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Old 06-25-2010, 12:48 AM   #21
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You're biggest goal at first should be a nice stable idle and proper AFR.

At idle listen carefully for any misfires, if so you'll want to richen that area up. This varies by car, some can idle just fine at 15 while others may need more fuel. Mine for instance idles just right at around 14.2.

The AFR's while driving are pretty simple: 14.7 at cruise (some people like to run a little more lean for MPG), 13.5 around 0 vacuum, 12.5 around low boost (4-8lbs) and a little more rich in high boost.

Work your way into boost. Start with small drives and watch the little blue dot on the VE table. Try to hit all the cells while staying out of boost. For instance, let your boost gauge sit around 10lbs vacuum and let the car rev to 4 or 5K. Then, when your AFRs are correct and stable you can start adding a little boost.

If you're using VE Analyze Live make sure you stop occasionally and burn the results so it has a new base to work with. Also, don't let VE Analyze attempt to tune idle; so set the low RPM limit to 1500.
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Old 06-25-2010, 12:49 AM   #22
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It takes a while but it will become clear with time. On that note, I'm spent, check back tomorrow. There should be more opinions. In the mean time, check your wideband settings and make sure everything looks good. You have to have reliable AFRs in order to tune otherwise it will be a fruitless endeavor.
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Old 06-25-2010, 12:50 AM   #23
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Oh yeah forgot to mention, MY MPG IS BAD.


22 on highway, 21 in city....
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Old 06-25-2010, 12:50 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lordrigamus View Post
You have to have reliable AFRs in order to tune otherwise it will be a fruitless endeavor.
+1000
If your physical gauge and virtual gauge are showing different numbers then none of this is doing you any good. If they're off by more than .4 or so you need to check your settings.


Ok, so when you're just cruising at 60 mph what does your LC-1 Read?
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Old 06-25-2010, 12:51 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by d.dutton9512 View Post
you're biggest goal at first should be a nice stable idle and proper afr.

At idle listen carefully for any misfires, if so you'll want to richen that area up. This varies by car, some can idle just fine at 15 while others may need more fuel. Mine for instance idles just right at around 14.2.

The afr's while driving are pretty simple: 14.7 at cruise (some people like to run a little more lean for mpg), 13.5 around 0 vacuum, 12.5 around low boost (4-8lbs) and a little more rich in high boost.

Work your way into boost. Start with small drives and watch the little blue dot on the ve table. Try to hit all the cells while staying out of boost. For instance, let your boost gauge sit around 10lbs vacuum and let the car rev to 4 or 5k. Then, when your afrs are correct and stable you can start adding a little boost.

If you're using ve analyze live make sure you stop occasionally and burn the results so it has a new base to work with. Also, don't let ve analyze attempt to tune idle; so set the low rpm limit to 1500.
+1
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Old 06-25-2010, 12:51 AM   #26
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So VE Analyze Live tunes the car auto or what?
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Old 06-25-2010, 12:54 AM   #27
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So VE Analyze Live tunes the car auto or what?
It tunes it according to your AFR targets. It will attempt to make your car run at the values set. However it will do so within parameters and take into consideration your past numbers. As you drive it will compare the targets to the gauge readings and decide whether or not a VE cell needs adjustment.

So if your AFR target is 14.7 and the car is running at 13 it will only change the value so much and it may or may not make it perfect. However a few good runs while running VEA should get things close.

It's not magic though: you'll still have some hand tuning to do.

You also need to read up on EGO correction. This is the system built into the MS unit itself which modifies your fuel on the fly. It should be covered in that post I PM'ed you.
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Old 06-25-2010, 03:11 AM   #28
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Went out with a buddy and did the auto tune. Kinda fun trying to cover all the spots and what not...
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Old 06-26-2010, 12:15 PM   #29
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You need to chase the grounds on your LC-1 and make sure they go to the same chunk of metal, on separate lugs on the engine.
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Old 06-26-2010, 12:22 PM   #30
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on separate lugs on the engine.
Really? I run them so the exact same grounding point. I wonder if that would explain the .3-.6 difference I get.
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Old 06-26-2010, 03:12 PM   #31
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Really? I run them so the exact same grounding point. I wonder if that would explain the .3-.6 difference I get.
Yes, your inability to follow the directions has most likely caused the inaccurate reading.
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Old 06-26-2010, 03:20 PM   #32
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Thanks for the info. I'll fix it tonight.

Although I'm not really sure what directions you are reading. According to DIY's site:

" You should ground the wideband's main ground together WITH the ECU."

and

" I'd suggest leaving the factory connection alone and sinply putting a ring terminal on the wire you need to ground for your wideband, grab a new nut, and add your ring terminal on top of this one leaving the old connection just as it was."

and

"Instead, ground the wideband under the hood right at the source where the ECU harness itself gets it's ground."

But hey, everyone has their interpretation...
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Old 06-26-2010, 04:53 PM   #33
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Hustler is probably referring to the instructions in the one of the MS manuals.

http://www.megamanual.com/mtabcon.htm

Tons of info, great for reference and links to subsections and code variants.

http://www.msextra.com/doc/index.html

Manual for the extra codes.

Last edited by lordrigamus; 06-26-2010 at 05:12 PM.
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Old 06-27-2010, 01:43 AM   #34
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Read the LC-1 instructions.
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Old 06-27-2010, 01:49 AM   #35
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I use an AEM
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Old 06-27-2010, 02:04 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hustler View Post
Read the LC-1 instructions.
Them too.

Damn it, I should read before I post. Read the AEM ones too.
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