The Great Radiator Debate- What is really needed? - Page 2 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 12-12-2011, 09:03 AM   #21
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I've had a ebay Godspeed radiator from the start, with no cooling issues - if anything, too much cooling when cold b/c I drilled 4 1/4" holes in the stat. Then again, every opening on the car is ducted somewhere and I have the Mtuned reroute - as you know. I had ZERO issues with cooling on 100+ ambient temps for 20-30min sessions. The worst thing about it is seeing GodSpeed when you open the hood.

But as I increase the boost, I will eventually swap to TSE's rad.
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Old 12-12-2011, 09:44 AM   #22
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I hear ya Bryan, but in my case, the car is a daily and has a/c. Is your rad the 38 or th 55 core? I can't remember.

You know, with it being winter time and not doing much, I might just spring for the 37mm KOYO for now and maybe upgrade to something bigger come spring time. I need to get something in the car by week's end. The KOYO should hold its value and I should be able to sell it for a little less than what I payed for it. I'll probably skip on a shroud for now too and just find a creative way to mount the fans.
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Old 12-12-2011, 10:16 AM   #23
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it was the 52mm version
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Old 12-12-2011, 10:28 AM   #24
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The more I think about what happened to my PWR, the more I think I should add some kind of anti-corrosion protection. I found a replacement rad cap (16lb though) with zinc anodes. I saw the TSE comes with a SA eqipped rad. cap and now my wheels are turning. I also found that Summit sells a anode that is used with a 1/4" npt fitting. It has a replaceable anode and I wonder if I can get the metal draincock for the Koyo and tap it to fit the anode....

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Old 12-12-2011, 10:30 AM   #25
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How about keeping the reroute, re-inserting the front Tstat and putting dual returns to the Rad through a Tee.

That's what Schmoo did and claims no heat problems on track.
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Old 12-12-2011, 10:38 AM   #26
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Thought about doing that too, but I really don't want more stuff all over then engine bay.
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Old 12-12-2011, 12:17 PM   #27
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Shrouds for the fans are much more effective at cooling for stop and go driving than high speed at the track.

Having said that fans do help on the track, at the very least, in the low/medium speed sections. Many folks have seen lower temps with bigger fans.

I have an experience which points out that fans do help even at 55 mph. My then stock fan setup started overheating in traffic moving at a constant 55 mph. Turned out one of my fan relays had died from water during a recent engine wash...
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Old 12-12-2011, 12:24 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BarbyCar View Post
How about keeping the reroute, re-inserting the front Tstat and putting dual returns to the Rad through a Tee.

That's what Schmoo did and claims no heat problems on track.
Generally a bad idea unless you can verify that both t-stats will open at the same temp. Probably the right thing to do if you're running a baller electric water pump system.
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Old 12-12-2011, 12:29 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BarbyCar View Post
How about keeping the reroute, re-inserting the front Tstat and putting dual returns to the Rad through a Tee.

That's what Schmoo did and claims no heat problems on track.
We have a lot of cars here running just fine with a reroute and large radiator.
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Old 12-12-2011, 12:31 PM   #30
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I need to stop putting tap water in my daily, lol. Is there a flush chemical that can clean all that **** out?
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Old 12-12-2011, 12:50 PM   #31
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I'd just drain and fill twice with distilled water. There are additives that claim to neutralize the electrolisis process. This really only seems to be a problem with aluminum radiators are copper-brass is not affected by the charge in the cooling system (hince why this is not a problem with stock radiators).

What it seems like I am getting from various postings and product descriptions is that what works on the track isn't as effective for street and that what works for street is not as effective for track. Where is the happy medium.

I did just call OPM Autosports, who do a TON of spec Miata, and they said they run the Mishimoto 55mm radiators and never have cooling problems. Interesting. It was also interesting that they quoted me $489 for a 55mm Mishi. Yes, I am kind of a brand name ***** too, I just don't like the idea. I've run KOYOs in my previous cars for years without any problems, but the small shop specialties look promising. I know I'm not a full-on track car and won't be doing multiple 30 minute sessions on 110* days...but I still need something that will cope with interstate traffic in the summer with my a/c on.

