Ok so ive been searching for weeks on this topic and im so over coming up with no leads so can someone please explain this, because the stock water pump is ugly and in the way.

97 1.8

 

Ugly, and in the way? It works perfectly fine.

 

oh boy here we go.
another retard

 

I recall someone doing a reverse-flow electric pump conversion several years ago, however this is by no means a common modification on the Mazda B-series engine. Empirically speaking, the stock water pump has proven to be extraordinarily reliable, and entirely adequate to support proper cooling at power levels sufficient to destroy the transmission and break the engine block.

In other words, if you decide to install an electric water pump, you are on your own. There is no community knowledge-base for this.


In the way of what, exactly?

 

Hahahhaha

Oh wait, you're serious. 0/10

 

Op didn't google. http://www.daviescraig.com.au/Electr...s-content.aspx remote water pump, took less then one minute.

 

The guy with the black NA that drag races it has an electric water pump if I'm not mistaken. I think it's pretty cool. He has Webbers too I think

 

That would be me.

 

 

Ah there it is, I always thought that setup was really cool. Dumb question, but is it on a toggle switch or something or is it on all the time when the key is on?

 

Another dumb question, but how/where does it flow through the radiator? It look like from pictures it goes mixing manifold>water pump>back of head?

 

I run it on a toggle switch. I keep it off at initial start up, and then cycle it on and off till the water warms up.

The pump has two outlets. The one on the bottom goes to the bottom radiator fitting. The one on top goes to the heater.

I am redoing all the plumbing when I get the motor back in. There were a few design flaws that I need to fix. I plan to have water enter both the front and rear of the head.

 

I love electric water pump, theory is great, you run a PWM pump, so it is controlled by ECU. say you want 200F water temp, slow pump till you get to 200F, then fast if you hit 201F. this way, temperature is constant...

great idea, will probably build one later.

 

Is that -10 on the top and -12 on the bottom? I personally have always been very interested in how you did it. If you ever get a chance I'd like to see more pictures of your setup.

 

The top is 8 or 10....can't remember. The bottom one you see is a 12. You could simply have a barb on the pump and put on a radiator hose instead. I wanted a baller look and chose the braided line.

Since it is not very visable, the bottom is a simple 90 degree radiator hose. I chose the pump location for easy simple installation and to have the shortest run possble for plumbing. Turbo cars may need to have the pump on the other side of the motor. I have seen this on a big turbo Miata before.

If you look closely, you will see that the old mechanical pump is still there. I simply pressed out out the impeller and welded a cap where the shaft exists the housing. I think with some applications, you could simply reuse the old water hose barb. I wanted a cleaner look, so I cut it off and welded an AN fitting.

 

I am a fan of SS lines and AN fittings so if I ever did it like yours, it would also be baller SS stuff. Not cheap hose barbs lol. Is the pump quiet or loud?

 

The pump is absolutely silent. It is hard to tell it is running without pulling the cap and looking to see circulating water.

 

What advantages did you find?

Are you running reverse flow?

 

The system will end up oscillating between slow and fast due to too much lag between speeding up the pump, then temps at the engine outlet finally dropping.

Better to proportionally go from very slow to max, over a 10* span. Better yet, controller also looks at radiator outlet temp as a part of its algorithm. And injector duty cycle

 

I did it to make more power. You can also cool the car quicker by running it with the engine off.

I did reverse the flow.