How many miles on your WBO2 Sensor?
Because of how sensitive the LC1 is, I am going to add run another ground to it. Completely stupid I think because it worked flawlessly since may and all through the summer, but since my tune is perfect, I am not in a rush to spend money on a sensor.
Will let ya'll know.
Will let ya'll know.
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I've had terrible luck with the Innovate stuff. The AEM, i replaced the sensor once on the Miata, mostly because I buggered the threads on the first one.
I'm hoping Innovate has stepped up their game, because for a handheld unit, the new LM-2 is pretty cool. OBDII logging, and all kinds of stuff. We got a few in and I fondled the unit for a couple minutes.
I'm hoping Innovate has stepped up their game, because for a handheld unit, the new LM-2 is pretty cool. OBDII logging, and all kinds of stuff. We got a few in and I fondled the unit for a couple minutes.
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How do I say this gently? All the folks who are having trouble with their LC-1 are retards. 
In all seriousness. The LC-1 is sensitive to supply voltage. Wire it in a way that it is not energized during cranking. Mine takes power from the battery through a relay that's switched by the radio's supply. It's also important that the LC1 be grounded to the same ground as the ECU, as close as possible to the ECU. Satisfy those two concerns, and don't mount the sensor too close to the engine, and I doubt you'll have much trouble.
In all seriousness. The LC-1 is sensitive to supply voltage. Wire it in a way that it is not energized during cranking. Mine takes power from the battery through a relay that's switched by the radio's supply. It's also important that the LC1 be grounded to the same ground as the ECU, as close as possible to the ECU. Satisfy those two concerns, and don't mount the sensor too close to the engine, and I doubt you'll have much trouble.
Perhaps, but I've even had problems with my LM-1 on the dyno, and it's running off wall power.. It gets the same sensor errors that the one's i've had in cars do.
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My LC1 works fine after 15k and it is hooked up the same as savingtons. I did have trouble with the heater calibration at first, but that was solved with a full calibration (disconnect sensor from the controller and power it up, then plug it back in and power it up again ... in free air of course)
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Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 538
Total Cats: -2
From: NHR, TX
Replaced my old sensor yesterday, and the controller is working perfect again. I wish I would have know a week ago this was the issue. But remember although my sensor died it was in the stock location, and I just recently added a heat sink. I would bet it would have lasted longer if it were a foot further away from the header.
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No personal experiance, but Ive installed 2 LC-1's and havent heard about much bad from either user. I think I have decided to go Zeitronix with their LCD display, since it displays multiple values (EGT, Boost, A/F, Lambda) in one nice looking display. Keep it stock looking. Plus Im severely ---- about my gauges matching, and I wouldnt be able to do it well enough to not bother the **** out of my daily.
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My AEM gauge has given me nothing but perfect service since I installed it. I ran pig lean for a very short time, and am now running pig rich due to lack of time to tune and to play it safe. I only have about 5k on mine though.
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Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 34,402
Total Cats: 7,523
From: Chicago. (The less-murder part.)
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i had to replace the sensor every couple of months on my LC-1, but i am still on my factory sensor on my AEM. i would say about 1500 pig rich miles on my probe and about 4000 or so on the miata.
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