FM1 Clutch, installed. - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 04-01-2012, 01:05 PM   #1
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Default FM1 Clutch, installed.

I cant believe the rating on this clutch with the baby soft pedal pressure. Anyone have any real power on these clutches? I cant believe it can hold it. If it can Props to FM. I put 500 miles on my new one yesterday and it is excellent so far. Today its time for some spirited driving..


Mine was missing the TOB, tool, and Pilot bearing when I got it. I did get the clutch switch override tho. Luckily I had all the missing parts around the house. I'll be emailing them.
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Old 04-01-2012, 01:09 PM   #2
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This is good to hear.
What are the 1's rated to anyway?
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Old 04-01-2012, 01:17 PM   #3
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i think 310-320tq. i got to drive around my happy meal for a week before my car had to go back to the shop. i was stunned with the pedal feel.
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Old 04-01-2012, 01:22 PM   #4
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From the FM website: "The Level 1 is rated for 318 ft/lb, and is suitable for turbo and supercharged cars with unmodified engines."

I put this in miata I think going on 2 years ago? My break in period consisted of getting the install done literaly the day me and my friends went to the drag strip. I ran a gear bangin 13.9 that day and it didn't slip a bit, and I love the pedal feel. Best clutch I ever bought, and I felt it was a decent price.

Waiting for Lars to chime in...
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Old 04-01-2012, 01:26 PM   #5
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I wish they had a FM3 or something for the >300wtq guys
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Old 04-01-2012, 01:32 PM   #6
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fm2 - 353tq
and then 949 for anything more i guess
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Old 04-01-2012, 01:38 PM   #7
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From FM:
The Level 2 is for "Serious HP" cars only. Pedal effort is substantial, so if you don`t have 300 hp or more, stick with a Level 1 The Level 2 is rated for 353 ft/lb, and is suitable for turbo and supercharged cars with built engines. It`s probably stronger than your transmission! SFI certified.

Hey Min, what clutch did you use for you 700whp Miata? Twin disc or some shiz?
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Old 04-01-2012, 01:45 PM   #8
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Min is on the twin ceramic.

My only gripe about the 2 is that tq =/= wtq meaning its good for like 290wtq or something like that (too lazy to actually do math on a sunday morning lulz)

I had the FM2 in the green car: its definitely not soft ro "oem like". But then its not as stiff as comparable clutches either, so I guess that still makes it great.

The fm1 sounds like the perfect clutch for a sub 250 car
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Old 04-01-2012, 03:51 PM   #9
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I have the FM1 in my '97, I thought I put it in wrong it was so nice. I bled the line for a week thinking there was air in the line or something weird. I've had the FM1 in that car for almost 3yrs, still works great. It has just a hair of chatter now, the wife drives the car like she stole it. I'm looking at the FM2 for the turbo car build. I'm told it's lighter pedal effort than the ACT "extreme" but heavier than the FM1. True?
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Old 04-01-2012, 03:53 PM   #10
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That's a very accurate description.
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Old 04-01-2012, 04:16 PM   #11
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I've got one of these waiting to go in. Good to read more positive reviews.

OP, did you pull the engine/trans, or just drop the trans? I'm trying to decide which way I want to do it. I have access to a lift, trans jack, every tool imaginable, so I'm thinking trans only. Seems like engine/trans would be best for limited undercar space in a home garage.
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Old 04-01-2012, 04:22 PM   #12
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if you have every tool imagineable and don't want to mess with disconnecting all the wiring/draining coolant/etc just drop the trans. The only hard part really is making sure everything is aligned when putting it back in because the engine wants to tilt forward making the trans impossible to "fit"
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Old 04-01-2012, 04:37 PM   #13
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Get something like this
http://www.lowes.com/pd_118178-281-5...amp&facetInfo=

Swap the grip the other way so it separates when you pump it. Put it between the front of the motor and cowl or thick spot on the radiator. DON"T just crank it to move the motor. Just enough pressure to hold it and adjust the angle of the engine.

Also this is what I used to do motor mounts in my driveway. Use the clamp in separator mode between a shock tower and the intake manifold or exhaust mani and tilt the engine from side to side with it. It'll push more weight than it looks like.
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Old 04-01-2012, 04:46 PM   #14
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OK cool, that's what I figured. Trans only it is. And great idea for the reverse clamp action, thanks for that tip.
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Old 04-01-2012, 08:02 PM   #15
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Harbor freight trans jack is worth the $60 bucks. The Harbor freight 6ton jackstands will get the car high enough to allow you to roll the trans out on the jack. Win on both. Unless you're using a lift, in which case I hate you. Edit: the trans jack + the reversed clamp trick will make aligning the trans to the engine almost simple.

Put the SS clutch line on while you're in there. Baller, and removes 2 brackets that you will otherwise be cussing at when you start putting the trans back in.
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Old 04-01-2012, 08:29 PM   #16
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I just put 500 miles on my FM stage 1 the other day as well. Found out i had boost problems (separate issue). But i was boosting to 20psi, i'm not really sure what HP that is with the gt2560 but it's gotta be pretty close to the limit of this clutch. It held it all day long. Great amazing pedal feel, way better than my last SPEC stage 2 clutch. Plus i have FM SS clutch line.

Also giving +1 to FM. So far so good.
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