Finally some progress!
 

http://img340.imageshack.us/img340/9894/copplatezt8.jpg

I'll finish up tomorrow. :bigtu:

uh nice sharpie work. real men use prussian blue.

Progress indeed.

So how did they catch you?

how much i want one too

fuckers
that's big news for my little town, notice how big the paper was today?

black was the first sharpie I found in the tool bag, but I actually have an assortment

didn't finish because I wanted to cut the COPs holes out on a drill press. So gonna go to my dad's tomorrow AM to bust that out.

SOL, I got material for 2, assuming I'd mis-align something on the first try. I'll let you know how it works out.

http://img519.imageshack.us/img519/9...pplate1dv8.jpg
http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/4...pplate2nn3.jpg
http://img401.imageshack.us/img401/2...pplate3ov3.jpg

The plate is made from 1/8" aluminum. It's drilled to bolt down to the cam cover from the existing 3 cam cover bolts. I used a hole saw on a drill press to remove the aluminum where the COPs fit through. The COPs are secured to the plate with 1/4"-20 studs that I cut out of a stick of allthread. I drilled and tapped the aluminum plate, and screwed the studs in and secured with a little thread locker. The bottom side was ground flat so the studs don't stick past the plate. The studs were all cut to exact size, and I used a nickel plated acorn nut on top that pretty closely matches the other cam cover bolts. I wanted chrome, but nickel plated was the best the ACE had. To finish it off, I cut a small section of rubber fuel hose to fit on each stud between the plate and the coil.

My little neice came to visit, so I didn't get to wire them up today. Maybe tomorrow.

What's the advantage of this? Are you rigging something up to do sequential ignition?

ok dont flame me to much, but why switch to coilpacks? whats the advantage?

Those of you asking questions about the COPs, they can be answered here.
https://www.miataturbo.net/showthrea...highlight=COPs

He isn't planning sequential ignition. MS fire two COPs at a time, it works just fine.

:werd:
Going for hotter spark and a larger plug gap.

Really just doing it because it's a cool project.

Eager to see how that turns out, Ben. What did the COP setup run you?

Very eager to see how this works for you, Ben!

you guys need to all read the thread "cop thread"


and then read the how-to condensed version in the archives.

I want one :-)

use that sharpie up on the yellow salvage marker and aluminum plate to match your cam cover :gay:

looks very nice Scot that is a neat trick you did with lazzers thread. I wonder if his GF lazzergirl was banned as well? he could try to use her Username shit couldn't she.
Ben that shit is friggin awesome i look forward to seeing some numbers on those things. :D

Sav--did you want to know how much the coilpacks were? About $60
And I think I have another appx $90-100 in clips, wire, solder, heatshrink, flex loom, aluminum, allthread, thread locker, and nuts
I also put quite a bit of wear on the teeth of the hole saw I used. I kept it because it's part of a set, but it's not something I'd want to use again for any type of precision cut. It must have been made for wood.

Rob--I was considering either shooting it with black from a rattlecan or sending it to be powdercoated. :dunno:

Others--Thanks. I had family over, but they just left. I'm going to see if I can get away with soldering up my Ignitor/PNP harness in the den while watching football. A female somebody might not be too happy with this plan... :x:

football? or soldering? :gay:
every time I fire up the soldering iron inside I get the, "do you have to do that in here?" :nono:

I'm going a little different route... I'm going with the aluminum plate over, aluminum spacers, and all thread through the valve cover... so I'll actually be using the valve cover hold down (3) holes for mounting this. The trick will be getting the spacers just the right length. Too short and the valve cover gasket won't seal in the middle. Too tall and the coils will still walk out. Should look good though.

Find an industrial bolt supply place. It cost me under $30 for 2 ft of SS M10x1.5, 6 feet of SS M6x1.0, and a wide assortment of stainless/brass nuts and washers. The aluminum flat bar and the aluminum tube (for spacers) was about $30 from McMaster and I have about 10 feet of each.

So this is how it went down.

I gave SWMBO some money and told her to get a late lunch with her mom, leaving the house to myself, so that I could solder inside while watching the Falcons (loose).

I then started the task of soldering up wires into the gutted ignitor. I have to admit that it was a pain in the ass. Mine didn't come out pretty like Joe Perez's, but it did come out successfully.

Then I had a bunch of people distract me, so i didn't get back at it until 8:00, as it was getting dark. Didn't have much time so I quickly ran the wires from my ignitor harness to the COP plugs. And I ran out of butt connectors and there wasn't any light left, so in a magnamx5 move I used a twist cap on the +12v feeds. It HAD to start tonight. :D

No start, but I had both fuel and spark. :confused:
Turns out, the wiring diagram has the spark triggers backwards for my car. Played musical coils. Hit the key. Car started immediately and purred like a friggin kitten.

Here's the obligitory cellphone video from the first start. Cold car. Bad lighting. Ugly wires. I'll clean it up tomorrow. Tomorrow I need to run the tach wires, secure the additional grounds to the head, and make everything neat and pretty.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pqcFnzY6NuU

In the video, you can probably see that I flipped the ignitor around compared to the stock position, braided the wires, and ran them through the intake mani between runners 3&4.
Tomorrow, I'll make everything else look dope like that.