Intercooler cooling spray with windshield nozzle?
#1
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Intercooler cooling spray with windshield nozzle?
I no longer use my windshield washer with the FM hood. I was thinking about rerouting the hose to the front of the intercooler and using one windshield washer nozzle to spray onto the intercooler at high boost to prevent intercooler heat soak on track. I am using one of those fine spray pattern Mazda washer nozzles, not a factory Miata nozzle, so the spray pattern is much finer and more dispersed. I was going to use a pressure engaged microswitch to turn on the pump at say 8-10 psi. Has anyone else done or considered doing something similar? I really don't want something else to tune, but I thought it might be a good idea so the intercooler doesn't heat soak during a 20 minute track session.
#6
At the speeds he's traveling, it'd be lucky to hit the ground - especially in sofla. I was cruising on an overcast day and noticed the second there was a some rain starting to fall my AIT temps dropped 6c. Don't know how much of that was moisture in the air going thru the intake, but surely some of it was a cooling effect on the IC - no?
#7
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I think it's a good idea to battle a bit of heatsoak. I've never heard of one being any sort of concern on the track. a bit a spilled water is nothing to worry about, most will evaporate instantly, the rest wont last one lap of traffic.
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I posted the same question at M.net, my final decisions are there. Basically a pressure switch from McMaster, a single small fogger nozzle from Home Depot, some 1/4" microtube, and a flow adjuster from HD as well. I don't want a lot of flow, just a little to keep IC temps down while on track, for insurance, not power. I also don't want the headache of filling tanks again. I think the OEM washer tank is 1/2 gallon and I'm not adding anything else. No more weight on the car darnit.
I did think about the Hydra controlling the water flow based on air temp instead of boost pressure. I am going to call FM to see how difficult it is to wire that up. If it's a PITA I'll stick with my original plan of just a small pressure switch. I figure engagement around 8-10psi would be good since the temps are going to climb at that boost anyway, maybe 10psi. I am seeing 10psi at 6500rpm, 10.5 at 7100, around 8.7 between 3000-5000. I have to re-review the datalogs for more accurate info. I know I would have to tune additional cells in the Hydra fuel map with the IC spray on since without it those cells probably aren't going to be hit while running. Just do it on the dyno.
I did think about the Hydra controlling the water flow based on air temp instead of boost pressure. I am going to call FM to see how difficult it is to wire that up. If it's a PITA I'll stick with my original plan of just a small pressure switch. I figure engagement around 8-10psi would be good since the temps are going to climb at that boost anyway, maybe 10psi. I am seeing 10psi at 6500rpm, 10.5 at 7100, around 8.7 between 3000-5000. I have to re-review the datalogs for more accurate info. I know I would have to tune additional cells in the Hydra fuel map with the IC spray on since without it those cells probably aren't going to be hit while running. Just do it on the dyno.
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what? the goal of the pre ic wi is to reduce the chance of heatsoak under hard use. The ic can only bring charge air down to ambient. the only way for the water to come out of the charge air is if the air cools down enough where it can't retain the added moisture.
my ms will fire the spray based on rpm, manifold air temp, and manifold pressure. the spray is just to counteract heat soak. i don't understand the problem.
my ms will fire the spray based on rpm, manifold air temp, and manifold pressure. the spray is just to counteract heat soak. i don't understand the problem.
#14
listen to Rick he might have had a m45 in the past but he wised up and got a mp62 now + he has dabbled abit in WI. WI pre IC is bad puddles= rust, if steal or just plain metal comming apart if alluminum in the long run. The better option would be to have it coupled with the post IC ait to bring your temps down once they reach a point where the IC is not working properly. All FMIC people should realy do it this way i feel it would be the most effecient use of it. Then when the IC has cooled the H20 can stop and you have nothing to worry about. Also this would work for people running a IC that was to small for there aplication and allow them to run more boost and HP but enough heat needs to be in the system to keep the water vaporized and velocity to keep it suspended otherwise it wont be quite as effective. Flame front quench etc becomes a major issue in these events.
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it's a fine mist, it won't pool. It will get asobored in the charge just before the IC and cool it down a bit, the intercooler will be cooling the charge the rest of the way to ambient.
if I ever went with something like that, it would probably be set to trigger at 5000rpm, 10psi, and +100°F IAT
if I ever went with something like that, it would probably be set to trigger at 5000rpm, 10psi, and +100°F IAT
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I guess the internal corrosion of the aluminum would also be a concern. Tell you what, when I had the JRSC and was shooting WI before and after the blower, I could see the aluminum corrosion starting on the throttle body and in the aluminum inlet pipe. Pissed me off. Dunno if that was because it was a water/methanol mix, but it still started the aluminum corrosion process, esp since it was engaging all the time on street and track. I was using 2x60cc nozzles, the smallest ones I could find at the time, and 100psi of pump pressure, so the mist was pretty fine.
Besides, if you are going to do WI in addition to the IC, then you really won't have any air heating issues. Give Gary at TDR or FM a call and see what they say and let us know.
Besides, if you are going to do WI in addition to the IC, then you really won't have any air heating issues. Give Gary at TDR or FM a call and see what they say and let us know.
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I think the only place, other than an OT event or AX, where I can really test the AITs and the IC sprayer is on the dyno. There's not enough room even on the highway to test without getting into trouble.
#19
Scot if i ever head to virginia i will hook up a WI system on your car for you and you will see the light. Post IC though for real. The more turns you ask the mix to make they more of it that will get lost on the way into the motor. Just like running a carburator or extra injector in place of your afm it wont work as well as it would closer to the tB.
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you're totally not feeling me dawg.
i want something to reduce intercooler heat soak. there seem to be 2 ways of doing this with water, either misting it towards the outside of the intercooler, or inject some water into the charge air pre intercooler. the later seems to be the more efficient way.
if i add WI post intercooler, it does nothing to address the problem of intercooler heat soak. i am not interested in relying on WI to save my motor under hard use. i would like to offset the chance of heatsoak (which did happen on the dyno), to keep power, BUT if I do get heatsoaked, the MS pulls timing. And if we get closed loop boost sorted, it will pull boost with MAT.
**I can see corrosion as a legitimate concern** however I plan to inject very small amounts of water into the extremely hot charge air, and I have the ability to run a 3d map to turn on the spray only when it's needed. Chances are the water will stay in the air all the way through combustion.
i want something to reduce intercooler heat soak. there seem to be 2 ways of doing this with water, either misting it towards the outside of the intercooler, or inject some water into the charge air pre intercooler. the later seems to be the more efficient way.
if i add WI post intercooler, it does nothing to address the problem of intercooler heat soak. i am not interested in relying on WI to save my motor under hard use. i would like to offset the chance of heatsoak (which did happen on the dyno), to keep power, BUT if I do get heatsoaked, the MS pulls timing. And if we get closed loop boost sorted, it will pull boost with MAT.
**I can see corrosion as a legitimate concern** however I plan to inject very small amounts of water into the extremely hot charge air, and I have the ability to run a 3d map to turn on the spray only when it's needed. Chances are the water will stay in the air all the way through combustion.