I'm still leaning toward the 37mm, running the two SPAL fans for cooling (in parallel with the second one on a seperate power source and using the power going to one as a signal to the relay for the other) and then running the a/c fan mounted to the front of the a/c condensor...that should move enough air to make everything happy.. That's it..I think I will do that.
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Old 12-12-2011, 01:22 PM   #32
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I believe in supporting your local BnM as possible, but you can get the same rad for about 1/2 of that on the interwebz. I've seen the Mishimoto used in lots of IT and SM cars. They make less power than you, but they are at 100% for 3 hour races, and sometimes 24+ hour enduros. I wouldn't spend $500 on one, but at $200 it's a deal.
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Old 12-12-2011, 01:39 PM   #33
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In for results of Hustler's seafoam coolant system.
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Old 12-12-2011, 02:38 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BarbyCar View Post
How about keeping the reroute, re-inserting the front Tstat and putting dual returns to the Rad through a Tee.

That's what Schmoo did and claims no heat problems on track.
No, Doppel has the right idea removing the reroute since he has an '02. The 01+ head gasket directs more coolant to the rear cylinders by choking flow to the front cylinder, so when it is combined with a reroute there is hardly any coolant flow around cylinder #1. A reroute should never be installed on 01-05 cars unless the head gasket is changed to the 94-00 head gasket.
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Old 12-12-2011, 02:58 PM   #35
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Shrouding thoughts- Why not have a full shroud and within the shroud cut large holes in it for air flow. Now find pieces of small flexible rubber and put a rivet on the top sides or it so when the fan kicks in, it will seal, but when running down the highway or at open course speeds, the flaps will open and allow extra air to pass.

Also, I'm sure its been said before but I'll ask anyway- Wouldn't the reroute and an older gasket be more effective then the newer gasket and no reroute? I'm not sure of the flow differences between the two so please pardon my extreme ignorance (once again). If this were the case, would it be better to just pull the head and put the older style gasket in?

The OP just seems like the type who makes sure its done the right way the first time which is why I ask.
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Old 12-12-2011, 03:07 PM   #36
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Ugh..pulling the head to swap hg's is not something I want to do. I know it would be the "right" thing to do, but I'd rather find a compromise by using a good radiator and having good airflow management.
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Old 12-12-2011, 03:35 PM   #37
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Yeah pulling the reroute is much easier than pulling the head


Quote:
Shrouding thoughts- Why not have a full shroud and within the shroud cut large holes in it for air flow. Now find pieces of small flexible rubber and put a rivet on the top sides or it so when the fan kicks in, it will seal, but when running down the highway or at open course speeds, the flaps will open and allow extra air to pass.
FM's shroud has exactly that.

I think the TSE fan without shroud plus a bigass fan, like Sav is running now, should be enough for anybody. As long as there is some ducting/sealing between the rad and the ac condenser so that the fan pulls through the AC condenser as well it should be more than adequate for stop and go traffic in summer heat, and the lack of a shroud should improve airflow through the rad at speed. I couldn't go this route since I'm leaning my radiator back.
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Old 12-12-2011, 09:58 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doppelgänger View Post
Ugh..pulling the head to swap hg's is not something I want to do. I know it would be the "right" thing to do,
Actually, I'm not sure about that.

It's been a while since I looked at the pictures, but I seem to recall that in addition to changing the gasket design, the coolant passages themselves were worked over somewhat. I'd have to go back and analyze everything again to jog my memory (hint: I'm too lazy to do this) however I'm not certain that simply popping a '94-'00 gasket between an '01+ block and head is a wise maneuver.
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Old 12-12-2011, 10:24 PM   #39
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I think I remember reading Joe's thread on miata.net and I seem to remember the 01+ head gasket being slightly better solution than a coolant reroute.
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Old 12-12-2011, 10:32 PM   #40
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The thing someone needs to do is to put a bunch of temp sensors all over the head and block and test the various setups. That would be nice, but a lot of time and money involved.
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