Might be a stupid question, but I sheered off a bolt in my flywheel, drilled it out, and I'm trying to use an easy out to remove the bolt, but the easyout just turns and turns and turns without moving the bolt.

Any tips on how to make it grab the bolt?

Thank you!

 

Did you

A: use the right size bit?

B: drill deep enough that it isn't bottoming out?

C: Tap it in with a hammer to get it to bite before trying to turn it?

I'm guessing one of these things, probably C.

 

A: Using an easy out and drill set, so they should be sized correctly.

B: Drilled all the way through.

C: Didn't use a hammer, didn't know I should. Thanks. ^_^

C revisited: Still didn't work... am I supposed to just tap it or whack it?

 

A little harder than tapping it, but don't wack it. Try using another size easy out, probably slightly bigger. Just don't break it.

 

Depending on the size, {I'm guessing approximately 1/4-3/8 hole, can't remember the # of the tool) a couple of taps like you are starting a nail with a hammer. Start light. If it doesn't bite, hit it a bit harder next time. If you hit it squarely, you won't have problems.

 

just don't snap the damn "easy" out...

 

If the ezy out breaks you can ram it out from the back side,Then step up in size.If it i totally fubard take it to a machine shop and have them remove,Cheeper than a new Fly wheel.What we would do is1. fixture the wheel where it will not move 2.Pick up the true center of the hole not the bolt3.Step drill until the only thing left is the threads of the bolt wound up like a spring in the hole 4. pull out like a Heli-coil w/ pliers5. chase the threads to clean out the remnants.Machinists remove more broken bolts than almost any other Workorder it seems
-G-

 

If you have a mig, I suggest you weld a nut to the broken stud.

 

Alright, I managed to get it out by upsizing to the next bigger easy out, giving it a good tap and then turning as hard as I could...

Then it snapped. While turning. I don't really have much upper arm strength, what are these things made out of, glass?

Luckily, I was able to turn the rest of the bolt with a big plier! Yay! Now just to reattach the clutch and put in the transmission...
Thanks everyone!

 

I win!

No they're not made of glass, just very hard, and therefore brittle, metal. I believe they're a cheap form of carbide. That's why it sucks to break one off, because the highest us machinists can generally go is carbide, and since the easy out is already carbide, we can't drill through it, so the only option is an EDM machine. It's what I use for broken taps as well. Idiotic engineers keep designing new parts with a 2" blind threaded hole.

 

You are one lucky Mother ******!If you couldnt have drilled that ez out=machine shop visit.Good luck on the rest of the clutch."Idiotic engineers keep designing new parts with a 2" blind threaded hole"+ 1000 It will probably be a 2-56 in 4140,2" deep
G-

 

Well, now I know not to torque the clutch bolts down with 125psi... >.>;

Rest of the clutch is on, waiting for a guy friend to come over to help lift the transmission. Thanks again.

 

The torque ratings for all rotating assembly parts are very important. This goes for pressure plate, flywheel, crankshaft main caps, connecting rods, and pulleys.

 

Why is the torque rating for the flywheel bolts important? I don't understand how that could cause a failure of any kind, torquing them a bit higher.

That's good advice though, thank you again Curly.

 

The highter torque rating will stretch the bolt or dform the flywheel until the bolt will be difficult to remove,or warp the flywheel.
-G-

 

I looked up EDM machine, but what's a blind threaded hole? Didn't find any result for that on google.

 

A blind hole doesn't go through the part. Because of this, you need to use a spiral flute tap, so the chips from cutting the threads are moved upwards out of the hole, instead of bunching up below the tap. These spiral fluted taps are notoriously weak and easy to snap.

As Reverend Greg said, torquing a bolt is stretching it towards the end of its elastic range, so the 'springiness' of the bolt keeps it from backing out. Tightening it past this will pull the bolt into it's plastic range, at which point it will not spring back to it's original length. You will also risk pushing it past it's ultimate strength, which is when it begins to neck down, and shortly after it will reach it's yield point and snap. I may have ultimate/yield point definitions backwards though.

 

a hole with threds all the way to the bottom,I.e. not a through hole.theproblem arises when the tap nears the bottom and chips jam the tap.By hand not that big of a deal,when you have 1000 parts and youare running the tap under power=Big problem.Hardned material is even worse.
-G-

 

Electric Discharge for the win.

We use that **** for work and its the best thing ever invented.

 

You bet. We have three wire EDM and four sinker EDM machines at work ourselves.