How hard would it be to return my turbo Miata to stock? - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

Welcome to Miataturbo.net   Members
 


General Miata Chat A place to talk about anything Miata

Reply
 
 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 03-31-2011, 02:49 AM   #1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 384
Total Cats: 1
Default How hard would it be to return my turbo Miata to stock?

For a little background... I bought this car with all of the mods/turbo/tuning already done to it. I've learned a ton about the car, and Miata's in general. I've even learned a lot about boost. So, right now I could use some money and I would like to take all the turbo parts off the car, return it to stock, and sell it for as much as I can get out of her.

It came with this stuff, boost wise:
BEGI Ceramic Coated Cast Iron Manifold
BEGI Stainless Steel Divorced Wastegate Downpipe
Garrett GT2554 @ ~10-12psi
AVO Front Mount Intercooler (26x8x3)
AVO Blow Off Valve
AEM Fuel Ignition Controller tuned at Beyond Redline
BEGI Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator
Stewart Warner Boost Gauge
AEM UEGO Air/Fuel Meter
305cc Green Top Injectors
Voodoo III Manual Boost Controller
OBX Exhaust

I want the manifold, turbo, downpipe, FMIC, blow off valve, piping, drilled and tapped oil pan, boost and a/f gauges, and the boost controller.

I would leave AEM FIC, BEGI AFPR, 305cc injectors, and OBX exhaust.

Then I would put a stock header and intake back on, as well as a replacement oil pan, but I know it wouldn't run right with the AEM FIC and BEGI AFPR. I suck at tuning and am not familiar at all with either of these two items. How could I go about returning the car to stock (motor wise), and have her run like she's from the factory?

The plan would be to hold on to the manifold, turbo, downpipe, FMIC, blow off valve, piping, boost and a/f gauges, drilled and tapped oil pan, and the boost controller, then wait until I have enough money to pick up a rust-free, unmolested 1.8L Miata. Then I would use all those parts, plus a Megasquirt, 550c injectors, bigger clutch, test pipe, and 3" exhaust.

I know the basics to a lot of things, but I basically want to know what I will all need to do to return the car to stock (motor wise), and once I get a new car, I want to know what I'll need to do to set it up. Right now I'm mainly worried about what I'd need to return my current car to stock and having it tuned/running right.

How does this all sound? Help me out here? I apologize in advance for still getting the hang of things as I'm a noob.
_spyder is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-31-2011, 05:18 AM   #2
Cpt. Slow
iTrader: (25)
 
curly's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oregon City, OR
Posts: 12,105
Total Cats: 518
Default

So you want to make some money but you're keeping everything?

Afpr doesnt care if you're not boosting. It doesn't do anything until it sees positive pressure. Sell the 305 injectors, get some stock ones, and you'll need a Maf if you don't already.

Personally, I'd go MS now, just NA. Sell the other stuff, and when you're ready, get a art tech or absurd setup.
curly is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-31-2011, 05:30 AM   #3
Elite Member
iTrader: (17)
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 2,831
Total Cats: 0
Default

What Curly said!

Get your car running NA on OEM injectors and all that jazz and install a MS while stock, get rid of the maf and run a AIT sensor and start tuning and becomeing familiar with all the setting and know how. Then start upgrading the go fast bits. It makes trouble shooting alot easier when you run into problems installing parts.

dont worry about replacing the oil pan. Just get a NPT plug that matches your drain fitting and put a lil bit of thread sealer on it and bolt it in. (just check on it from time to time to make sure its not backing out) save you the headache of having to replace and reseal an oil pan!
WonTon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-31-2011, 10:26 AM   #4
Elite Member
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Granbury, TX
Posts: 6,008
Total Cats: 583
Default

Obviously, the best way to return to stock is to have all the stock parts. I never throw away/sell my stock parts when I mod, and my mods are always done with as little change to the basic car (drilling/cutting/wire harness) as possible. A stock car will usually bring more money than modded because it is maintainable by the next owner.

I take it you don't have that option. Also, it sounds like you have rust issues, so we're not talking about a car that will bring a lot of money or is a long-term keeper. In that case, get it running on an MS-1 using an MSPNP base map, tune the idle and cranking a bit, keep the parts you want and sell.

