Sure did.

Instant mid range :-)

http://www.zex.com/zx/turbo-nitrous-system.html

Seriously thinking about it

And... The nitrous is purchased

oh snap hahaha

WINNING!!

Don't blow the welds off the intake manifold
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1371060443

Lol, that could happen. It should be relatively safe. Gonna run a 45 shot and it shuts off it the boost level I set. I'm thinking 12-15 psi. This should thicken up the midrange a bit. And it only runs at wot

did you post a plot?

Yeah look back a page or two

I am thinking you should set the nitrous cut to about 30 psi. That way it never shuts off. :dealwithit:

allofit

allthetime

do it

I would like to keep my $10000 engine intact

You have ten thousand dollars into that motor?

holy shit.

That makes complete sense. Thats about double what my engine cost, and its full of non-baller but still capable parts. AND if he paid for assembly here in New England that makes total sense. I got quoted 5-6grand for a stockish rebuild from multiple places around here that were recommended to me by miata shops as people who know how to build miata engines. Which is why I ended up with a built engine from trackspeed for the same money. I could totally see a carbon copy of my engine costing 8 grand in New England, change to more expensive rods and pistons, throw in SUBs and mild port work and you've hit 10 grand. What I learned from all of that is next time I'm building my own damn engine. :rofl:

Well that's what I'm getting at, I have 6k in parts in my long block. But I had the benefit of working in a machine shop and building/ machining my own shit. Add on my turbo setup and intake mani and stuff and your at 10k my cost . More like 15k if I had to pay a machinist



EDIT- more like 4500 in long block parts

Damn guys. Guess I have not really researched building a serious motor like that. I was assuming pistons + rods + bearings + oil pump + headstuds/hardware + machine work + assembly.

or you can be a cheapskate like me!

$500 used wiseco pistons and eagle rods
$200 used boundary pump
$60 used main studs
$180 head, intake, throttle body from junk yard
$120 new head studs
$120 new rings
$150 new bearings
$320 machine work

actually, damn that's still about $1700 before all the little things ;_;

rought breakdown (aprox prices)

weisco pistons $550
carrillo rods $700
Miata roadster pump gears $300
ATI balancer $500
ARP main studs $80
Gasket set $175
bearings $125
ARP head studs $125
Supertech valve train $500 (valves,springs,retainers,seats)
Bronze guides $60
Integral billet cams $700
Fidanza cam gears $225
Gates belt and timing shit+ water pump $250
Shim under buckets $250
lash caps $100


Now think of machine with involved

strip + clean
shot peen block
line hone
bore and hone cyl
deck
balance rotating assembly
gap rings
race port + polish
race valve job
install and size bronze guides
setup SUB
machine clearance for cams to spin
blueprinting and assembly

put together a boost plot based off a data log from the dyno

At least your plots aren't like a supras.
I would think you'd want a better power curve for drifting though. I know most the time your in high rpms but what about those corners where it's too fast for 2nd but to show for 3rd? especially with the 3.63s.

Not bashing the build or anything. I agree that you way want to go a little less ALLOFIT on the cams.

What's the price of c16 where you're at by the way?

im paying $95 for a 5 gal pale. So like $18-$19 a gallon.

yeah i agree that i need more low/mid power. When i built the motor i didnt think it would be an issue. But after my 1st event i realized that i was wrong. I dont wanna be shifting all the time to keep it in the power band. This is why i have the nitrous coming to give it a big boost down low.