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Old 08-28-2009, 12:28 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by TurboTim View Post
I have made an FM/BEGI style manifold, yes. Just one so far, but over the winter I hope to get it going again, paired up to my 3" bellmouth downpipe I make for the BEGI kits. And maybe a v-mount intercooler kit...any piece can be used with all Absurdflow stuff or with any BEGI or FM part, ideally. Gonna work with a forum sponsor on it, to include electronics (guess who).

The for sale thread...last post has links to the build thread on the manifold and downpipe.

https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t34745/

EDIT: ehh I'll add all the links.

https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t33356/

https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t23157/
Keep me up to date on the FM/BEGI mani. I'd pay a few extra bucks for a better flowing manifold. The key for me is that it needs to position the turbo in the same spot as the BEGI/FM so that I can use my existing downpipe. I'm assuming this is the case since it is a FM/BEGI replacement.
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Old 08-28-2009, 01:55 AM   #22
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I would have been down for one had I not done this...



Saving my pennies and dreaming of a completely AbsurdVband setup...
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Old 08-28-2009, 09:04 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
Buy me a T25 manifold, turbo and DP and I'll give you my setup with both my turbos.
I'll take you up on that offer...was about to order some T25 parts myself, but would really like to go bigger.

https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t38107/
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Old 08-28-2009, 01:02 PM   #24
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Just for the 1.8l or you gonna do some for the 1.6l as well? Though I take it, that its just a matter of where the bolt holes are at.
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Old 08-28-2009, 02:20 PM   #25
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Old 08-28-2009, 03:00 PM   #26
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What about cocking the turbo clockwise 30 degrees, aiming the intake up and the downpipe down? You could get it directly into the center of the manifold and still have a downpipe straighter than half the men Hustler sleeps with.
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Old 08-28-2009, 03:03 PM   #27
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Everybody sing along!

What rolls down stairs, alone or in pairs, and over your neighbor's dog?

What's great for a snack, and fits on your back, it's log, log log!

It's log, it's log, it's big, it's heavy, it's wood!

It's log, it's log, it's better than bad, it's good!

Everyone wants a log, you're gonna want a log, everybody needs a log [fades out] .....

New! Log for girls!

FROM BLAMMO!!!


LOL, I have plenty of memories of living in a college dorm and being quite drunk while singing along to Ren & Stimpy. Sadly I did NOT have to Google the lyrics just now .... knew 'em cold.
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Old 08-28-2009, 03:05 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by Savington View Post
What about cocking the turbo clockwise 30 degrees, aiming the intake up and the downpipe down? You could get it directly into the center of the manifold and still have a downpipe straighter than half the men Hustler sleeps with.
I posited this exact question a year or two ago. Corky, as well as others, suggested that the center section needed to be no more than 10-15 away from horizontal in order for the oil to drain properly.

Not sure I fully understand why (seems that a bit of oil pooled in the outlet would not cause harm so long as there was no restriction to it exiting) but that's what I was told.
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Old 08-28-2009, 03:07 PM   #29
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you know, it does sound interesting actually
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Old 08-28-2009, 09:13 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Perez View Post
I posited this exact question a year or two ago. Corky, as well as others, suggested that the center section needed to be no more than 10-15 away from horizontal in order for the oil to drain properly.

Not sure I fully understand why (seems that a bit of oil pooled in the outlet would not cause harm so long as there was no restriction to it exiting) but that's what I was told.
I was told the same thing by the garrett people at some trade show years ago. But hey I don't want a bad turbo on my hands due to bad oil drainback/leaky internal oil seals cause it's not per their recommendation, unless the customer specifically asks for it.

EDIT: I have also seen pics of a few year old WRC subie, the turbo was a garrett and vertical. Obviously not some off the shielf piece...it looked like no other turbo i've seen, all sorts of restrictors on the compressor and I guess antilag stuff on the turbine.
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Old 08-28-2009, 09:17 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by Techsalvager View Post
Just for the 1.8l or you gonna do some for the 1.6l as well? Though I take it, that its just a matter of where the bolt holes are at.
I can do it for the 1.6. I can't do a downpipe though; I don't have a 1.6 in my car to build it with.
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Old 10-06-2009, 12:42 AM   #32
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No offense to anyone, I'm obviously a noob (have mercy), but how exactly is this option better than an FM unit? The internal flow seems very similar to me. Yours looks cooler, but that's not a good reason to me.

So is your method just more durable or does it flow better (200 bucks better?) If your mani was the same price, I'd choose it if it offered at least equal abilities as FM, but from the website yours is much more.

