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Old 08-08-2011, 02:58 AM   #1
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Default The highly lame: Hood "Risers"

Okay, so i've searched decent amount of topics here, and while I have no need to fix a current temperature problem, The science somewhat interests me, and the topic is always debatable amongst my friends.

As the topic says..
On MY Car, 1990 miata, with all a stock hood, and vented turn signals,

1. car running, say over 40mph
a. air comes in thru vents? sucked in due to pressure
b. would air come out and "vent"
2. car idling, 0 mph
a. hot air does come from engine bay, and onto windshield u can see, but, theres no pressure then correct?


some claim it vents, some claim good temp decreases, some say stupid "CR.net ****", like I said, not interested in doing it, i'm just wanting what you think about it, thanks
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Old 08-08-2011, 03:15 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blindsay View Post
Okay, so i've searched decent amount of topics here, and while I have no need to fix a current temperature problem, The science somewhat interests me, and the topic is always debatable amongst my friends.

As the topic says..
On MY Car, 1990 miata, with all a stock hood, and vented turn signals,

1. car running, say over 40mph
a. air comes in thru vents? sucked in due to pressure
b. would air come out and "vent"
2. car idling, 0 mph
a. hot air does come from engine bay, and onto windshield u can see, but, theres no pressure then correct?


some claim it vents, some claim good temp decreases, some say stupid "CR.net ****", like I said, not interested in doing it, i'm just wanting what you think about it, thanks

There is no 'highly debated' topic here. At speed, the windshield is a high pressure zone. Raising the rear of your hood simply raises the pressure in your engine bay reducing the effectiveness of your radiator.

At idle, there would be no pressure, but if your car is overheating at idle, you have other issues.

If you would be willing to spend time and/or money on a "performance enhancement" that would only provide a marginal effect at best, and only at idle, while actually REDUCING the performance of your car AT SPEED, then you're priorities are *** backwards. (Note: not YOU, you. The hypothetical 'you' )
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Old 08-08-2011, 03:17 AM   #3
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Wtf, who debates this still? The area behind the hood is high pressure at speed, lifting the back of the hood will increase engine bay pressure and decrease cooling ability.
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Old 08-08-2011, 08:48 AM   #4
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Get new friends.
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Old 08-08-2011, 10:56 AM   #5
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GTFO
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have a nice day.
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Old 08-08-2011, 11:42 AM   #6
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What if you've converted your Miata to air-cooling?
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Old 08-08-2011, 12:38 PM   #7
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But I run a slightly elevated hood (bent), cut short rubber trim (about a foot removed from driver's side), and no splash shield on my car and my rad. fans don't turn on often.

Why? the cut rubber hood trim was an attempt to get the pressurized cowl air to the turbo area so my hood paint wouldn't turn brown, and I'm too lazy to install the splash tray, and I don't track my car, and I have a coolant reroute, and I have a slightly larger aftermarket automatic replacement radiator. My "big" intercooler is a tube/fin too so more air gets thru it.
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Old 08-08-2011, 12:44 PM   #8
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Various vintage V8 muscle cars use cowl induction to draw air from the high pressure region in front of the windshield.

And they knew jack about aero back then.
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Old 08-08-2011, 12:46 PM   #9
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wait, wait wait...

OP, you want to raise the hood to combat an overheating issue?
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Old 08-08-2011, 01:04 PM   #10
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So as a cheap trick, I wonder if it would help on my car....
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Old 08-08-2011, 01:19 PM   #11
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A hinge-raised hood combined with halfway up headlights looks cool parked yo. To the uninformed.

