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head torque w/ cometic hg

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Old Dec 26, 2011 | 02:46 PM
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Exclamation head torque w/ cometic hg

Have heard when using a cometic head gasket you should over torque to prevent leakage. I'm using stock head bolts. Only running 10 psi out of a t28 Garrett. Putting car back together and want some opinions. Just want my daily driver running not worried about after market head bolts or anything like that building a snub noes for 30 psi and ill do that one up right. I just need to get to work and need to know what people think about torque specs. Thanks
Old Dec 26, 2011 | 02:48 PM
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why the hell would you overtorque the stock bolts?
You want to stretch them?
Old Dec 26, 2011 | 02:51 PM
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Or snap it in block....... this is why I'm asking about it. To see what stock bolts are capable of or if I can just go with spec and be fine on a cometic btw Vlad when are you going to be at the next Tariff squad meet?
Old Dec 26, 2011 | 02:54 PM
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Which one is that? Location?

And yeah, I'd stick with oem spec unless you pick up some arp's
Old Dec 26, 2011 | 02:56 PM
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I've heard that 60lb/ft is the way on our heads with MLS. Is this still the consensus?
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Old Dec 26, 2011 | 03:04 PM
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Should be good.
I think I went just a tad over that on the white one with no issues.
Perhaps Sav will chime in since he does these all the time iirc.
Old Dec 26, 2011 | 03:09 PM
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Sav knows all. True story.
Old Dec 26, 2011 | 07:08 PM
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I did 80lb/ft on mine and it was fine for three years...but I'm looking for the right answer, lol.
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Old Dec 26, 2011 | 07:16 PM
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the "right" answer would be the specs from mazda, which can be found on m.net garage section. I tihnk its 56-60 1st time and something like 70 2nd time. check it out
Old Dec 26, 2011 | 09:35 PM
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Would someone make a sticky for this info? There was a long thread about it some time ago, and there was a discrpency with arp values. Lets make sure we keep the proper info handy.
Old Dec 27, 2011 | 08:48 AM
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I just followed the ARP torque specs that everyone says here (don't follow the paper in the box). That is if you have ARP studs... if you don't, get some.
Old Dec 27, 2011 | 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by falcon
That is if you have ARP studs... if you don't, get some.
+1. For the price, why wouldn't you?
Old Dec 27, 2011 | 10:08 PM
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Original arp spec was 49. We use 65, which is what the instructions I got with my first set said. Current spec is 80, and apparently that will crack it. Arp doesn't seem to care about fixing their instructions.

I don't know or care about factory specs.
Old Dec 27, 2011 | 10:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Savington

Original arp spec was 49. We use 65, which is what the instructions I got with my first set said. Current spec is 80, and apparently that will crack it. Arp doesn't seem to care about fixing their instructions.

I don't know or care about factory specs.
Thanks, baller.
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Old Dec 27, 2011 | 10:25 PM
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Np cutie :-*
Old Dec 30, 2011 | 11:50 PM
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I'm bored so here is a bunch of fastener information from a way too in depth gasket presentation I attended at IMIS:
-Clean the black oxide coating off of the threads on the ARPs if you want a consistent torque value. Muriatic acid will take it off quickly. The coating increases friction and will result in less clamp load with the same torque wrench value.
-Check the threads using a thread gauge. A dinged thread will increase torque reading.
-Don't use ARP moly lube. They came out with a new "super lube" or something that is better. ARP moly lube results in inconsistent readings with re-torques.
-A "cold retorque" can be performed and will result in more even clamp load. To perform a cold retorque you torque the gasket up as normal and then back 1 fastener at a time off and retorque (in the normal pattern).

/answers to questions no one asked
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