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Old 12-26-2011, 03:46 PM   #1
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Exclamation head torque w/ cometic hg

Have heard when using a cometic head gasket you should over torque to prevent leakage. I'm using stock head bolts. Only running 10 psi out of a t28 Garrett. Putting car back together and want some opinions. Just want my daily driver running not worried about after market head bolts or anything like that building a snub noes for 30 psi and ill do that one up right. I just need to get to work and need to know what people think about torque specs. Thanks
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Old 12-26-2011, 03:48 PM   #2
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why the hell would you overtorque the stock bolts?
You want to stretch them?
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Old 12-26-2011, 03:51 PM   #3
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Or snap it in block....... this is why I'm asking about it. To see what stock bolts are capable of or if I can just go with spec and be fine on a cometic btw Vlad when are you going to be at the next Tariff squad meet?
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Old 12-26-2011, 03:54 PM   #4
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Which one is that? Location?

And yeah, I'd stick with oem spec unless you pick up some arp's
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Old 12-26-2011, 03:56 PM   #5
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I've heard that 60lb/ft is the way on our heads with MLS. Is this still the consensus?
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Old 12-26-2011, 04:04 PM   #6
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Should be good.
I think I went just a tad over that on the white one with no issues.
Perhaps Sav will chime in since he does these all the time iirc.
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Old 12-26-2011, 04:09 PM   #7
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Sav knows all. True story.
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Old 12-26-2011, 08:08 PM   #8
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I did 80lb/ft on mine and it was fine for three years...but I'm looking for the right answer, lol.
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Old 12-26-2011, 08:16 PM   #9
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the "right" answer would be the specs from mazda, which can be found on m.net garage section. I tihnk its 56-60 1st time and something like 70 2nd time. check it out
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Old 12-26-2011, 10:35 PM   #10
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Would someone make a sticky for this info? There was a long thread about it some time ago, and there was a discrpency with arp values. Lets make sure we keep the proper info handy.
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Old 12-27-2011, 09:48 AM   #11
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I just followed the ARP torque specs that everyone says here (don't follow the paper in the box). That is if you have ARP studs... if you don't, get some.
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Old 12-27-2011, 10:40 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by falcon View Post
That is if you have ARP studs... if you don't, get some.
+1. For the price, why wouldn't you?
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Old 12-27-2011, 11:08 PM   #13
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Original arp spec was 49. We use 65, which is what the instructions I got with my first set said. Current spec is 80, and apparently that will crack it. Arp doesn't seem to care about fixing their instructions.

I don't know or care about factory specs.
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Old 12-27-2011, 11:15 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Savington View Post

Original arp spec was 49. We use 65, which is what the instructions I got with my first set said. Current spec is 80, and apparently that will crack it. Arp doesn't seem to care about fixing their instructions.

I don't know or care about factory specs.
Thanks, baller.
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Old 12-27-2011, 11:25 PM   #15
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Np cutie :-*
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Old 12-31-2011, 12:50 AM   #16
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I'm bored so here is a bunch of fastener information from a way too in depth gasket presentation I attended at IMIS:
-Clean the black oxide coating off of the threads on the ARPs if you want a consistent torque value. Muriatic acid will take it off quickly. The coating increases friction and will result in less clamp load with the same torque wrench value.
-Check the threads using a thread gauge. A dinged thread will increase torque reading.
-Don't use ARP moly lube. They came out with a new "super lube" or something that is better. ARP moly lube results in inconsistent readings with re-torques.
-A "cold retorque" can be performed and will result in more even clamp load. To perform a cold retorque you torque the gasket up as normal and then back 1 fastener at a time off and retorque (in the normal pattern).

/answers to questions no one asked
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