Sean

iTrader: (12)

I would vote an inline 6 ( 1JZ) , a v6 my preference would be a 4.3 chevy motor, or an ls based v8. The ls fits in the car nice and a bone stock one will handle a good amount of boost. I would even consider a 6.0L ls motor. They can be found near me for about $800 with accessories, harness and ecu. They are easy to work on and parts are pretty cheap. The 1UZ I would not recommend. They are cool because they are a small light weight v8 and if you wanted to keep it completely stock it would be great but they are extremely expensive to modify and you do not get much gain for your input. My personal favorite is an inline 6 obviously and if your fab skills are good it will not be hard at all. Plus you cannot beat the sound of a single turbo 6 cyl.

RyanRaduechel

iTrader: (10)

I was thinking about pulling my motor out of my Dart and putting it in my Miata. Might possibly be the first small block Mopar Miata. Those late 90's early 00's 5.2 and 5.9's are nice with their closed chambered heads, MPI, and many other goodies. It would be ready to rip in a Miata, I would just need a trans behind it. Maybe just the A833 4 speed from my Dart as well. Viperormiata (Josh) and I were talking about it, a late model Hemi would also be bad *** in a Miata, but fitment would definitely be an issue.

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

Surprise surprise

sportage4x4

twin turbo LSx fits. rest assured, it is insane to drive.

yes, the turbos are too small. yes the exhaust is too small. yes there is no intercooler. yes it puts down rubber in 4th gear at 80mph.

TurboTim

iTrader: (9)

I'm sure a 4 turbo and wipplecharged BBC fits with enough persuasion but it's not on my interest list, neither is spinning tires at 80mph in 4th. Looks complex though.

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

How much power? 500 something?

TurboTim

iTrader: (9)

Bitches say Huh?



"I just got back from picking up my 'new' engine. Gotta start somewhere..supposedly a JDM V6 KLDE with about 10 lbs of gook in each valvecover. Fun stuff! Now to find long 12x1.25mm bolts for the engine stand."

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

You got one week until the Dyno day. I think you can have the swap done and turboed by then.

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

This or you fail as grandamasterfabricator

wayne_curr

iTrader: (8)

YES!!!

Cant wait to see how this goes. Been dreaming of a KLDE for a long time.

budget racer

iTrader: (1)

i never had a chance to vote....but it was going to be for the V6. toss in a turbo or 2 and you can retain your "TurboTim - maser fabricator" persona. engine building with your pops sounds awesome. good luck.

Sparetire

I had a big blurb abour AL engines, but it looks like you have some pretty awesome stuff going already. This should be a pretty sweet build thread

kaboshe

iTrader: (15)

kl-de are us spec only.
if it's from a jdm car, you got yourself a curved neck kl-ze

TurboTim

iTrader: (9)

Thanks everyone. Sorry, it won't be installed by next weekend, but it is on an engine stand. Baby steps.

It's not a US spec engine cause the VIN boss is blank/unmolested. 'front' cylinder head cast label is KL-1A1, which according to the internets is a UK spec KLDE. The valve covers have too much sludge to read the cam labels. It's highly likely it'll get all new pistons/rods anyway; as long as the crank is forged and the cam towers aren't scored to ****, I'm good. Next up is scraping all the gunk out of the covers and oil pan then taking it to work to measure it up so i know what to do for a starter/flywheel/bellhousing adapter for the T5z I plan to use.

kaboshe

iTrader: (15)

read the cam's number, kl-a1a are kl-de heads, BUT there is some second Gen kl-ze from UK/jdm that have kl-de head on them.

kl-ze cams are stamped kl31
kl-de cams are kl-01.

to know the bontom end origin, it's suposed to have a number stamped on the side,near the PS pump. take the number and look on google to be sure.
or, take a compression test . 200-210 and you have a kl-ze bontom end
160-180 and you have a DE bonton end

jasonb

+1 4 cylinder w/ compound turbo setup (2560 + 3071gtx). go big or go home.

i would suggest a h1 if they weren't so dang expensive


in the end it will probably be transmission options which decide it i'm thinking...

edit: opps, missed post 67

18psi

iTrader: (76)

if you actually read the thread you'd see the posts directly above yours in which he already bought an engine

m2cupcar

iTrader: (5)

In for the custom bell housing build. I recently came across this and was impressed:
http://projectzerog.com/forum/viewto...=asc&start=300

TurboTim

iTrader: (9)

Hmm Ok I'll look into it more. There is a 6 digit number stamped (more like engraved) onto the block below "KL" by the water pump. i'll google it. I can't compression test it cause I have no starter. As a FWD engine, the starter is on the back side of the flywheel. hence my upcoming stress over a starter solution. Worse case, it'll be a bellhousing adapter to a Turbo RX7 bellhousing/flywheel/clutch/starter to a bellhousing/trans adapter to a T5. but I'm hoping to run mustang flywheel/bellhousing with a rear mount/reverse rotation sprint car starter.

I hear that. I did have a manifold modeled in solidworks for a sequential TT on the 1.8. I even had the 2554 and 56trim 2871 bought, but that was many years ago.

Holy ****. Custom one-off sand cast bellhousing doesn't seem within my scope at the moment. Damn though. Impressive.

gearhead_318

iTrader: (1)

I assume you have already seen this video, but if you haven't I'll post it here: