If you can only have one...
#21
He has the money to blow. He will be in a position to not care about it later. Stop being cheap stingy bastards lololol
Its one thing when a kid is broke or poor and is asking for advice how to pinch pennies.
The OP is obviously not in this situation, and we've offered many cheap(er) alternatives to him already. He's obviously not in a situation where he really needs to penny pinch. So lets move on.
OP:
If you drove a stock 2000 and are tired of the slowness then definitely keep the MSM. I doubt a n/a 01 will be much more fun on the street than a 2000. It has better torque curve but still very weak and boring to drive on normal non-twisty roads. Here's what I'd do (your list modified):
Full 3" exhaust isn't mentioned so I'm guessing you already have one.
Also inconel hardware mandatory if you want to hit the track. So add another 130 or whatever.
How's that look?
Well under 7k and would make for a super fun daily driver/occasional track car 200whp MSM.
Even if you were to add things like the oil cooler and radiator you'd still be well under 8k
Its one thing when a kid is broke or poor and is asking for advice how to pinch pennies.
The OP is obviously not in this situation, and we've offered many cheap(er) alternatives to him already. He's obviously not in a situation where he really needs to penny pinch. So lets move on.
OP:
If you drove a stock 2000 and are tired of the slowness then definitely keep the MSM. I doubt a n/a 01 will be much more fun on the street than a 2000. It has better torque curve but still very weak and boring to drive on normal non-twisty roads. Here's what I'd do (your list modified):
949 Big Grip Kit $3000 yes, because its awesome
TSE Big brakes (brake ducts, pads, etc) $1500 yes, because its awesome
TSE radiator $600 Doubt its necessary unless race car
COT wing $500 again, i'd pass unless race car
front splitter $300 because not race car
clutch/flywheel $700 fm2 is only 400
steering wheel (hub etc) $500 not really needed, but if you must, they are only like 2-300
ECU (wideband etc) $1500 YES, definitely
oil cooler $500 only if race car
SM damper $500 only if race car
fuel pump $100 not needed til about 300hp
square top $600 not needed
Skunk 2 TB $400 not needed
TSE Big brakes (brake ducts, pads, etc) $1500 yes, because its awesome
steering wheel (hub etc) $500 not really needed, but if you must, they are only like 2-300
ECU (wideband etc) $1500 YES, definitely
Also inconel hardware mandatory if you want to hit the track. So add another 130 or whatever.
How's that look?
Well under 7k and would make for a super fun daily driver/occasional track car 200whp MSM.
Even if you were to add things like the oil cooler and radiator you'd still be well under 8k
Last edited by 18psi; 04-24-2013 at 10:56 AM.
#24
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You are lucky to have been blessed with that from birth, then. Some of us had to learn it the hard way.
So you have two guys, both of whom have gone back to post-secondary school later in life, sacrificed in the short term and have found significant success later on.
Definitely don't listen to them. Instant gratification is the way to go.
In all seriousness, I think we are all coming to a sort of consensus which is that, if you can't fully commit to the "short term sacrifice for long term gain" ethos, there should be some compromise of scaling back the goals - and the spending.
I'd agree with 18psi that a basic build of the MSM will make for a nicer street car that may only see the track very rarely. I'd suggest next-to-never for what I am ***uming is going to be your situation (wherein a major failure or wreck will be a major financial setback).
Definitely don't listen to them. Instant gratification is the way to go.
In all seriousness, I think we are all coming to a sort of consensus which is that, if you can't fully commit to the "short term sacrifice for long term gain" ethos, there should be some compromise of scaling back the goals - and the spending.
I'd agree with 18psi that a basic build of the MSM will make for a nicer street car that may only see the track very rarely. I'd suggest next-to-never for what I am ***uming is going to be your situation (wherein a major failure or wreck will be a major financial setback).
#25
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When I went back to school after the Navy (Vanderbilt Law School), I drove a 15 year old hand-me-down Buick and focused on my school work. The result was a job at a top-20 law firm upon graduation.
Incidentally, I also started the company that I currently still work for while in law school. It employs about 150 people. Of all the things I've done, creating a business that provides a livelihood for others and manufactures lifesaving products is definitely my proudest achievement.
Assuming you're going to remain focused on modifying cars as your top priority, I did some edits on your list. To get NA HP, you basically need to free up the intake and exhaust and add engine management. Suspension improvements are worth the coin too. The rest is fluff.
