I'm getting a leak out of my diff and one of the axles is throwing grease so I'd like to replace the seals and maybe both axles while I'm in there.

I have a 92 but I believe the rear and the trans were swapped. It has the pinion damper and no stub axles - all the research I've done so far show axles with stub axles and either a one piece - two piece half shaft. I read that possibly 99+ cars used a single piece without a stub? Is this what I have here? What can I replace these with?

Any good sources on reman'd or new axles?

Thanks!

Pics:

 

1.8 diff, which means someone who knew what they were doing owned the car before you. You can buy the boots and fresh grease from Mazda for a lot less than a fresh axle costs.

 

The one piece axles appeared mid-95. http://solomiata.com/Drivetrain.html

--Ian

 

excellent. i was told it has a guru torsen in it, but i haven't opened it up to confirm yet.

one of my mechanic friends said you needed a special tool to stretch the boots on - or maybe only on certain cars? is it a relatively straightforward procedure and aside from axle seals anything else i should replace while doing this? (axle nut if i have to take that off?)
thanks!

Thank you! So anything 96+ should be ok according to this:
Starting with cars with build dates during March of 1995 (according to the interchange book it was VIN 14193), Mazda introduced a single piece half-shaft, gone was the stub shaft. The single piece half-shafts were typically used on Torsen equipped rears starting 3/95 but by the 1996 model year they were all that was used.

 

Actually, all 1.8 axles (except MSM axles) are freely interchangeable. You can replace one-piece axles with two-piece axles and vise-versa. That said, the CV joints on the Miata are an uncommon failure point, and I can't imagine needing to replace them. If the CV boot is torn, just disassemble, clean, re-grease, and back to work.

Also, it's fairly easy to remove the axle from the car without separating it from the hub- you just remove the brake caliper and then the bolts which hold the hub to the control arms. If anything, it's probably easier this way.