DIY frame rail reinforcement...
05-19-2008, 01:02 PM
#22
Hit the nail on the head here. While these aluminum rails might do something, they certainly won't provide the same rigidity as the FM rails. You really need a hat-shaped section in order to attach top the floor, rather than a C-shaped channel. Remember...the end goal should be closed sections.
Reply
0
0
. Damn structural engineering.
05-19-2008, 01:52 PM
#24
I see where you are going with this, but I think the fact that each "half" is tied together benefits you too much to not go with a couple of hat-shaped sections like the FM ones. Wouldn't be that expensive to have a metal fab place shear them up and put them in a brake for four bends. Plus, the will likely be lower weight as well, even without the cutouts on the FM ones. Hell, you can probably hole saw some holes if you want to lower the weight. They are probably saving 2 lbs is all. Bolted wide through the floor is key here.
Reply
0
0
05-19-2008, 02:29 PM
#25
Good to see another structural engineer here. I do structural forensics for a living.
Reply
0
0
05-19-2008, 02:45 PM
#26
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: San Diego to LA, CA
Posts: 297
Total Cats: 0
Well, they are more resistant to LTB, but they can exhibit that failure mode, especially with highly slender, nonuniform elements. I can show you some photos of it happening if you like
Good to see another structural engineer here. I do structural forensics for a living.
Good to see another structural engineer here. I do structural forensics for a living.
also, you have a PM
Reply
0
0
05-19-2008, 05:07 PM
#31
Elite Member
iTrader: (24)
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Woodland Hills, CA
Posts: 4,667
Total Cats: 18
ah screw you guys.... every week you disappoint me by making good **** from useless crap :/
kind of makes me want to hang myself for spending all that precious $$ :/
kind of makes me want to hang myself for spending all that precious $$ :/
Reply
0
0
05-19-2008, 06:12 PM
#32
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Ventura, CA.
Posts: 220
Total Cats: 0
What exactly did that entail?
I can see some grinder work and perhaps some hammering. Was it that the rail was slightly wider than the track in the bracing, or was your rail uneven down it's length and you just smoothed it out.
How did you hurt your frame rails that bad in the first place?
What is the width of the rack you're using?
Do you think that these braces would "slip" over an unmolested frame rail?
What would be ideal is if the brace .001" wider than the rail and you would simply tap it up into place with a rubber mallet. Rigging up a crossbrace would be a really simple proposition.
Is there any dramatic difference in the undercarriage between the years. I know FM's brace is "universal", but is there anything to consider along those lines?
I can see some grinder work and perhaps some hammering. Was it that the rail was slightly wider than the track in the bracing, or was your rail uneven down it's length and you just smoothed it out.
How did you hurt your frame rails that bad in the first place?
What is the width of the rack you're using?
Do you think that these braces would "slip" over an unmolested frame rail?
What would be ideal is if the brace .001" wider than the rail and you would simply tap it up into place with a rubber mallet. Rigging up a crossbrace would be a really simple proposition.
Is there any dramatic difference in the undercarriage between the years. I know FM's brace is "universal", but is there anything to consider along those lines?
...also the rails had a whole bunch of spray undercoating on them (I shipped the car over from Hawaii) 2. Yes they would just slip over if they haden't been so bent outta shape. Light tapping with a rubber mallet worked on another miata that did same project.
3. Pretty sure the undercarriage is similar...the only thing to watch out for is fuel + brake lines.
Reply
0
0
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Zaphod
MEGAsquirt
47
10-26-2018 11:00 PM