The alternative, sell as-is (sounds like a nice setup). Our turbo parts/kits get better/cheaper all the time -- the beauty of owning a high-volume automobile. Plus, you don't have to store the stuff long-term while looking for your next, rust-free project.
hornetball is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-31-2011, 02:24 PM   #5
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 384
Total Cats: 1
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by curly View Post
So you want to make some money but you're keeping everything?

Afpr doesnt care if you're not boosting. It doesn't do anything until it sees positive pressure. Sell the 305 injectors, get some stock ones, and you'll need a Maf if you don't already.

Personally, I'd go MS now, just NA. Sell the other stuff, and when you're ready, get a art tech or absurd setup.
Making money isn't the top priority right now. I just don't like the way this car was particularly set-up, wiring and tuning wise. I would much rather take off the stuff I could use in my next turbo Miata build, and build up an untouched myself, knowing everything about the car.

If I can get ~$3,000 for the car N/A, I'd be happy. I'm a full time student in college right now, but if I can work my *** off this summer, I can save up some extra cash and put it towards buying a cheap beater DD, and then a clean 1.8L. I want to start on an untouched platform so I know everything that's been done to the car once I start. I don't want to deal with rust (like the stuff that is currently forming on my car), and I'd like something with lower miles, a Torsen, a hardtop, and maybe a little more options.

I have an MAF already, but if I should get stock injectors, I can do that as well. I'm just worried about how it's going to run without all the turbo stuff in there. I have no problem leaving the AEM stuff in there when I sell it, I just want it to run right.

I don't want to throw a Megasquirt in it right now, I don't like the way things were wired (rats nest much?) and the platform isn't the way I desire. So it would be wasted money until I can put it in a Miata that I build myself.

Quote:
Originally Posted by WonTon View Post
What Curly said!

Get your car running NA on OEM injectors and all that jazz and install a MS while stock, get rid of the maf and run a AIT sensor and start tuning and becomeing familiar with all the setting and know how. Then start upgrading the go fast bits. It makes trouble shooting alot easier when you run into problems installing parts.

dont worry about replacing the oil pan. Just get a NPT plug that matches your drain fitting and put a lil bit of thread sealer on it and bolt it in. (just check on it from time to time to make sure its not backing out) save you the headache of having to replace and reseal an oil pan!
Sorry for the noobish reply, but how does the Megasquirt even get put in? Right now behind the passenger seat is the stock ECU along with the AEM software, all wired into the harnesses. I'd feel alot better doing it to a stock Miata later down the road, then adding these turbo parts that I'm happy with from this build.

And thanks for the tip on the oil pan

Quote:
Originally Posted by hornetball View Post
Obviously, the best way to return to stock is to have all the stock parts. I never throw away/sell my stock parts when I mod, and my mods are always done with as little change to the basic car (drilling/cutting/wire harness) as possible. A stock car will usually bring more money than modded because it is maintainable by the next owner.

I take it you don't have that option. Also, it sounds like you have rust issues, so we're not talking about a car that will bring a lot of money or is a long-term keeper. In that case, get it running on an MS-1 using an MSPNP base map, tune the idle and cranking a bit, keep the parts you want and sell.

The alternative, sell as-is (sounds like a nice setup). Our turbo parts/kits get better/cheaper all the time -- the beauty of owning a high-volume automobile. Plus, you don't have to store the stuff long-term while looking for your next, rust-free project.
I bought the car previously modded, as stated in the first post. So I don't have the stock parts at my disposal. I can get them from a salvage yard or something though. I'm not looking for this car to bring big bucks, but I'm happy to get a reasonable amount for my location. It is starting to form rust though. I don't know if I want to get a Megasquirt for it though, like I said in my last reply.

It is a nice setup, but I'd rather keep the stuff I like (there are some good quality parts in here), plus it would save me alot of money later down the line when I want to turbo my next Miata. I also trust these parts, whereas when I would buy used it's a gamble.
_spyder is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-31-2011, 04:31 PM   #6
Elite Member
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Granbury, TX
Posts: 6,008
Total Cats: 583
Default

In that case, I would recommend sell as-is and use the time you save to make sure you get good grades and a good job. Then, you can buy whatever you want (assuming some woman hasn't hijacked your life).
hornetball is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-31-2011, 05:51 PM   #7
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 384
Total Cats: 1
Default

