Inspecting a NA6 turbo tomorrow
#1
Inspecting a NA6 turbo tomorrow
Hey guys,
For the past month or so I have been reading and reading, reading and reading, and reading about turbo set ups and the like.
I am still confused about how well specific components work together and how to set it up well.
Tomorrow I will be looking at a turbo na6, long nose engine which is good, but I wanted to get some feedback from you guys as to how good this set up is. From how the ad was made and the detail of the car it is obvious the owner is passionate about 5s.
Basically, does this set up seem reliable, safe and efficient to you? It does for me
The art of tuning is a blur to me right now, even after a few lengthy MS class tutorial videos, so getting some graphs from the owner (power runs, afm, etc) would be the right thing to do yes? What in particular do I need to ask for.
1.6L Stock Long Nose B6
125kw - 360NM - 13PSI (can make more power with retune as running rich)
A/C Installed
No P/S
Walbro Pump 255
RX8 Yellow Injectors
Nitro Dann Turbo Kit / 3 Inch Exhaust System
S13 T25 Turbo
52mm eBay Aluminum Radiator
Coolant Re-Route Kit
LS2 COP (Beavis Kit)
TurboSmart Dual Port 42mm BOV
MegaSquirt V2
5KG Lighten Flywheel
Xtreme HD Clutch
Open Diff
Innovative MXL Wideband Sensor
Mongoose M60 Alarm (Turbo Timer)
My short term goals would be to install a torsen diff, flow force injectors, non ebay radiator, retune to try get 225rwhp (170kw) to create a demon.
From there I would build a 1.8 on the side as a little project.
Cheers guys
For the past month or so I have been reading and reading, reading and reading, and reading about turbo set ups and the like.
I am still confused about how well specific components work together and how to set it up well.
Tomorrow I will be looking at a turbo na6, long nose engine which is good, but I wanted to get some feedback from you guys as to how good this set up is. From how the ad was made and the detail of the car it is obvious the owner is passionate about 5s.
Basically, does this set up seem reliable, safe and efficient to you? It does for me
The art of tuning is a blur to me right now, even after a few lengthy MS class tutorial videos, so getting some graphs from the owner (power runs, afm, etc) would be the right thing to do yes? What in particular do I need to ask for.
1.6L Stock Long Nose B6
125kw - 360NM - 13PSI (can make more power with retune as running rich)
A/C Installed
No P/S
Walbro Pump 255
RX8 Yellow Injectors
Nitro Dann Turbo Kit / 3 Inch Exhaust System
S13 T25 Turbo
52mm eBay Aluminum Radiator
Coolant Re-Route Kit
LS2 COP (Beavis Kit)
TurboSmart Dual Port 42mm BOV
MegaSquirt V2
5KG Lighten Flywheel
Xtreme HD Clutch
Open Diff
Innovative MXL Wideband Sensor
Mongoose M60 Alarm (Turbo Timer)
My short term goals would be to install a torsen diff, flow force injectors, non ebay radiator, retune to try get 225rwhp (170kw) to create a demon.
From there I would build a 1.8 on the side as a little project.
Cheers guys
#2
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Mod list sounds fine to me.
you just need to inspect the car to make sure it's in good shape, and do a compression check in the engine. Otherwise sounds fine.
I would personally rather start with a 1.8 car.
you just need to inspect the car to make sure it's in good shape, and do a compression check in the engine. Otherwise sounds fine.
I would personally rather start with a 1.8 car.
#4
I daily a turbo 1.6 and it's reliable and lots of fun. Like others have said, a 1.8 is a FAR better starting point. Any 1.6 that gets a big power bump needs to be upgraded to "at least" 1.8 specs from the standpoint of running gear and brakes. You already mentioned a Torsen. Has the owner done any brake upgrades? Plus, if you swap to a 1.8 later, you're looking at changing the engine, manifold, exhaust and lots of electronic bits.
Beyond that, the 1.6 cars (at least in the USA) are all antiques, so what I'd focus on is chassis condition. Rust, evidence of a abusive life from inspecting the frame rails and other undercar structure, etc. Same as buying any old car.
If you're really after power and are planning to upgrade to a 1.8 anyway, I think you should pass and start with a clean 1.8 car. If you just want a fun, cheap car to drive around, then by all means . . . .
Beyond that, the 1.6 cars (at least in the USA) are all antiques, so what I'd focus on is chassis condition. Rust, evidence of a abusive life from inspecting the frame rails and other undercar structure, etc. Same as buying any old car.
If you're really after power and are planning to upgrade to a 1.8 anyway, I think you should pass and start with a clean 1.8 car. If you just want a fun, cheap car to drive around, then by all means . . . .
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