mazda did switch coils somewhere in the 90-93 cars, i think it might have been in between 92 and 93
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Cool stuff, sounds good. Things go through this forum in fads it seems. Everyone jumps on megasquirt, a little WI, then COPs, what's next?
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hopefully some fucking turbos!
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http://img69.imageshack.us/img69/1062/copharnessng8.jpg
http://img259.imageshack.us/img259/6...arness3ex3.jpg http://img259.imageshack.us/img259/3...arness4yn7.jpg http://img227.imageshack.us/img227/2...arness1tk5.jpg http://img227.imageshack.us/img227/9...arness2se9.jpg All cleaned up. Everything was fine when I started the car. Went for a ride, and the tach died. Everything else is fine. Tach works with original ignition. So there must be a loose connection. I'll deal with that later. The 'stray' wire is an extra ground I ran from the harness, but haven't done anything with it yet. Figured I'd see how it works without the ground first. |
I that one mine?
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Anyone know a decent source for the ignitor module? Or have one for sale?
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Where'd you get hte plug that goes to the ignition piece?
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AND.... we're done. Had a bad connection. You see, most of the joints in this harness were soldered. But in what I'll concede was not one of my smarter moments, I decided to play the "Is this hot?" game with something after I soldered it. I just wasn't paying attention, and when the burn came, it startled me and I dropped the iron, which broke the tip. That forced me to butt connect the few remaining joints. TWO of those butt connects had bad connections. I'll also not be taping everything up anymore :fawk:
But we're fixed up, and it's all working now. SOL, http://www.cagetoday.com/wp-content/...-up-sucker.jpg I've got your coils and ignitor here. Jay, the ignitors can be had for around $25 from the typical used parts places fire, i made the plug out of a gutted ignitor. you can see the shell in the very first pic in this thread. |
Originally Posted by Ben
(Post 155223)
Mine didn't come out pretty like Joe Perez's, but it did come out successfully.
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Joe did it just spin and never catch? If so, your triggers are probably backwards. Here's how mine work:
Trigger 1 as labeled on the ignitor goes to Coil 1 (and 4) Trigger 2 as lableled on the ignitor goes to Coil 2 (and 3) I didn't post pics of my solder job because yours looked sooo much nicer. But I feel better about it now. :) |
Originally Posted by Ben
(Post 155677)
Joe did it just spin and never catch? If so, your triggers are probably backwards.
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yeah it's scary as f@@@ actually. my engine spun fast like normal but without starting, then it took a REAL SLOW revolution and then a real fast one again. I had real bad thoughts in my head. But I flipped the COPs around, and it fired immediately. And I made it to HomeDepot and back just fine. :bigtu:
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I set my gaps to .040-.041, increased boost via EBC to the settings from my dyno tuning, and went for it. It hits 13psi or so and holds 12 to redline.
I got ONE misfire, the first time I went into boost. The rest of the time, no problem on WOT through 1-2-3, no problem on pulls from 2.5k in 3rd or 4th, no problem stabbing the throttle in 5th. I'll probably set the gaps back to the .037 range or so, to be safe. They were .027 before. Which is smaller than I remembered setting them, but a gauge doesn't tell any lies. |
The wiring diagram that Lazer posted is incorrect for some cars then? The wrong set of coils is firing correct?
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i followed the 1.6L diagram to a tee and mine fired on the correct cycles....
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it was backwards for me. also my ignitor had different labels on it for the triggers than the one in lazzer's pic. i have a early build 91 longnose.
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Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 156048)
i followed the 1.6L diagram to a tee and mine fired on the correct cycles....
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yep.
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Ben you're going CR on us. I vote NO on the split loom. Don't you have some of the split smooth vinyl stuff? Looks like you've got hoses running to your cops now. You could run the hoses to your coil pack. :gay:
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