Clutch
 

So i got my miata back fineilly and i have the xtd clutch and when you drive it then stop and leave it in first it was to jump somtimes its been bleed once already is there another adjustment?

it was to jump sometimes??? :confused:

If your fluid level is not dropping, your clutch master cylinder is going bad. If your fluid level is dropping, it is the slave cylinder dying or a connection down to the slave or the bleeder leaking.

new slave and master is new idk its a 6 pluck so maybe its suppose to be agressive?

adjustment rod on the pedal itself dude check it out.

wtf are you saying?

dude, I'm so confused about what it is your problem is....

he is getting poor clutch engagement you guys dont speek very good giberish :rofl:

puck designs are like that...no more slippage into gear. give it a bit of gas and let off the clutch, don't ease into it. it should hookup right away, with no "studder". That's why they aren't the best for the street.

how is that compared to a "sintered iron" clutch? I can slip the clutch in Dad's camaro, but this thread scares me for the miata.

I dunno to be honest.

The design of the puck clutch is focusing all the rotating weight, providing for better clamping.

But launching from a stop has to be altered. Typicaly on a standard oem clutch, you ease into 1st gear, slowly feathering off the clutch. This is hard to do on a pucked clutch, as once it grabs, it grabs. So you tend to "studder" the car since it wasn't a smooth transistion and not enough gas pedal was given.

You can quickly get used to it, but you have to get used to it.


FWIW, the first time I drove a pucked clutch it was odd, but I trust I would have been fine after 30mins. Currently I have a clutch with an OEM surface on the pressure plate for semi-smoother engagement and pucked on the flywheel side for better clamping force.

I assume the puck clutch won't last as long as a kevlar / funky material one too. I wonder if its harder on the trans and rear end?

I've had a 6 point puck clutch for almost 40K and it doesn't seem any different than when it was new. I have a lighter pressure plate, so the fact that I can slip it well may have something to do with that. Others that get into the car need to get used to it, however.

From a stop, rev up to 3k, let off the throttle, then let up on the clutch while rpm is dropping, then add throttle back in. it won't shudder.

i can slip my XD just like ay other clutch. and it is pucked it just takes abit of feel to get used to.

er, someone brought up kevlar... i hate kevlar. plus it smells weird when it burns. the puck clutch might engage like shit but at least you wont be under the car in a couple months replacing something that wont hold, and they're typically cheap.

thank you for the superior logic.

well, i can start talking about the different characteristics of the friction materials, coupled with different clamping forces and the effect of having "pucks" cut into the friction material. and how that's going to change the engagement of the clutch, and its potential torque holding capacity. not to mention all the clearances involved with stepping flywheels and building custom clutches. but then again, a clutch isnt all that complicated, plus i prefer to keep it simple myself. or we can start talking about how a static compression becomes dynamic as a result of increasing cylinder pressure, and what the final compression ratio would be. that's a fun one, but you need to know some other things first.

I too have heard Kevlar makes better helmets than clutches..

::bites tongue on compression ratio comment::

:bigtu: i would bite my tongue on the compression ratio thing. that's a cool thing to think about as its happening though