I would, but right now it's misfiring on the first cylinder. Just put in new plugs and wires, no help. It's ticking and I can't tell if white smoke is coming out the tail pipe or not. This among all the wiring/tuning mess, just makes me want to swap a stock motor in, tune it to run good, and get rid of it. I'm pissed off.
_spyder is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-31-2011, 06:18 PM   #8
Cpt. Slow
iTrader: (25)
 
curly's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oregon City, OR
Posts: 12,105
Total Cats: 518
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by _spyder View Post
Sorry for the noobish reply, but how does the Megasquirt even get put in?
Unplug stock ecu, plug in MS. How you secure it is up to you.
curly is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-31-2011, 06:19 PM   #9
Elite Member
iTrader: (17)
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 2,831
Total Cats: 0
Default

It comes with short self tapping screws!
WonTon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-31-2011, 06:25 PM   #10
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 384
Total Cats: 1
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by curly View Post
Unplug stock ecu, plug in MS. How you secure it is up to you.
I think the AEM stuff is wired into the stock ECU tho. And I have that BEGI thing that I'm assuming is wired into somewhere. Could I just take all that stuff out and then put a different stock ECU back in? And turn the motor to stock? Otherwise, how much would a Megasquirt be for that application? I don't know how to mess with it, so I'd like it to come pre-programmed for stock application. this is just a mess right now. So much to do, so little money.
_spyder is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-31-2011, 07:45 PM   #11
Elite Member
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Granbury, TX
Posts: 6,008
Total Cats: 583
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by _spyder View Post
I would, but right now it's misfiring on the first cylinder. Just put in new plugs and wires, no help. It's ticking and I can't tell if white smoke is coming out the tail pipe or not. This among all the wiring/tuning mess, just makes me want to swap a stock motor in, tune it to run good, and get rid of it. I'm pissed off.
Seems to me the first thing you need to do is diagnose this. And I don't mean diagnosis by throwing parts at it. You need to know whether it needs a new engine or not . . . returning to stock won't matter if the engine's blown.

My first recommendation is a compression check. Cheap and easy to do. Let us know.
hornetball is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-31-2011, 08:00 PM   #12
Cpt. Slow
iTrader: (25)
 
curly's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oregon City, OR
Posts: 12,105
Total Cats: 518
Default

Clicking or not, I don't think putting a stock exhaust manifold on is a bad idea, if you can't afford a proper setup, there's no point in blowing up your motor just to experience a few thousand miles of boost.

the BEGI auxiliary fuel pressure regulator is completely vacuum and fuel based, it won't do a damn thing if that little vacuum line isn't pressurized by the turbo.
curly is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-31-2011, 08:26 PM   #13
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 384
Total Cats: 1
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by hornetball View Post
Seems to me the first thing you need to do is diagnose this. And I don't mean diagnosis by throwing parts at it. You need to know whether it needs a new engine or not . . . returning to stock won't matter if the engine's blown.

My first recommendation is a compression check. Cheap and easy to do. Let us know.
Yup, compression test will be done tomorrow. If I need a new engine I'll have to save up, buy one and swap it in. I would keep everything stock under the hood, which is why I want to know how to set up the ECU to act like it was stock again, not turbo'd.

I would then take the turbo stuff off the current engine and hold onto it until I can get another Miata and do it right myself.

Quote:
Originally Posted by curly View Post
Clicking or not, I don't think putting a stock exhaust manifold on is a bad idea, if you can't afford a proper setup, there's no point in blowing up your motor just to experience a few thousand miles of boost.

the BEGI auxiliary fuel pressure regulator is completely vacuum and fuel based, it won't do a damn thing if that little vacuum line isn't pressurized by the turbo.
This is a proper setup, I just don't agree with some of it. I don't have any stock parts to put on. It's been running on this exact set up for over 50,000 miles. I'll do a compression test tomorrow and go from there, and thanks for the tip on the BEGI thing. Much appreciated.
_spyder is offline   Reply With Quote
 
 
Reply

Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
1991 Turbo Miata partout tottestad Miata parts for sale/trade 18 09-14-2015 08:52 PM
WTB parts for HPDE car Voltwings WTB 5 09-11-2015 09:23 AM
Project DDoS: '99 "Budget" boost build ProjectDDoS Build Threads 1 09-09-2015 02:52 PM
New here, saying hi, here's what I'm workin with. SuperSneakySecretSquirrel Meet and Greet 5 09-06-2015 09:30 PM
2009 Subaru WRX Hatchback - Pearl White - 83k miles - $16999 Braineack Cars for sale/trade 3 09-04-2015 03:12 PM


Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:46 AM.