IAT temps... how hot is too hot?
Turbo 01 1.8, 8 lbs of boost, 58k miles....
Temps have hit ~ 80* lately, my ultra-gauge shows IAT of approximately 40-50*F over ambient. 125* Saturday morning when it was ~ 75 outside.
That'll be 160* in a few months when it hits 100* outside.
Pardon the crappy wrap of the intake, I threw it on as I was leaving for work.. header wrap, poorly applied by me
crapwraplol by jestmaty, on Flickr
Temps have hit ~ 80* lately, my ultra-gauge shows IAT of approximately 40-50*F over ambient. 125* Saturday morning when it was ~ 75 outside.
That'll be 160* in a few months when it hits 100* outside.
Pardon the crappy wrap of the intake, I threw it on as I was leaving for work.. header wrap, poorly applied by me

crapwraplol by jestmaty, on Flickr
Well, the hot *** air coming through the radiator and fans is going to heat up the intake somewhat. There is about a 10" long chunk of aluminum connecting the hoses right at the fan.
Even my new Kia Optima 2.0 turbo engine sees at least 20* above ambient while moving...
Even my new Kia Optima 2.0 turbo engine sees at least 20* above ambient while moving...
I'm sorry, was I supposed to expect anything impressive from a kia? I am confused, what does that change about that jank looking setup with jank results?
Are you running a turbo with no intercooler and seriously wondering why it's on fire?
Are you running a turbo with no intercooler and seriously wondering why it's on fire?
If you have an intercooler and seeing those temps, youre doing something wrong.
Stock, newish Kia, just to use as a reference point.... If a NEW car has somewhat fluctuating IAT that run anywhere from ambient to 'whatever over ambient', then I can extrapolate some of that info to my NB. I also will start monitoring my wife's Kia Soul's intake temps too, just to see if they get so high over ambient.
Jank setup is still a work in progress, I didn't build it. Was told that it was experiencing higher than normal IAT's when I got it, I'm just gathering information.
It has the Bell Engineering intercooler #1 if I recall on it.
Post intercooler, about 2" behind radiator and fan, it blows fkin hot! I'm just trying to keep the heat OFF the aluminum. I GOTTA believe that air coming out of the radiator is heat soaking the aluminum connector pipe?
It's not an exhaust piece, how would YOU insulate from intense heat on that tube?
Still in the works, I THREW that insulation on there to see if it affected the temps............................................. ..............
If it does/did, I'll do it right.
Still being sorted out, it ain't going to look pretty until it's fixed
Post intercooler, about 2" behind radiator and fan, it blows fkin hot! I'm just trying to keep the heat OFF the aluminum. I GOTTA believe that air coming out of the radiator is heat soaking the aluminum connector pipe?
It's not an exhaust piece, how would YOU insulate from intense heat on that tube?
It's not an exhaust piece, how would YOU insulate from intense heat on that tube?
sorry bruh, try again.
You can reorganize this pretty cheaply. Really just look to move the location of the IAT closer to the intercooler and out of the way, or if you have access to someone who welds aluminum, you can have a bung welded to the intercooler end tank. Worst case, Begi sells a coupler with a bung attached you can use and just rework your cold side piping a tad. I don't know what's going on with the BPV, but it should be relatively ok to modify.
I'm personally switching some couplers around for my under tray to work and using the following sources:
2.5" coupler
http://www.bellengineering.net/produ...roducts_id=674
some 90° 2.5" elbows
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/
BEGI reflash....
The IAT sensor is stock I assume, it's post intercooler, about 18"down from the throttle body, right in the line of intense heat coming from the fans. I didn't put it there, it was put there by the builder.
I wonder if it's a false sensor reading, or is it heatsoaked (also giving it a false reading), or if my temps really are that high in winter?
Katy, Texas to be exact. A/C runs every month of the year down here lol
You can reorganize this pretty cheaply. Really just look to move the location of the IAT closer to the intercooler and out of the way, or if you have access to someone who welds aluminum, you can have a bung welded to the intercooler end tank. Worst case, Begi sells a coupler with a bung attached you can use and just rework your cold side piping a tad.
IAT Sensor Adapter Tube
Intercooler Pipe Fabrication
IAT Sensor Adapter Tube
Intercooler Pipe Fabrication

This is still very much a work in progress
IAT sensors are also relatively inexpensive, so if you suspect a faulty one, just replace it to be sure. If it still reads high, suspect heat soak, especially in the location you're describing.
Post pictures from underside routing if you ever get a chance.
Post pictures from underside routing if you ever get a chance.
Also iirc, the begi inlet/outlets are 2.25" so design your charge piping accordingly. That's what it is on my Begi #3 anyhow.
I'm running a 2.25"-2.5" silicone adapter then all the necessary parts to the throttle body. keeping it 2.25 will probably be more than sufficient.
I'm running a 2.25"-2.5" silicone adapter then all the necessary parts to the throttle body. keeping it 2.25 will probably be more than sufficient.







that pic is worth many words lmao
