassis helps prevent this.
Attached Thumbnails Chassis Rigidity beyond a roll bar...-05_fireredfirewallrearbrace.jpg  
Old Mar 28, 2012 | 12:20 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Lokiel
As a said, the MSM OEM brace is quite good so I didn't really notice the difference. What I SHOULD have done was take the car for a drive without any front strut brace, install the 3-pt brace and do the same test. I sure that there would have been a noticeable difference then.
wouldn't have mattered anyway since you already said you didn't notice any difference.
Old Mar 28, 2012 | 03:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Lokiel
Some people have questioned the validity of the 3-pt braces that simply mount to the firewall which is a valid concern because the firewall does flex - the rear bracket that also gets screwed into the chassis helps prevent this.
That's one question people have, other questions are: "does the strut tower brace even do anything?" With a 4 link suspension, the only forces going into the shock tower are what is being absorbed by the strut, any lateral movement stays in the subframe.
Old Mar 28, 2012 | 10:19 AM
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blah
Old May 4, 2012 | 11:02 PM
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Is there any alternative to the Frog Arm product? I'm taking my fenders off (front clip already off for engine removal) and am going to Herculine the lips for rust/chipping prevention from our gritty roads and the occasional winter drive. I don't want to spring $250 so if there is a DIY frog arm that would be nice?
Old May 5, 2012 | 02:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Landrew
Is there any alternative to the Frog Arm product? I'm taking my fenders off (front clip already off for engine removal) and am going to Herculine the lips for rust/chipping prevention from our gritty roads and the occasional winter drive. I don't want to spring $250 so if there is a DIY frog arm that would be nice?
Alternative is just welding some stupid piece of metal between the places where frog shiz bolts up. Not rocket surgery shiiiii



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