See, here's the thing: Everyone talks about user error and improper installation, yet I still have yet to see the definitive, 100% guaranteed-to-work install guide. Hell, even the instructions that come in the box has conflicting information so no matter how it's installed, one can argue it's installed incorrectly!
Here is some of the variations in grounding I have read about:

1. Install with both grounds on the same lug to ecu ground. It seems most people think this is the proper install, but if you read the manual carefully, this is not recommended unless you're willing to cut the ecu ground and solder it into the same lug as the LC-1 grounds.
2. Install with grounds in different lugs, but on the same bolt as ecu ground. (Not recommended per the manual.)
3. Install with grounds in different lugs, with the controller ground to the ecu bolt, and the heater ground on a different bolt, but close by.
4. Install with grounds in different lugs with the controller on the ecu bolt and the heater ground far away.
5. Always solder.
6. Never solder, always crimp.

In addition to this, some say power needs to be on while cranking, others say power should be off while cranking because of voltage fluctuations. There one guy on the Innovate forum using a motorcycle battery as a power source for the LC-1 to avoid voltage fluctuations & recalibration problems! WTF?

I actually want to use the LC-1; thats why I bought it. I really didn't want to install a gauge as I'm trying to stay stealthy. I thought I could just install & calibrate once and just let the MSPNP communicate with it to maintain tune.

I'm building my car with the intent to make as much reliable power as possible with as few maintenance hassles as possible. It kinda sounds like a lot of LC-1 users are holding their breath, waiting for the other shoe to drop...

Before I make any decisions I want to hear from AEM owners. I've started a new thread here

I unsuccessfully tried to include my own text but miltiquote is a ---- and I have too many fathersday beers in me. So:

I will happily stand corrected, and thanks for the e-substantiation; it’s tough to argue against.

Although I will note that when I originally powered my LC-1 with a not-hot-during-cranking lead from the power windows pigtail, I experienced repeated involuntary resets. These resets, made fairly obvious by the LED flickering during cranking, suggested the +12 was insufficient. Once the +12 was sourced from a lead which was hot in cranking, all such problems left.

I guess it’s a finicky tool?

Not sure here, but I'd guess that something which serves such a critical purpose should be calibrated regularly.

I would like to know this too...I bought from ebay and also have the 6 wire version! :eek5:

:vash: low power due to battery, not installation. :bang:

But seriously, the LC1 is very reliable if installed correctly

How about everyone that has had no problems for an extended period of time makes a short write-up of how they wired it. That way we can see if there are some common themes that lead to trouble free performance.

There was a bad batch that went out a while ago - Innovate has been replacing those at no charge. I'm using an LC-1 myself. I had the LED die on mine but no other real problems - other than finding out the hard way it won't communicate with a laptop if you lose the terminator plug (there's a long story about a misunderstanding that caused, since it sometimes would communicate when the plug was missing, once in a blue moon.)

Isnt that what I said?

All grounds wired to the same point on the engine block (ground by the throttle body) using separate wires for each:
- MS ground
- All LC-1 grounds
- Analog dash gauge ground (I am using the Innovate AFR gauge).

LC-1 power wire connected to the radio position on the fuse panel using a add-a-circuit connector; this lead is off during engine cranking. I just did this mod, so far so good. Before it was wired to a lead that was hot during cranking.

LED and calibration button hooked up per the LC-1 instructions.

All wires soldered and shinkwrapped with soldered lugs at the ground termination points.

WBO2 sensor installed in the down pipe only 4-5 inches from the cat flange. Sensor bung is in the 12 o'clock position.

I added a copper heatsink to the sensor as described in the LC-1 manual due to occasional #8 overheat errors. It helped the problem. Mine is smaller than what they recommend since I could not get a big enough piece of copper easily. I might put in a larger one soon.

Analog gauge and MS (monitored in Megatune) agree within 0.1-0.2 AFR points of each other.

Mine has been working great for a year now.

I had one fail on me, had a new one within 2 weeks under warranty. Great customer service. I bought it on Aug '06; failed May '07. Over 12K since then.

No issues with this one, Power and grounds directly off my boomslang harness, no led or calibration BS.


I've installed 2 Uegos, while it's simpler, I'd would go LC-1 again and always recommend them over the AEM.

All ground wires crimped onto a ring connector and grounded to the bolt that holds on the diagnostic box. 4gauge wire running from there to the engine block itself.

Power from the little blue connector right near the SRS junction (orange and light blue connectors) on the drivers side.

Connected the signal wire to the O2 sensor single wire going to the ECU.
Connected second signal wire to a narrow band gauge and Panel LED for AFR monitoring.

LED and Momentary switch wired in according to manual.

I have had no problems other than the low cranking power issue I previously mentioned which was remedied with a new battery.

All this ground offset stuff is very minimal, at least from what I have seen.

Thank you thank you thank you! Sounds like that is my problem..

holy smokes, me too. i'll have to do some research to see if mine is affected.

Alright, heres how I wired mine, the LC-1 has about 22 k miles on it.

The ground is secured to the chassis, where I sanded off the paint and bolted the wires down.

For power im using the blue connector by the driver side headlight.

I have the control box right under the clutch master cylinder.

The sensor is about 2 to 3 feet away from the turbo.

And thats it, works great!

hhhmmmmmmmmmm...........:confused:

Why have I never heard of this blue connector you speak of....?

Is that the plastic blue one with the short ass wire thats by the firewall? Is this a preferred place to pull power from? WTF is that little bitch for?

Vash-

Its right near the headlight. Mine had the matching clip (male) to plug into the female side. I just put a spade connector in the male side and crimped my wire then plugged it in.

It is a plastic connector thats about a inch by a inch big, usually have a male connector in it to seal it up, and has one wire going to it. It is a good 12v source.

It IS NOT the blue and orange connector. That is for the airbags, dont mess with it!

Yea, tapping the srs system would be horribly bad.

I removed the whole airbag system and sold it on ebay....:)

I always wondered WTF the blue connector was for. Good to know its another power source. Mine is just the female end, I thought it was a diagnostics deal.

Vash-