But looking cool won't cool off your motor.
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Old 08-08-2011, 01:37 PM   #12
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LOL I know drifters **** that swear by this. They say it improves flow when the car is sideways. Did I mention they're fa66ots?
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Old 08-08-2011, 02:13 PM   #13
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Did I mention they're fa66ots?
they are ballerinas, emphasis on baller
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Old 08-08-2011, 02:20 PM   #14
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Ballet, Dancing With The Starz, Figure Skating…
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Old 08-08-2011, 02:20 PM   #15
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don't care what you guys say. i bought some risers for $5 put them on in 4mins. and it definitely let heat out. in s. tx. traffic, while cruising, and at speed. yes that is a high pressure area in the center 12-18 inches. air does flow "in" a little in the center, stagnant near each end of those center 18", but flows "out" from under the remainder of the hood on each side. It was fine until i got a drop vent hood about a year later. only downside was i think it looks ugly, like your car was in a wreck, and everybody and their mama tells you your hood is open! it's not a vette

might not be a big deal in cali. or michigan, but in south texas it gets stupid hot. and i've had to replace a ton of my brittle underhood wiring from it.


that was on my way to a pca event in the rio grand valley. i did put yarn all the way across the hood too see what it did at the track, but didn't get any video of it. like i've told other people though, ymmv. i had a splitter, and big hitler stache cutout on my bumper. not sure if that made it work better for me.
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Old 08-08-2011, 02:23 PM   #16
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I did the exact same test and my strings pull in at 40mph.

its a horrible vid, but at :06 i say "40 mph" and the inner string is sucked in and never lows back out. And that was just with the gasket pulled out.




anyways, who gives a flying **** how hot it is under the hood? If i move to TX I won't change a damn thing on my setup.
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Old 08-08-2011, 02:24 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spoolin2bars View Post
don't care what you guys say. i bought some risers for $5 put them on in 4mins. and it definitely let heat out. in s. tx. traffic, while cruising, and at speed. yes that is a high pressure area in the center 12-18 inches. air does flow "in" a little in the center, stagnant near each end of those center 18", but flows "out" from under the remainder of the hood on each side. It was fine until i got a drop vent hood about a year later. only downside was i think it looks ugly, like your car was in a wreck, and everybody and their mama tells you your hood is open! it's not a vette

might not be a big deal in cali. or michigan, but in south texas it gets stupid hot. and i've had to replace a ton of my brittle underhood wiring from it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ejPk2eBnr7o

that was on my way to a pca event in the rio grand valley. i did put yarn all the way across the hood too see what it did at the track, but didn't get any video of it. like i've told other people though, ymmv. i had a splitter, and big hitler stache cutout on my bumper. not sure if that made it work better for me.
Don't tell me you run those gayass "Drift Charms" on your rear toe hooks too?!!?

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Old 08-08-2011, 02:28 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by pusha View Post
they are ballerinas, emphasis on baller
sad thing is many of them actually have better car control skills than 90% of the people hating on them. and atleast they are doing something with their cars besides hardparking them. what pisses me off is someone with a built motor, big power, and their tach has never swung past 4k. hardparkers/showcars don't need internals to look good in a parking lot. if you got it, use it!
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Old 08-08-2011, 02:30 PM   #19
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Don't tell me you run those gayass "Drift Charms" on your rear toe hooks too?!!?

machete don't drift and neither do i.
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Old 08-08-2011, 02:43 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
I did the exact same test and my strings pull in at 40mph.

its a horrible vid, but at :06 i say "40 mph" and the inner string is sucked in and never lows back out. And that was just with the gasket pulled out.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aF-UPdfHEzU



anyways, who gives a flying **** how hot it is under the hood? If i move to TX I won't change a damn thing on my setup.
not a street cruiser like you, but a guy that tracks his car might care.
i replaced my IAT wire 2yrs. ago. the wire broke inside the insulation causing my car to cut out under boost, and only after warming up. during a 15min. drive or longer, the isulation would soften/relax and the broken wire would separate. once it cooled the insulator would contract, making the wire reconnect again. this weekend, it did the same thing at the track, killing my session. extreme example, but thats one of the reasons why i care. but then again, if you don't track your car in 105*+ weather every year, it might not be that important to you. there's better ways to do this, like what i have now, but for the money and time involved it's not a bad short term solution.
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