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Old Dec 12, 2007 | 08:10 PM
  #21  
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Mine isn't in the car... it's on my shelf as of now, I'm still working on a few things. So I can't tell you anything about it holding up in my car, but the unsprung hub is a bitch in stop and go rudh hour traffic...
Old Dec 12, 2007 | 08:14 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by m2cupcar
I'm happy with my sprung 6 puck cerametallic from clutchnet. Feels like the trans will give before the disk on hard launch. Traffic stop N go isn't any fun. The ebay sprung disks don't look like mine- similar, but they lack the "encapsulation" flanges that surround the springs. That's what tore apart on my spec... the second time.
m2cupcar but you track your car as well as use it as a daily driver; I don't think mine is going to see much of a track at all, plus; for me it would be a bitch to use a hard clutch every day! The most I'm going to be doing with it is a few launches just to get a sense of how fast it really is.

If I understand where Dan is coming from, I would like a clutch similar to the one he's thinking about buying. Heavy clutches are for young people, I'd rather use what's left of my strength for other fun things

And Dan, I'm not implying you're in my age group
Old Dec 12, 2007 | 08:17 PM
  #23  
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I drove an ACT HD 4 puck clutch a few weeks ago. Based on driving it, I wouldn't be afraid of a 6 puck clutch.
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Originally Posted by concealer404
Buy an MSPNP Pro, you'll feel better.
Old Dec 12, 2007 | 08:26 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Ben
I drove an ACT HD 4 puck clutch a few weeks ago. Based on driving it, I wouldn't be afraid of a 6 puck clutch.
Are you talking in a Miata?
Old Dec 12, 2007 | 08:46 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by m2cupcar
I'm happy with my sprung 6 puck cerametallic from clutchnet. Feels like the trans will give before the disk on hard launch. Traffic stop N go isn't any fun. The ebay sprung disks don't look like mine- similar, but they lack the "encapsulation" flanges that surround the springs. That's what tore apart on my spec... the second time.
that's what my tilton twins were originally. I drove it for almost a year like that. holy ***.

also fwiw the kevlar disks also have a lower coeff of friction and like scott said will glaze if you look at them funny. they're for high mileage work vehicles or big rigs.
Old Dec 12, 2007 | 08:48 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Spaniard
Are you talking in a Miata?
yes, in droptopdrifter's (unthrottled) supercharged NB.
and when it comes to clutches, I'm a ***** (blew left knee and broke all 3 leg bones nearly 2 yrs ago)
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Originally Posted by concealer404
Buy an MSPNP Pro, you'll feel better.
Old Dec 12, 2007 | 09:14 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Ben
yes, in droptopdrifter's (unthrottled) supercharged NB.
and when it comes to clutches, I'm a ***** (blew left knee and broke all 3 leg bones nearly 2 yrs ago)
****, I guess I need to buy the clutch you're using.
Old Dec 13, 2007 | 03:17 AM
  #28  
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I quite like my sprung-hub 6 puck clutch, stop and go isn't as smooth as before, but that might also be the ACT prolite flywheel

here's the disk I use btw:
Name:  DSC00697Medium.jpg
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Last edited by Oscar; Dec 13, 2007 at 07:22 AM.
Old Dec 13, 2007 | 03:29 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Ben
I drove an ACT HD 4 puck clutch a few weeks ago. Based on driving it, I wouldn't be afraid of a 6 puck clutch.
Based on what the previous owner told me i have a 6 puck HD in my car. I don't mind it. Grabs great, though i'm not making any real power right now anyway. Very streetable. Makes some noise, but i guess that's part of having a ceramic clutch with heavy PP. That is, if my friction disc even is ceramic.
Old Dec 13, 2007 | 07:15 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by y8s
that's what my tilton twins were originally. I drove it for almost a year like that. holy ***.

also fwiw the kevlar disks also have a lower coeff of friction and like scott said will glaze if you look at them funny. they're for high mileage work vehicles or big rigs.
Yep. I don't know who made the one I had in my '95 Miata, but I had purchased it through FM. Been running the ACT XTSS ever since, and been very happy.

Mark
Old Dec 13, 2007 | 08:17 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by whaaamx5
hustler-also, were they able to sort your problem out or were you sol
no. So I bought a clutch from eip.
Old Dec 13, 2007 | 09:18 AM
  #32  
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I don't track my car... not yet. But in a road racing environment you don't need that kind of lock up anyway since you're not (or most likely not) doing standing starts. I got the cerametallic material because clutchnet said that the cut off for holding power with carbon material was 300ftlbs. - and that wasn't being abusive to it. I'd already had a spec clutch fail on me twice and didn't want to have to do another clutch change from failure, so I went with something that the seller could honestly tell me would manage abuse and power that I plan to put down (if I ever get there). The irony is that it's probably more expensive to tear up your clutch assembly than replace the transmission.

here's some pics of my clutchnet disk- note the spring chambers



And my spec after the second failure. I don't blame spec for this one. It was essentially stick stage3 material on a stage1-2 disk. The disk failed the first time with kevlar material, which wore out to the rivets in 5k miles- that's on a supercharged 1.6 and moderate driving. But it illustrates my concern for having a good foundation for a sprung system.

Old Dec 13, 2007 | 10:14 AM
  #33  
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rob my issue with the cerametallic was that it wore out the flywheel, floater, and pressure plate much faster and on a twin disk that is bad news. it came out in under a year because it started slipping. everything was worn to ****.
Old Dec 13, 2007 | 10:23 AM
  #34  
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good feedback
based on everything so far, i think im still gonna go with the sprung solid organic
Y8S, did you mix and match the springs, is that why they are different colors?
thats what i wanted as well, 3 regular 3 HD...
Old Dec 13, 2007 | 11:32 AM
  #35  
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Question.

Whats the difference between a solid disc and one with pucks, both are sprung?
Old Dec 13, 2007 | 11:35 AM
  #36  
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smooth vs on/off.

since the friction surfaces are more focused, they clamp stronger/faster. therefore, you typically have to relearn (5-minutes) how to drive with one, as you'll refrain from slowly engaging them as you inch forward from a stop.
Old Dec 13, 2007 | 11:39 AM
  #37  
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AH. very interesting.

I noticed clutch net has carbon fiber discs as well, why hasnt that been mentioned in the thread? I am guessing they are in the same league as kevlar with the same problems?
Old Dec 13, 2007 | 11:43 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Saml01
Question.

Whats the difference between a solid disc and one with pucks, both are sprung?
you can get both sprung or unsprung
sprung engages smoother

solid vs pucks-solid is more stock like in engaging while pucks tend to just grip

solid is also easier on the tranny supposedly
Old Dec 13, 2007 | 11:49 AM
  #39  
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organic pucks vs. organic solid... you wouldn't notice a difference except in wear I bet.
Old Dec 13, 2007 | 11:52 AM
  #40  
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I'm running a carbon composite (carbon fiber) clutch disc. the coefficient of friction is somewhere between .5-1.0, which is higher than most. whereas kevlar is less than most. it's also lighter, the less weight the better. so technically a carbon disc would require less pressure to clamp and hold the same torque as a kevlar disc.

if you wanna get really nerdy, the torque capacity equation is fun:

T = N x R x F x P

* T = torque capacity in ft. lbs.
* N = number of friction surfaces
* F = coefficient of friction
* P = lbs. of pressure plate clamp force
* R = radius of gyration in feet

R = (OD + ID) / 4 = Average radius of the disc in mm.
Then convert to ft where 25.4 mm = 1 inch,
12 inches = 1 ft.

eg. a typical 225mm outer diameter disc will have an
R=0.308 ft



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