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Old 06-06-2010, 11:16 PM   #21
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Update:
So yesterday I started working on the car, and I got everything out, and the new clutch in, and the trans up against the engine. Then I drank way too much and couldn't figure out what bolts went where, so I called it a night. I had to go to work for overtime today, but I got home at about 8:00PM. I ate dinner, threw the tennis ball for the dogs until it was too dark to see, then I decided "you really need to go work on your Miata." In less than 1 hour everything is now together except for the shifter and console, and...1 bellhousing bolt. I can't figure out what hole this bolt goes in? It's the really long bolt, there is 2 I believe and 1 gets a nut on the other side of it. So where does the other long bolt go?
Also, the starter has 3 bolts...the top bolt goes through a wire bracket I'm sure, but the bolt won't seem to start. Perhaps I need to wiggle my starter to find the thread hole?
Other than that, it's done...oh yeah, I lost a little trans fluid when I pulled the trans, it came out of the shifter hole and dumped all over my garage floor. So before I drive it, I'm going to replace the trans fluid. What fluid should I buy? The FM website suggests Red Line MTL Synthetic Gear Oil. I knew I shoulda ordered some when I bought my clutch, unless Napa carries it.
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Old 06-07-2010, 10:11 AM   #22
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turret oil the trans fluid
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Old 06-07-2010, 10:22 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thirdgen View Post
Update:
So yesterday I started working on the car, and I got everything out, and the new clutch in, and the trans up against the engine. Then I drank way too much and couldn't figure out what bolts went where, so I called it a night. I had to go to work for overtime today, but I got home at about 8:00PM. I ate dinner, threw the tennis ball for the dogs until it was too dark to see, then I decided "you really need to go work on your Miata." In less than 1 hour everything is now together except for the shifter and console, and...1 bellhousing bolt. I can't figure out what hole this bolt goes in? It's the really long bolt, there is 2 I believe and 1 gets a nut on the other side of it. So where does the other long bolt go?
Also, the starter has 3 bolts...the top bolt goes through a wire bracket I'm sure, but the bolt won't seem to start. Perhaps I need to wiggle my starter to find the thread hole?
Other than that, it's done...oh yeah, I lost a little trans fluid when I pulled the trans, it came out of the shifter hole and dumped all over my garage floor. So before I drive it, I'm going to replace the trans fluid. What fluid should I buy? The FM website suggests Red Line MTL Synthetic Gear Oil. I knew I shoulda ordered some when I bought my clutch, unless Napa carries it.
For the 2 long bolts you mean the 17mm ones correct? One of them goes on the drivers side about halfway up. The other one with the nut goes on the passengers side. It is the bolt right above the rubber thing that slave goes into. Then for the starter there are 3 14mm bolts. One of them has a nut on it. It goes right above the 17mm with a nut I believe. If you are having trouble getting the starter bolts in, look to see that none of the brackets that hold the curly-Q trans line are stuck between the trans and engine. I have had those get stuck and cause problems.

As for fluid I have always used either Redline or Amsoil. If you have a 5speed the turret needs its own fluid.
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Old 06-07-2010, 11:06 AM   #24
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Awesome response! Looks like I'll be drivin this thing tomorrow...
Does the clutch require a break in period or can I break it in at the drag strip?
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Old 06-07-2010, 11:20 AM   #25
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Clutch break in procedures vary by who you ask. Some people recommend a 500 mile break in period while others say beat the **** out of it right away. Do some searching, as I forget what exactly I did for break in.
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Old 06-07-2010, 11:31 AM   #26
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Well Friday the car must be back on the road and tuned and fully EBC functional. I have a 1965 mustang GT 350H with a boss 302 and 2 carbs on it that needs to get beaten by a 4 cylinder "girls car."
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Old 06-07-2010, 01:47 PM   #27
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So what fluid does the shifter turret take?
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Old 06-07-2010, 07:42 PM   #28
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turret oil the trans fluid
Did you mean the turret takes trans fluid, but it's seperate from the trans. Or did you mean it takes a different kind of fluid. I consulted my haynes manual and couldn't find ****.
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Old 06-07-2010, 07:46 PM   #29
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Did you mean the turret takes trans fluid, but it's seperate from the trans. Or did you mean it takes a different kind of fluid. I consulted my haynes manual and couldn't find ****.
On the 5 speed the turret is its own compartment and I always just put in whatever is leftover from filling the trans.
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Old 06-07-2010, 07:51 PM   #30
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Ok. I misunderstood. I thought he meant the turret takes a different kind of fluid. I was like what is the reasoning for that? So same fluid, just a different compartment. I got it. I'm at work right now, when I get home I'm finishing this thing...
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Old 06-07-2010, 08:41 PM   #31
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i just meant if it leaked out the turrent you didnt lose any trans fluid. i put 80w-90 in mine that i had sitting on my shelf.
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Old 06-08-2010, 02:45 PM   #32
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So I finally got the car off the jackstands and all. I started it up and went to put it in reverse, and it didn't want to go in. My clutch pedal also feels very light. So I guess I gotta bleed the cylinder...awesome, since I'm the only one home, so I guess I'll be drivin it tomorrow.
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Old 06-08-2010, 02:49 PM   #33
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gotta readjust the engagement rod specs. i hope you read my "how to do i prevent this TOB noise" thread and greased the spots the manual says to.
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Old 06-08-2010, 03:11 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shuiend View Post
Clutch break in procedures vary by who you ask. Some people recommend a 500 mile break in period while others say beat the **** out of it right away. Do some searching, as I forget what exactly I did for break in.

A clutch is just a big braking device.

With that in mind, would you track your brakes before you bed them in?
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Old 06-08-2010, 03:59 PM   #35
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yes, I like the mysterious green powder.
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Old 06-09-2010, 02:33 AM   #36
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gotta readjust the engagement rod specs. i hope you read my "how to do i prevent this TOB noise" thread and greased the spots the manual says to.
What rod is adjustable?
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Old 06-09-2010, 03:16 AM   #37
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What rod is adjustable?
The rod that connects the plunger in the master cylinder to the pedal.
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Old 06-09-2010, 03:34 AM   #38
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I had the same problem with not being able to get into gear. You can adjust the rod circled in green. I maxed it out and still had to adjust the pedal throw with the other two nuts further back in the pic.

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Old 06-09-2010, 01:42 PM   #39
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It appears the one nut is a nut where the rod threads into, and the other is a lock nut. I just was in the garage and I had the fiance pump the pedal while I bled the cylinder. It made no difference, so I went to adjust the rod and I can't get the locknut loose! It takes a 12mm wrench like almost everyother bolt on the car does, but all I have is this stubby little wrench. I'm gonna go to work tonight and heist my long 12mm outta my toolbox. I'm impatient though, so I think I'm gonna go in the garage right now and take a propane torch to it...maybe that'll loosen it up a bit.
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Old 06-09-2010, 01:59 PM   #40
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you should probably drink a lot of beer too, cause you seem to get work done really fast when you're drunk. <---sarcasm.
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