Once again, sorry for having to ask dumb questions, but I have mainly seen that these mini almost-tubular logs are better than cast, but not really WHY
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Old 10-06-2009, 01:21 AM   #33
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he was talking about 330bucks for his cheap **** man his absurd flow vband **** like hustler and some run is naturally going to be more expensive than FM or begi but likely alot better quality.
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Old 10-06-2009, 08:44 AM   #34
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Yeah what he said...

Quote:
Originally Posted by kewilso3 View Post
No offense to anyone, I'm obviously a noob (have mercy), but how exactly is this option better than an FM unit? The internal flow seems very similar to me. Yours looks cooler, but that's not a good reason to me.

So is your method just more durable or does it flow better (200 bucks better?) If your mani was the same price, I'd choose it if it offered at least equal abilities as FM, but from the website yours is much more.

Once again, sorry for having to ask dumb questions, but I have mainly seen that these mini almost-tubular logs are better than cast, but not really WHY
The initial post in this thread was for an idea for an inexpensive log manifold; it would not be any better than the FM piece which is $395, in fact it'd be worse. Plus ARTech sells the same thing for $250ish with similar or better quality as me so that ends this cheap log manifold idea. And he's more pleasant to deal with I'm sure.

My standard mild steel ABSURDflow low mount manifold @ $500 is worth $105 more than the FM piece, obviously I'm biased however, and I have never seen an FM manifold in person...haha. I think it flows better and that's worth at least $105. I also think my FM replacement tubular manifold at $550 (mild) is worth it over the FM piece too. If you don't agree, that's perfectly fine, I don't have the time to make them anyway.
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Old 10-06-2009, 09:40 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by TurboTim View Post
Yeah what he said...


I also think my FM replacement tubular manifold at $550 (mild) is worth it over the FM piece too. If you don't agree, that's perfectly fine, I don't have the time to make them anyway.
Why is it better though? Because it's yours? Here's a hypothetical situation: If your (or any) tubular replacement is internally exactly the same as a cast unit, it it better for any other reason? Thanks... I'm really trying to learn here
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Old 10-06-2009, 10:30 AM   #36
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Why is it better though? Because it's yours? Here's a hypothetical situation: If your (or any) tubular replacement is internally exactly the same as a cast unit, it it better for any other reason? Thanks... I'm really trying to learn here
Yep, it's better cause it's mine. ALL MINE!!!

For your hypothetical situation, if the insides are the same, then the cast is better because it should be more durable (no welds), unless the casting is crap but I doubt FM's or BEGI's castings are junk. Plus the flange surfaces are machined after casting to be nice 'n flat 'n parallel. Or...the tubular is better because it's lighter if that's more important to you.

But the guts of my tubular manifold(s) isn't(arn't) the same shape as the BEGI piece and I doubt it's the same as the FM piece.

If I were real cool or smart I'd get my manifold(s) cast.

EDIT: You could make a tubular manifold out of stainless or whatever other fancy alloy you want, add features where you want them to be (EWG locations, EGT bungs, flange types, etc), whereas with the cast you are sorta stuck with what they sell unless they are willing to cast a small run in whatever fancy material you want.
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Old 10-06-2009, 10:47 AM   #37
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Originally Posted by kewilso3 View Post
Why is it better though? Because it's yours? Here's a hypothetical situation: If your (or any) tubular replacement is internally exactly the same as a cast unit, it it better for any other reason? Thanks... I'm really trying to learn here
Well, since switching to Tim's stuff, my manifold doesn't warp, I make more power and torque at lower rpm, and it doesn't require maintenance. I just a paper pusher, but my experience suggests that cast parts don't work well on track cars.
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Old 10-06-2009, 10:47 AM   #38
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Tim, you should do a cast, v-band manifold from SS, like TiAL. That would be super-baller, and purple. I don't really know what to think about the warping issue I had though.
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Old 10-06-2009, 11:01 AM   #39
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Tim, you should do a cast, v-band manifold from SS, like TiAL. That would be super-baller, and purple. I don't really know what to think about the warping issue I had though.
For what, all of 5 people maybe? nah. I wouldn't sell anything without guaranteeing it forever, and if the casting sucks that'd be a whole lotta castings to eat. I'm already in the hole a bunch the way things are
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Old 10-06-2009, 11:08 AM   #40
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For what, all of 5 people maybe? nah. I wouldn't sell anything without guaranteeing it forever, and if the casting sucks that'd be a whole lotta castings to eat. I'm already in the hole a bunch the way things are
So far you're the only one with a track tested option that is anywhere near working properly.

That sucks about the ching-dow...but my life is a lot happier with hot-parts that seem to stay together. I'm trying to get another test in this weekend at one of two tracks depending upon rain.
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