Dyno-Re-tune results
 

I just got back from the re-tunning my car up at Synapse Motorsport in NY. We tuned my car on 93 pump gas for the street as well as a C16 Race tune.

The goal was to try and get a more usable power band out of my engine through cam timing adjustments and tuning the crack pressure on my AEM tru-boost.

Well after playing with the cam gears, we were only able to shift the power about 250rpm sooner. Most of you know that i have really big cams, and they just have to much overlap to try and get the power to come on sooner.

But none the less, the car makes some fucking power.

Pump gas= 395whp 282 ftlbs @ 18psi

Race gas= 462whp 330ftlbs @23 psi

(old tune on C12 = 418whp 287 ftlbs @18psi)

I dont have my graphs yet, waiting on the tunner to email them to me.Should have them tomorrow.

The issue that kept me from pushing a little more boost was my ignition (toyota cop) starting breaking up with more boost that 23psi @ high rpm. Im running as wasted spark. I dont know if that is hurting it alot. Plugs are gapped at .025

All in all im happy, 462hp is more than any miata needs.


Then i come home and go to start my other laptop that it was tuned on and i get a lovely screen that says "NO BOOTABLE DEVICES". So im gonna be so pissed if i lost my fucking tunes.(edit- loose hard drive. all is well again lol)

Do you have the old dyno graph?
When you get the new one I can overlay them for you if you would like.

Yeah i have the old one, that would be awesome.

Never mind about the computer issue. Hard drive came loose in transport. All good again.

LOL, jesus man. Any new videos of this thing since the re-tune? Sounds like you just proved cops are fine for 400+whp.

Great numbers, congrats. I can't wait to see the graph. Do you have a build thread? What turbo are you running?

I gotta look at them, i dont think i got any vid of the good runs. I was more into learning and tweaking today. Yeah for factory coil packs they hold up well. I dont know if the wasted spark is not letting them recover fast enough even though i have the capacitor in place. I dont feel like putting more into the setup, i just wanna drive




https://www.miataturbo.net/general-m...drifter-17881/

OK time for my ride now...

Awesome numbers

............seriously

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1369803680

Very nice numbers, needs video.
How did the cam timing turn out? Which cam, how many degrees, sooner/later?

We advanced the exhaust cam about 5 degrees. This helped out the mid range a bit and shifted the power about 250 rpm sooner. I was hoping for better results witht the cam timing, but they are just so big that the cam gears can only do so much as far as over lap goes.

My cams have been talked about in a bunch of cam threads. I think my intake cam has to much duration for any turbo setup really. But i still think that cams are worth the money. If i had a 282 cam instead of the 295 cam i have in the intake right now, i would have alot better power curve.

I will try to get the graphs up today

It sounds like you need to send some money over to webcam to get something new. This car would be pretty sweet to see at some point. I'm sure we'll run into each other eventually with you being an hour away.

I'm surprised you went to NY to dyno, I know there's a few good shops in your area. Shit, one of them has a dyna pack and does miatas IRRC, I want to say randy hall is the guy but I could be remembering wrong. They have the other half of the flatout motorsports dyna pack, because its cheaper to buy an awd dyna pack and an extra computer station than to buy 2 2wd dyna packs.

At this point I'm done spending money on this car so the cams I have will stay in. I just like the guys at synapse, they charge me very fairly and are great to work with. They built my turbo manifold and piping so I'm happy with their work. And they let me work on the car and make decisions a lot of tuning shops won't let you be right next to the car when they are tuning.

Yeah Randy has a shop in Old Saybrook, but I dont think he actually does any dyno tuning work...and he sure as hell isn't experienced in megasquirt or high hp miatas for that matter. I know a few of his former employees and based on what they have said, I wouldn't be interested.

But all you need is a dyno. It shouldnt matter if the shop specializes in horse drawn buggies as long as the dyno works and they under stand when you tell them to have the dyno hold you at a certain rpm... unless you cant tune for yourself...

Yeah that is assuming you tune it yourself. Pretty sure he had it tuned by someone else.

I NEED to dyno tune

YARRR, still no graphs. I know my tuner was doing driving instruction at Limerock today. Maybe he will send them tomorrow ?

Your dyno operator isn't Australian is he?

No,???

Is this still running the MS1 I built for you long ago?

Yup, still going strong. i think the one thing i would have liked would be the bigger maps of the ms3. 12x12 is pretty tight when your boosting to 280kpa and 8000rpm. And i would have like to put in ID1000's but they came out a few months after i bought all my fuel stuff.

Im only running like 63% duty on the precision 880s

MS1 ftw! In for dyno graphs.

My race and pump tune+ my old race tune

Great peak power. Not so great powerband. 200tq @ 5k yikes

Old race tune vs New race tune:
Attachment 185383

Race tune vs pump gas tune:
Attachment 185384

Thanks FTB! , unfortunately I'm not gonna get more mid range with the cams I have and a gt 3071r. It's the nature of the beast. Knowing what I know now, I would have told integral different goals. When I ordered cams I told them my specs and sent them my flow sheets and have them a hp goal and a redline of 9k . My fault for doing that, also keep in mind that there was no gtx or EFR turbos when I started the build. So there are alot of things I would have done differently if I started over right now. But I'm happy it's still a beast

damn what's the boost curve like? that top end is insane o_O TQ rising all the way to redline lol

I'll have to look at my data logs again but if I recall, I'm hitting full boost around 5k

I can tell that. But for TQ to keep rising past 5k you either have some wild cams or your boost is creeping.