Incidentally, I also started the company that I currently still work for while in law school. It employs about 150 people. Of all the things I've done, creating a business that provides a livelihood for others and manufactures lifesaving products is definitely my proudest achievement.
Assuming you're going to remain focused on modifying cars as your top priority, I did some edits on your list. To get NA HP, you basically need to free up the intake and exhaust and add engine management. Suspension improvements are worth the coin too. The rest is fluff.
None of this is decided yet. I made the thread to get advice and I have gotten plenty of good advice. I really am quite obsessive about making lists of parts that will "finish" my car and I've done that for YEARS now. I'm finally in a position to do it.. but only until the end of this year IF I do go back to school.
Let me give you guys a TLR on the "crappy circumstances" I'm in:
1. Live in town that I don't really like
2. Get really good job, so I buy two cars, and a house.
3. Get straight up ******* lied to about the property the house is on.
4. Multiple altercations (police called) with neighbor on property lines
5. Magic ******* property document shows up 2.5 weeks later saying the stupid **** can park his cars literally five damn feet from where I sleep
6. Blow up at realtors because I very specifically asked about this issue before I bought it
7. Live in a state to where you are fucked if its written on a piece of paper, no matter what the realtor said.
8. Realize I don't want to live in this town, state, or do this job for a long period of time.
9. Consider finishing school
#26
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He has the money to blow. He will be in a position to not care about it later. Stop being cheap stingy bastards lololol
Its one thing when a kid is broke or poor and is asking for advice how to pinch pennies.
The OP is obviously not in this situation, and we've offered many cheap(er) alternatives to him already. He's obviously not in a situation where he really needs to penny pinch. So lets move on.
OP:
If you drove a stock 2000 and are tired of the slowness then definitely keep the MSM. I doubt a n/a 01 will be much more fun on the street than a 2000. It has better torque curve but still very weak and boring to drive on normal non-twisty roads. Here's what I'd do (your list modified):
Full 3" exhaust isn't mentioned so I'm guessing you already have one.
Also inconel hardware mandatory if you want to hit the track. So add another 130 or whatever.
How's that look?
Well under 7k and would make for a super fun daily driver/occasional track car 200whp MSM.
Even if you were to add things like the oil cooler and radiator you'd still be well under 8k
Its one thing when a kid is broke or poor and is asking for advice how to pinch pennies.
The OP is obviously not in this situation, and we've offered many cheap(er) alternatives to him already. He's obviously not in a situation where he really needs to penny pinch. So lets move on.
OP:
If you drove a stock 2000 and are tired of the slowness then definitely keep the MSM. I doubt a n/a 01 will be much more fun on the street than a 2000. It has better torque curve but still very weak and boring to drive on normal non-twisty roads. Here's what I'd do (your list modified):
Full 3" exhaust isn't mentioned so I'm guessing you already have one.
Also inconel hardware mandatory if you want to hit the track. So add another 130 or whatever.
How's that look?
Well under 7k and would make for a super fun daily driver/occasional track car 200whp MSM.
Even if you were to add things like the oil cooler and radiator you'd still be well under 8k
#27
You're on the right track: For 1-3 times a year total track time, it will be fine with what we discussed. If you're paranoid about the stock rad then replace it. I don't think you need the ultra baller crossflow TSE on a mostly street car, but its only a little more than a koyo so might as well go that direction and never worry about it again. Or just get the egay dual row like myself and others are using with excellent results.
#28
The MSM radiator is slightly better than N/A stock radiators. It is about the same efficiency as an egay unit. Honestly you probably do not have the driving skills to push the car hard enough to need the TSE big brake kit. I would just lightly mod the MSM and keep it for the daily. I daily my MSM and modify it. I have had no issues and it is currently putting down 220whp with the stock turbo which is great for a DD. Save the money on all of the track car mods and just address the MSM weaknesses (heavy wheels, slightly soft suspension, shitty ECU, intake/exhaust which you have.) You actually don't even need the clutch and flywheel because the MSM clutch is good to 240whp. I would not replace it unless it starts to slip.
