So I've left the GReddy turbo crowd, but no fear, I've sold it to a friend of mine who is going to be putting it on his car, with a bunch of other mods (I know you are lurking here) Anyways, I'm about to install the Innovate LC-1 into my car, and was thinking of replacing the NB02 with the innovate and simulating NB with the LC-1.

Has anyone done this? I've heard it reacts slower, but is it problematic? The bung is about 6" in front of the cat, and I'm now N/A, so heat isn't a concern.

Where can I find the pinouts for the 1.6 ECU? since I'm using a patch in harness, I'd figure I'd tap into that.

Even though I'm N/A if we ever get the MT.net stickers made, I'd hella rock it. This board is the best Miata board!!!

 

lots of people have done it.

connect the 0-5v output to 2N (Red\Blue)

 

2N is the O2 wire on a 1.6 ECU and the location can be found on the first post in this thread:

https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/showthread.php?t=581

 

You are too quick, Scott

 

sorry!

 

Braineack is the shizz, so is Olderguy. BTW, which pins are ground and 12V (not constant, when key is in III <engine running> postion?)

 

I've simulated narrowband with the LC-1 for a month now with no problems.

 

and yes, Braineack is the shizz! I don't know how he pulls this stuff out so fast!

 

Ground = blk 2A, blk 2B, blk/lt 2C, or blk/lt 2D I believe

 

12V acc?

 

Do you want accessory or engine running?

 

Those grounds go to different places. Only 1 is appropriate. You need to look at the wiring chart to determine which is correct.

The early miata grounds suck. I couldn't get rid of a ground offset no matter what, so I ended up running new grounds. Made a big difference.

 

Older guy, Switched 12V source, which I guess means Accessory yes?

Ben, Where did you run new grounds to?

 

I don't remember what I did, and didn't take pictures or notes. I want to say that the ecu grounds are 2A and 2B, and I relocated them to the engine block along with some other grounds. And IIRC the ecu gets its key on +12V at 1B. That's from memory, so look at the wiring diagram and probe with a dmm or testlamp before making connections.

I used this wiring diagram for help:
http://www.madracki.com/miata/images/wiring/91diag.pdf

 

If you have ability to fuse the WBO2 line, I would tap off a blue line coming off the ignition(goes to ignition coil, ignitor, and engine fuse). This would give you a high capacity line that would not draw down voltage to other components as the heater circuit cycles.

 

So quick question about the LC-1. Can i have it simulate the narrowband for my stock ecu and still do wideband for my Megasquirt?

 

yes, there are two outputs so if you ran a separate wire to the megasquirt you could do that. Right now i have the first output going to an anolouge gauge sending a wideband output, and the second going to the ecu wire sending a narrowband output. Also if you are using an FPR, you can modify the narrowband output to tell the stock ecu that its running lean to offset the effects of "lean tip-in". That is what I have done and it helped a bit.

 

Dredging up this old thread for a quick question, I'm hooking up my AEM wideband at the moment and was following FM's instructions, so I have the switched 12 volts and ground already hooked up at the ecu wiring harness (I'm installing my serial gauge at the same time) and I was wondering if I could simply tap into the o2 wire instead of fooling with removing a ecu terminal and cutting a copper trace, etc, as FM says in their instructions. Also, they state the 90-93 wbo2 comes in on terminal 2P which disagrees with what you guys were saying. Help me out guys ><.

 

Hmm well I hooked up the wideband to 2N like you guys did, and it started and ran but the ratio is jumping all over the place, and is well over 17 at idle. Perhaps I do have to pull the terminal :(.

 

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