Boost is solid

Also the runner length on the intake mani is tuned to 6500-9000, it's hard to fit longer runners without bending them. But that's the rpm range that the hermholts frequencys calculated out to

What are the specs on your cams?

Advertised duration
295 intake
282 exhaust

Lift
.490 intake
.455 exhaust

Don't quote me on them. That's off the top of my head . When I get home I will edit this with more specs

That is a GOD DAMN CAM!

Aren't you concerned about motor longevity? They seem more like cams that would be best for drag racing, some other short sprint racing, or for a racer with deep pockets. Edit: Or for a motor with more cubes.

I bet it sounds glorious. :drool:

Well it's a race car, but I have no real concerns. It would make a hell of a drag engine. I built the car for serious drifting, so when it's on the race tune at the track it's for less than two min at a clip. But it's registered so I do drive it on the street from time to time

Man it definitely would make for a screamin drag car.

You should hit the drag strip at least once and see what it will put down.

That's how I blew my diff last year lol , ran a 14.2 @121 . Couldn't launch for shit with street tires and 4.10s, I may go back later in the year but I need to make new lexan windows

now way HHAHHAAHAHHAHAHH 14.2 @ 121 is hilarious did you spin literally the whole way?

i was bogging down, trying to launch in 2nd (4.10s + 6spd) and slip the clutch. should have just launched in 1st and let it spin. But i broke before i could try. 1st was so so short before the 3.636's. The power hits so hard at 6k that 1st is almost not there

People get better numbers thanuyou expected so It must be a aussie dyno guy thing?

??

Not sure what that means. I never expected OP to get lower numbers than he did. His build/setup is pretty extreme.

You missed the joke.

Sure did.

Instant mid range :-)

http://www.zex.com/zx/turbo-nitrous-system.html

Seriously thinking about it

And... The nitrous is purchased

oh snap hahaha

WINNING!!

Don't blow the welds off the intake manifold
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1371060443

Lol, that could happen. It should be relatively safe. Gonna run a 45 shot and it shuts off it the boost level I set. I'm thinking 12-15 psi. This should thicken up the midrange a bit. And it only runs at wot

did you post a plot?

Yeah look back a page or two

I am thinking you should set the nitrous cut to about 30 psi. That way it never shuts off. :dealwithit:

allofit

allthetime

do it

I would like to keep my $10000 engine intact

You have ten thousand dollars into that motor?

holy shit.

That makes complete sense. Thats about double what my engine cost, and its full of non-baller but still capable parts. AND if he paid for assembly here in New England that makes total sense. I got quoted 5-6grand for a stockish rebuild from multiple places around here that were recommended to me by miata shops as people who know how to build miata engines. Which is why I ended up with a built engine from trackspeed for the same money. I could totally see a carbon copy of my engine costing 8 grand in New England, change to more expensive rods and pistons, throw in SUBs and mild port work and you've hit 10 grand. What I learned from all of that is next time I'm building my own damn engine. :rofl:

Well that's what I'm getting at, I have 6k in parts in my long block. But I had the benefit of working in a machine shop and building/ machining my own shit. Add on my turbo setup and intake mani and stuff and your at 10k my cost . More like 15k if I had to pay a machinist



EDIT- more like 4500 in long block parts

Damn guys. Guess I have not really researched building a serious motor like that. I was assuming pistons + rods + bearings + oil pump + headstuds/hardware + machine work + assembly.

or you can be a cheapskate like me!

$500 used wiseco pistons and eagle rods
$200 used boundary pump
$60 used main studs
$180 head, intake, throttle body from junk yard
$120 new head studs
$120 new rings
$150 new bearings
$320 machine work

actually, damn that's still about $1700 before all the little things ;_;

rought breakdown (aprox prices)

weisco pistons $550
carrillo rods $700
Miata roadster pump gears $300
ATI balancer $500
ARP main studs $80
Gasket set $175
bearings $125
ARP head studs $125
Supertech valve train $500 (valves,springs,retainers,seats)
Bronze guides $60
Integral billet cams $700
Fidanza cam gears $225
Gates belt and timing shit+ water pump $250
Shim under buckets $250
lash caps $100


Now think of machine with involved

strip + clean
shot peen block
line hone
bore and hone cyl
deck
balance rotating assembly
gap rings
race port + polish
race valve job
install and size bronze guides
setup SUB
machine clearance for cams to spin
blueprinting and assembly

put together a boost plot based off a data log from the dyno

At least your plots aren't like a supras.
I would think you'd want a better power curve for drifting though. I know most the time your in high rpms but what about those corners where it's too fast for 2nd but to show for 3rd? especially with the 3.63s.

Not bashing the build or anything. I agree that you way want to go a little less ALLOFIT on the cams.

What's the price of c16 where you're at by the way?

im paying $95 for a 5 gal pale. So like $18-$19 a gallon.

yeah i agree that i need more low/mid power. When i built the motor i didnt think it would be an issue. But after my 1st event i realized that i was wrong. I dont wanna be shifting all the time to keep it in the power band. This is why i have the nitrous coming to give it a big boost down low.