#29
1. Live in town that I don't really like
2. Get really good job, so I buy two cars, and a house.
3. Get straight up ******* lied to about the property the house is on.
4. Multiple altercations (police called) with neighbor on property lines
5. Magic ******* property document shows up 2.5 weeks later saying the stupid **** can park his cars literally five damn feet from where I sleep
6. Blow up at realtors because I very specifically asked about this issue before I bought it
7. Live in a state to where you are fucked if its written on a piece of paper, no matter what the realtor said.
8. Realize I don't want to live in this town, state, or do this job for a long period of time.
9. Consider finishing school
2. Get really good job, so I buy two cars, and a house.
3. Get straight up ******* lied to about the property the house is on.
4. Multiple altercations (police called) with neighbor on property lines
5. Magic ******* property document shows up 2.5 weeks later saying the stupid **** can park his cars literally five damn feet from where I sleep
6. Blow up at realtors because I very specifically asked about this issue before I bought it
7. Live in a state to where you are fucked if its written on a piece of paper, no matter what the realtor said.
8. Realize I don't want to live in this town, state, or do this job for a long period of time.
9. Consider finishing school
Your beef is not with your neighbor. It should be with the real estate company, surveyor and seller.
#1 is a pretty common state of affairs.
#7 is also a pretty common rule, at least since the Statute of Frauds was passed under Elizabeth I.
#8 not sure I would come to that conclusion based upon emotion. Grass is always greener, you know. Depending upon when you bought your house, you might be able to unload it and make some money -- real estate has finally started going up again. You'll be wiser on your next purchase and can get a bigger garage!
#31
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Title insurance? Fraud?
Your beef is not with your neighbor. It should be with the real estate company, surveyor and seller.
#1 is a pretty common state of affairs.
#7 is also a pretty common rule, at least since the Statute of Frauds was passed under Elizabeth I.
#8 not sure I would come to that conclusion based upon emotion. Grass is always greener, you know. Depending upon when you bought your house, you might be able to unload it and make some money -- real estate has finally started going up again. You'll be wiser on your next purchase and can get a bigger garage!
Your beef is not with your neighbor. It should be with the real estate company, surveyor and seller.
#1 is a pretty common state of affairs.
#7 is also a pretty common rule, at least since the Statute of Frauds was passed under Elizabeth I.
#8 not sure I would come to that conclusion based upon emotion. Grass is always greener, you know. Depending upon when you bought your house, you might be able to unload it and make some money -- real estate has finally started going up again. You'll be wiser on your next purchase and can get a bigger garage!
What do you mean by #7?
I'm definitely not going to sell the house unless I make some money off of it. I've only had the house for 1.5 months, though.
#32
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The MSM radiator is slightly better than N/A stock radiators. It is about the same efficiency as an egay unit. Honestly you probably do not have the driving skills to push the car hard enough to need the TSE big brake kit. I would just lightly mod the MSM and keep it for the daily. I daily my MSM and modify it. I have had no issues and it is currently putting down 220whp with the stock turbo which is great for a DD. Save the money on all of the track car mods and just address the MSM weaknesses (heavy wheels, slightly soft suspension, shitty ECU, intake/exhaust which you have.) You actually don't even need the clutch and flywheel because the MSM clutch is good to 240whp. I would not replace it unless it starts to slip.
To fix the MSM weaknesses I already have Enkei PF01 15x8's. I could get Rev's $699 special on MS2E's right now. Then some coilovers. I have Dem768's 350hp intercooler I could put on. I want to replace the intake, though. The FM intake is a retarded design. I could pull it off and sell to help fund a new intake.
The one thing that drives me crazy is not having cruise control, though. I have cruise control on the 01. Is it possible to swap the whole cruise control from an 01 into an 04 MSM?
#34
Well, either you didn't read something (which would be a life-lesson), or one of those entities you're talking to is liable. Of course they're going to tell you you're ****ed. They're not your friend in this. The question is whether your damages are worth enough to hire a lawyer. I'm guessing probably not, which returns us to life-lesson territory.
The Statute of Frauds states that for certain types of transactions (real property transaction in particular -- also transactions above a threshold amount), EVERYTHING has to be in writing. Anything not in writing is void. This was passed under the reign of Elizabeth I in the 16th century. It is a universal law in any country that was once part of the British Empire (including every state within the gool 'ol USA).
Try to be friends with your neighbors. Try to keep perspective. It's a long life (hopefully).
The Statute of Frauds states that for certain types of transactions (real property transaction in particular -- also transactions above a threshold amount), EVERYTHING has to be in writing. Anything not in writing is void. This was passed under the reign of Elizabeth I in the 16th century. It is a universal law in any country that was once part of the British Empire (including every state within the gool 'ol USA).
Try to be friends with your neighbors. Try to keep perspective. It's a long life (hopefully).
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