forged pistons and better rods...or no?
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 29,085
Total Cats: 375
From: Republic of Dallas
he means that is the end of being cheap with the car. from then on you will want to spend good $ on it. I do not believe he is as familiar with your goals and research as the rest of us though if you must go 1.8 get a 99 head to flow better. personally i would keep the 1.6 and rebuild it over the winter when ever but this is just my taste GL man. FWIW with balance blueprint etc wiescos and stock rods my build ran about 2K with seals and ARP head studs bearings included. 
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The moment you start cheaping out is the moment Murphy will pay you a visit. What kind of machine work are you anticipating?
I thought I'd save some money by not having the pistons coated, but now I sure wish I had done it.
I thought I'd save some money by not having the pistons coated, but now I sure wish I had done it.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 29,085
Total Cats: 375
From: Republic of Dallas
line bore, bore on a torque plate, balancing, 3 angle valve job, and new valve stems / seals. The guy has built a few motors for my father, and its always $1000 in labor for a big block v8.
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Just be sure they've done a fair amount of 4-cyl work as well. I've been burned before by V8 builders improperly machining other engines they're not used to, namely Alfa motors.
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Buy a new harmonic balancer while you're at it. The old one may look good, but the rubber is probably shot. Cheap insurance. New oil pump, water pump, timing belt kit as well. Don't care how new the stuff on the engine is, it's apart so get new parts. ARP makes rod bolts now fyi. New OEM main and head bolts are as much as ARP studs, so I recommend ARP head and main studs. Reusing those fasteners from the engine is silly.
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