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Old 01-05-2009, 02:49 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by JayL View Post
I didn't even think about the tubing for the bar. It's a boss frog clearview maxx so I will have to take some more measurements, but I planned on having a full cage done if I can keep it somewhat street friendly. Let me know your email address and I can send you the 08 rule book. It's 1.83 mb so it isn't too big.

That would be awesome mdecesaro @ gmail.com


And a lot of bars are 1.5" so definitely double check. Also, although my track will never check this, there are also wall thickness specs. I really don't think that will be checked until you are into the 10s.

Its possible to make a street able cage, but don't bother if you aren't going to go behind the dash. Prime example, the Hard Dog cages. The bars are in front of the dash, leaving you with broken knees if you ever get in a side impact. Check out Mazda Miata Roll Cage and Racing Supplies and how they run the dash bars behind the dash for tons of leg space, and the front down tubes on the door sill for lots of leg room as well. Unfortunately those cages are only 1.5" so they aren't NHRA legal, but it will give you some ideas. You can get away with one door bar, as long as it passes between the shoulder and elbow. Hard Dogs bolt in door bars will not work for this either.

Originally Posted by JayL View Post
I'm specifically curious about what is available for a flywheel shieldQUOTE]

Me too. I thought about ballistic cloths, but decided against, since it might heat up the transmission.
Thats what I may end up doing. If you bolt it to the trans tunnel it should be fine for temps, but I'm not sure if the bottom has to be covered too.

There is tons of stupid little stuff too.. Like steel valve stems lol
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