Electrons vs. molecules: Electric Power Steering Conversion - Page 3 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 05-10-2013, 02:33 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Godless Commie View Post
Yes, but pump pressure is pretty much standard across the automotive industry.
Both the stock Miata pump and this one deliver about 85 bars, which is roughly 1200-1250 psi.
Simply reduce the voltage going to it or make a little bypass valve to spit some of the fluid back into the reservoir to release pressure.
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Old 05-10-2013, 02:47 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by Joe Perez View Post
You are fortunate that the NBs do not conjoin the clutch and neutral wiring like the NAs did- they come into the ECU on two discrete lines.
Unfortunately, this is not true on all 99-00 NBs. Some still have the clutch and neutral switch on 1 wire.
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Old 05-10-2013, 02:48 PM   #43
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Mine are emancipated...
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Old 05-10-2013, 02:50 PM   #44
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Mine are emancipated...
And you have made the proclamation of it.
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Old 05-10-2013, 03:20 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by Reverant View Post
Unfortunately, this is not true on all 99-00 NBs. Some still have the clutch and neutral switch on 1 wire.
Huh, that sucks. Is this a Euro-specific thing? (I only have the wiring diagrams for the Canada / US models.)
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Old 05-10-2013, 03:21 PM   #46
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Originally Posted by Godless Commie View Post
I'm afraid I have not made my concern sufficiently clear about winter months.
What I was trying to say is, I would like the pump to be off till the engine starts. That way, I would not be draining precious current from the battery before cranking the car.
Ah, well there you go. Looks like you've got a fine setup, then.
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Old 05-10-2013, 03:37 PM   #47
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I can verify that the Euro (and actual JDM) have a single wire.

I have also seen at least one USDM card with 1 wire.
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Old 05-10-2013, 03:39 PM   #48
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Originally Posted by Godless Commie View Post
Please take a look at the output settings and tell me if I have this right guys..

Basically, I want the pump off while cranking, and only come on about 5 seconds after the engine fires, and if the RPM is greater than 600.

This output will be connected to the "-" side of the relay trigger. Relay trigger "+" will be taken from IGN.

EDIT: whoops.... second condition at the bottom should read "seconds > 5.0" I will correct that.

Your settings look correct, except for the seconds issue of course.

Btw the "Seconds" variable is how long the MS is powered, not how long the engine has been running.

I've asked the devs to add a "running time" variable but they didn't like it.
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Old 05-10-2013, 03:56 PM   #49
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Awesome thread. I wish you could do this with a/c as well :(. I think you'd need a 300amp alternator though...hah... anyway good work sir!
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Old 05-10-2013, 04:00 PM   #50
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It's a shame that the ASE timer isn't accessible here- that would provide a usable workaround.
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Old 05-10-2013, 04:12 PM   #51
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Awesome thread. I wish you could do this with a/c as well :(. I think you'd need a 300amp alternator though...hah... anyway good work sir!
Well the ac is clutch activated so it doesnt matter.
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Old 05-10-2013, 04:13 PM   #52
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Well the ac is clutch activated so it doesnt matter.
More along the lines of. I wanna put a no compromise turbo manifold in and still have AC, so the ac compressor needs to go somewhere else.
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Old 05-10-2013, 04:21 PM   #53
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Run top mount and cut the frame like fae
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Old 05-10-2013, 04:23 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leafy View Post
More along the lines of. I wanna put a no compromise turbo manifold in and still have AC, so the ac compressor needs to go somewhere else.
First thought: Seriously? In a Miata?

Second thought: For real?

Third thought: Just buy a household window-style air conditioner and strip it down to the bare compressor. Install a suitably sized 120v inverter in the car, and use it to drive the compressor.

Fourth thought: Since you are clearly of baller-status what with your air-conditioned convertible and all, you can probably afford to plunk down the cash for a marine-grade DC powered aircon system: http://www.dometic.com/enus/Americas...ctdataid=80905
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Old 05-10-2013, 04:39 PM   #55
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Since I did not have the time to take pics during the install, I felt like I need to explain how I actually mounted the pump.

So, here we go.. (Hardware in pics is not actual stuff, it's all for illustrative purposes)

Here is the clamp I was talking about. The MDF board I cut and drilled is the car's chassis in this case.



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Electrons vs. molecules: Electric Power Steering Conversion-20130510215803.jpg   Electrons vs. molecules: Electric Power Steering Conversion-20130510215834.jpg  
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Old 05-10-2013, 04:41 PM   #56
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The bolt is installed from the bottom of the sheetmetal/chassis, and two nuts are used to secure the bolt to the chassis, and then the clamp on it.


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Electrons vs. molecules: Electric Power Steering Conversion-20130510220014.jpg   Electrons vs. molecules: Electric Power Steering Conversion-20130510220102.jpg  
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Old 05-10-2013, 04:43 PM   #57
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Then, it's a matter of substituting long enough 6mm bolts (or allthread in my case) to reinforce the installed clamp against torsional loads. Nuts are used at all contact points to lock the whole thing up.

This makes for an incredibly solid mount. I used three of these, and I am content.



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Electrons vs. molecules: Electric Power Steering Conversion-20130510221356.jpg   Electrons vs. molecules: Electric Power Steering Conversion-20130510221405.jpg   Electrons vs. molecules: Electric Power Steering Conversion-20130510221449.jpg  
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Old 05-10-2013, 04:51 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Perez View Post
First thought: Seriously? In a Miata?

Second thought: For real?

Third thought: Just buy a household window-style air conditioner and strip it down to the bare compressor. Install a suitably sized 120v inverter in the car, and use it to drive the compressor.

Fourth thought: Since you are clearly of baller-status what with your air-conditioned convertible and all, you can probably afford to plunk down the cash for a marine-grade DC powered aircon system: products - Dometic
For real...

I too am planning on installing AC in my car. There are days in summer when the sun just fries you, and the car feels like an oven if the top is up, in stop and go traffic. It's no picnic sitting in traffic covered in sweat.
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Old 05-10-2013, 04:53 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reverant View Post
Btw the "Seconds" variable is how long the MS is powered, not how long the engine has been running.

I've asked the devs to add a "running time" variable but they didn't like it.
Damn...
Oh well, I'll just plug in 20 seconds in there then.. That'll give me plenty time, I hope.

Rev, please spoonfeed me.. What terminal is the #1 output on please?
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Old 05-10-2013, 04:59 PM   #60
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Originally Posted by Godless Commie View Post
For real...

I too am planning on installing AC in my car.
Yes, but you live in Turkey, where it actually gets hot from time to time.

Leafy lives in Massachusetts, where the average summertime peak temperatures are in the upper 70s (F) / mid 20s (C).
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