LC1 problems again.....
This thing is a piece of shit. I am starting to really get pissed at it.
Now I got a new problem. Just started out of the blue. The LC1 would report accurate readings on both the gauge and the megasquirt. It will work for 15 min and then go erratic and stop sendings readings to both gauge and MS. The gauges AFR reading would slowly increase by .1 from the last good functioning reading, and the megasquirt just dies with 10afr. If I restart the car, maybe it will work for another 5 min and then the same shit happens again. No clue what the hell, but im gonna go home today, reflash the firm, pull the damn sensor again to recalibrate and pray it works because this thing is a nuisance. |
Sensor overheat
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Originally Posted by Ben
(Post 186884)
Sensor overheat
Otherwise I am basically experiencing the same problem that 1 out of 2 people on innovate support board has. I didnt do one thing and that was look to see if I get a blink code once this happens. But if it blinks 8 times, then its definitely the same issue. |
+1.
Where is the sensor located? |
Originally Posted by Joe Perez
(Post 186887)
+1.
Where is the sensor located? It worked for 2 weeks before this though. If it is error 8, which is overheating, but can also mean sensor damage according to their site. I doubt its overheating, especially if I drove it for 2 weeks without a single hickup since I fixed my grounds. |
WTF dude, why are you so goddam stubborn. E8 is caused BY SENSOR OVERHEAT. If you're not going to listen, stop asking. There is nothing wrong with your LC1, other than its user.
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Originally Posted by Ben
(Post 186889)
WTF dude, why are you so goddam stubborn. E8 is caused BY SENSOR OVERHEAT. If you're not going to listen, stop asking. There is nothing wrong with your LC1, other than its user.
Explain why this is happening now when I didnt have any issues for 2 weeks. If It was overheating it would have made itself evident when I was tuning it, taking it to red line and logging, not sitting idleing in my driveway trying to tune my idle. |
Because you damaged the sensor over 2 weeks and now it's more sensitive.
Because you drive your car harder now than you did 2 weeks ago. Because it's colder outside now, so you're getting a denser charge, making more power and thus higher EGT Because you put the bitch in the stock location, despite the fact that you've been told to put it at the back of the downpipe with a heatsink--by me, others, and by the manual.
Originally Posted by TFM
On TURBO CHARGED vehicles:
Install the bung downstream from the turbo before the catalytic converter. The high exhaust pressure before the turbo interferes with the lambda measurement and the high exhaust temperatures encountered there can damage the sensor.Stop bashing a perfectly good product that only doesn't work because of UE. |
I dont have a turbo installed.
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Fine. It's still overheating.
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Originally Posted by Ben
(Post 186895)
Fine. It's still overheating.
What are the factory EGT's the engine emits? I bet they arent higher then the limits of this sensor. |
It's fucking overheating
2 weeks ago it was less degraded than now |
Originally Posted by Ben
(Post 186897)
It's fucking overheating
Well then I have no clue what to do now. I cant use it anymore period, until I get a turbo. So much for tuning before a turbo to learn how it works. If it was overheating, it would have gone ape shit way before. From the first overheat it would have thrown a code, thats what I believe. |
Turbo or not, you need to get a bung welded in further down the exhaust stream.
C |
Well, you could read the manual. Specifically the page that shows you how to make a heat sink. Or you could purchase the HBX-1 Heat Sink Bung Extender. Or you could use the included weld on bung to relocate the sensor further down the downpipe.
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Originally Posted by chriscar
(Post 186899)
Turbo or not, you need to get a bung welded in further down the exhaust stream.
C |
Listen, let's try an experiment.
Go thee forth to Ye Olde' Local Exhaust Shoppe, and purchase an O2 sensor bung. Shouldn't cost but a few shillings. Install said bung into the midpipe in what we consider the "standard" location, which is about a foot before the catalytic converter, pointing straight up. Then, fabricate a heatsink using the method described in the LC-1 manual- just a piece of flat metal stock (copper or aluminum) bent into a flattened U shape and installed between the sensor and the bung. Try that, and see if the problem persists. |
Joe, the LC1 even includes a weld on bung with the kit.
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Originally Posted by Ben
(Post 186900)
Well, you could read the manual. Specifically the page that shows you how to make a heat sink. Or you could purchase the HBX-1 Heat Sink Bung Extender. Or you could use the included weld on bung to relocate the sensor further down the downpipe.
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Originally Posted by Ben
(Post 186901)
LOL, the NEWB used his first post to get on the bandwagon...
Nissan NX2000 w/T28 dyno'd at 297 whp. :naughty: C |
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