Zaphod

Nice, looks a tad better this way...

AbeFM

iTrader: (3)

For some reason, I thought this thread was dead!! I need to go catch up, only read the last page.I'll make a separate post for what I wanted to ask!


Fit well for what? You didn't use that on the VVT solenoid, did you?


Interesting fix. Looks like a weatherpak? Totally can't be. I thought you could just bend up the lock tabs on the existing pins, I wonder what was wrong with it.

Zaphod

For the TPS of course... ;-) on the 1.6 TPS.

AbeFM

iTrader: (3)

Ok, so, I think I've decided - there's no reason for me to replace most of my connectors - sure there are some choice bad ones, but by-and-large I just need to do the wiring.

So I want to make up a list of which pins I'll need... And ask you guys if you know of or can recommend a great pin extraction tool. Something that's known to work specifically with these parts.

Digging around with toothpicks and whatnot is great for one or two, but I want to do this right.

Also, what are your opinions on what's worth rewiring? My list (feel free to add/subtract):

Mazda OEM Connectors
TPS
CAM (CMP)
Crank (CPK)
CHT/H20 connector


Non Mazda
ID Injectors (x4)
Toyota COP connectors (x4)
GM AIT
Oil Pressure (thumb screws...)
Oil Temperature
GOOD GROUND


I guess my big question is, what else matters? If the headlight relay has a mediocre wire, do I care? Same for neutral switches, and all the rest. If there's no analog measurement being made, and the car won't blow up if it doesn't work, why fix what ain't broke?

I'd love your opinions on all of this. I was going to rewire the whole car but more I'm just thinking I'll introduce a lot of problems that way, and I don't want to work on the car just to work on it.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

that was the 94-97 TPS connector as listed in this thread fromfrom zaphod. part number 184046-1. The contacts were the stock pins and rubber gasket guys. They were pulled out of the connector at one point for use with a different TB/TPS, and the connector was lost in the suffle after reverting back to stock IM/TB/TPS.

AbeFM

iTrader: (3)

Huh, I thought you'd found the Dash plugs, but now I don't see them on the spreadsheet? Am I misremembering?

Zaphod

Hi Abe, I was away for some days, so I couldn't answer...

On page four of this thread

left connector WPT-278 (page 35)

middle connector WPT-192 (page 30)

right connector WPT-202 (page 35)

http://www.fordtechservice.dealercon...torcatalog.pdf

Motorcraft WPT278 Instrument panel connector male - at instrument cluster - analog plug a - black - 16 leads $54.86 | Auto Parts Tomorrow

I still suspect the OEM ones are outdated YAZAKI connectors...

AbeFM

iTrader: (3)

Thanks, Sven.
Huh, so I wrote Ballenger, both email and pm on here, and couldn't get any answer, Newtech appears to be out of stock on everything... All I want to do is order some darned pins and I feel pretty much helpless to make any progress. Going into business selling harnesses like Cordy was thinking seems to be the way to go.

Anyway, if anyone has an idea where I could get a stack of pins (perhaps Avnet or something).... I guess I just want to know which pins to get then I'd be all set to do my upgrade. Frustrated, I suppose.
-Abe.

cordycord

iTrader: (2)

Digikey and Mouser are the defaults for pins and stuff. If you have the correct part numbers, Digikey almost always has stock.

AbeFM

iTrader: (3)

The pins aren't listed on the spreadsheet that I noticed. Perhaps I should add a column, does anyone feel confident enough to fill it out? :-)

(I noticed different manufacturers of injector harness plugs for the ID injectors use different pins... and there goes my confidence. :-)

Amellrotts

iTrader: (2)

Did we ever find a supplier with the VVT plug? The one on Abes database is out of stockand I don't get the impression they are not going to be stocking it?

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

I got one. I think it was from ballenger or corsa. I forget, it was a while ago and I had a bum load of different orders coming in from different places at that time.

Amellrotts

iTrader: (2)

cool, just good to know its out there! Thanks Leafy

vtjballeng

iTrader: (1)

It is on our list here -> Ballenger Motorsports - High Performance Electronics . We still need to get some updates in place on that list and update the spreadsheet with our product listings. We are working on a application matrix system that should help long term.

Amellrotts

iTrader: (2)

Very nice!!!
Thank you!

vtjballeng

iTrader: (1)

For the above pins question, the pins vary through the harness based on connection, connector series, size etc. There is not a straight universal answer. If you look at our connector kits or pigtails, they break out the terminals and seals per housing so you can buy more of the appropriate ones.

We just moved into a larger facility and this has been a busy time of year. It is very difficult to allocate staff time to all the questions about matching applications and for a single piece here and a single piece there. We try but we do get thousands of similar questions. We are creating the product page and application matrix to work on making this better for all.

I updated the Miata page here with the IAC connection links which are now available. We have some more connections for the Miata in stock and we just need to update accordingly.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Hmm I believe some of the pins in the car may be non-standard sumitomo. The female pins for my coil connectors were too large and didn't fit well over the male pins in the coils and you could see the burntness on the pins from arcing. They needed to be closed down smaller.

vtjballeng

iTrader: (1)

I think this is as good a place as any to address part of that. The concept that there is a standard Sumitomo terminal is somewhat misplaced. Some are more common in some applications vs another but there is no standard. There are dozens of series which have unique features in the connector bodies and terminals and within each series, there may be 4 or more size options which are not interchangeable. The resulting matrix has thousands of options.

So, for example, even if a manufacturer chooses a particular Sumitomo series to represent a set of components on their vehicle, you may find examples that are 1.0mm blade width sealed or unsealed, 2.3mm blade width sealed or unsealed, 4.8mm blade width sealed or unsealed etc each of which is chosen based on the current requirements and sealing requirements.

As far as the coils, stock coils and the Toyota COPs have the same male terminal blades though those two connectors vary in series and female mates. If you are seeing arcing, it is very unlikely to be based on a lack of contact based on the terminals contact thickness as they are both spring elements that close further than the thickness of the male terminal blades assuming you don't have excessive fretting and wear. A more likely scenario is that the terminals aren't fully seated and/or the connector housing isn't fully seated causing arcing towards the tip of the terminal. If you send over detailed, in focus pictures with good lighting we should be able to see the issue and perhaps help out. Arcing indicates you aren't making full contact and aren't getting full power to your coils and should definitely be resolved.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Not toyota COPs, 01+ miata coils in my case. Its like the sumitomo pins which I had in this case were for a thicker male pin than what was present in the coils. After closing the pins down a bit with a pick you can no longer wiggle the connector and cause a misfire.

vtjballeng

iTrader: (1)

That is not good. There is only one terminal thickness option for the male blade which is 0.64mm thick. The Sumitomo terminals are made for the application. All female / socket terminals wear their spring elements out over time and can generally be bent or damaged in various ways (which is sounds like has happened here). They should be tight from the get-go. We have an 01+ here in the shop and it is normal and has a tight fit. The terminals are in current production and used in crazy high quantities without issue.

I would recommend you replace the terminals and make sure you don't insert anything into the terminal. Just crimp it then seat it in the housing and go.

Here is a chart to validate your crimp. It is possible with a very bad crimp to damage a female terminal.