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Old 12-18-2007, 12:23 PM   #1
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Default LC1 problems again.....

This thing is a piece of ****. I am starting to really get pissed at it.

Now I got a new problem. Just started out of the blue.

The LC1 would report accurate readings on both the gauge and the megasquirt. It will work for 15 min and then go erratic and stop sendings readings to both gauge and MS. The gauges AFR reading would slowly increase by .1 from the last good functioning reading, and the megasquirt just dies with 10afr.

If I restart the car, maybe it will work for another 5 min and then the same **** happens again.

No clue what the hell, but im gonna go home today, reflash the firm, pull the damn sensor again to recalibrate and pray it works because this thing is a nuisance.
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Old 12-18-2007, 12:26 PM   #2
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Sensor overheat
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Old 12-18-2007, 12:31 PM   #3
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Sensor overheat
Worked fine for like 2 weeks though.

Otherwise I am basically experiencing the same problem that 1 out of 2 people on innovate support board has. I didnt do one thing and that was look to see if I get a blink code once this happens. But if it blinks 8 times, then its definitely the same issue.
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Old 12-18-2007, 12:31 PM   #4
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+1.

Where is the sensor located?
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Old 12-18-2007, 12:33 PM   #5
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+1.

Where is the sensor located?
Stock location in the factory manifold.

It worked for 2 weeks before this though. If it is error 8, which is overheating, but can also mean sensor damage according to their site.

I doubt its overheating, especially if I drove it for 2 weeks without a single hickup since I fixed my grounds.
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Old 12-18-2007, 12:34 PM   #6
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WTF dude, why are you so goddam stubborn. E8 is caused BY SENSOR OVERHEAT. If you're not going to listen, stop asking. There is nothing wrong with your LC1, other than its user.
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Old 12-18-2007, 12:35 PM   #7
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WTF dude, why are you so goddam stubborn. E8 is caused BY SENSOR OVERHEAT. If you're not going to listen, stop asking. There is nothing wrong with your LC1, other than its user.
I know its caused by sensor overheat, except I dont know if thats the problem because I forgot to look at the LED when it happens.

Explain why this is happening now when I didnt have any issues for 2 weeks. If It was overheating it would have made itself evident when I was tuning it, taking it to red line and logging, not sitting idleing in my driveway trying to tune my idle.
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Old 12-18-2007, 12:40 PM   #8
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Because you damaged the sensor over 2 weeks and now it's more sensitive.

Because you drive your car harder now than you did 2 weeks ago.

Because it's colder outside now, so you're getting a denser charge, making more power and thus higher EGT

Because you put the bitch in the stock location, despite the fact that you've been told to put it at the back of the downpipe with a heatsink--by me, others, and by the manual.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TFM
On TURBO CHARGED vehicles:
Install the bung downstream from the turbo before the catalytic converter. The high exhaust
pressure before the turbo interferes with the lambda measurement and the high exhaust
temperatures encountered there can damage the sensor.
Stop bashing a perfectly good product that only doesn't work because of UE.
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Old 12-18-2007, 12:41 PM   #9
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I dont have a turbo installed.
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Old 12-18-2007, 12:42 PM   #10
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Fine. It's still overheating.
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Old 12-18-2007, 12:43 PM   #11
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Fine. It's still overheating.
Well it wasnt two weeks ago, and the temperature outside hasnt changed much. It was around 0 centigrade then, and its around 0 centigrade now.

What are the factory EGT's the engine emits? I bet they arent higher then the limits of this sensor.
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Old 12-18-2007, 12:44 PM   #12
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It's ******* overheating

2 weeks ago it was less degraded than now
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Old 12-18-2007, 12:45 PM   #13
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It's ******* overheating

Well then I have no clue what to do now.

I cant use it anymore period, until I get a turbo. So much for tuning before a turbo to learn how it works.

If it was overheating, it would have gone ape **** way before. From the first overheat it would have thrown a code, thats what I believe.
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Old 12-18-2007, 12:52 PM   #14
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Turbo or not, you need to get a bung welded in further down the exhaust stream.

C
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Old 12-18-2007, 12:52 PM   #15
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Well, you could read the manual. Specifically the page that shows you how to make a heat sink. Or you could purchase the HBX-1 Heat Sink Bung Extender. Or you could use the included weld on bung to relocate the sensor further down the downpipe.
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Old 12-18-2007, 12:54 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by chriscar View Post
Turbo or not, you need to get a bung welded in further down the exhaust stream.

C
LOL, the NEWB used his first post to get on the bandwagon...
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Old 12-18-2007, 12:54 PM   #17
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Listen, let's try an experiment.

Go thee forth to Ye Olde' Local Exhaust Shoppe, and purchase an O2 sensor bung. Shouldn't cost but a few shillings. Install said bung into the midpipe in what we consider the "standard" location, which is about a foot before the catalytic converter, pointing straight up.

Then, fabricate a heatsink using the method described in the LC-1 manual- just a piece of flat metal stock (copper or aluminum) bent into a flattened U shape and installed between the sensor and the bung.

Try that, and see if the problem persists.
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Old 12-18-2007, 12:56 PM   #18
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Joe, the LC1 even includes a weld on bung with the kit.
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Old 12-18-2007, 12:59 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben View Post
Well, you could read the manual. Specifically the page that shows you how to make a heat sink. Or you could purchase the HBX-1 Heat Sink Bung Extender. Or you could use the included weld on bung to relocate the sensor further down the downpipe.
Probably easier to get the bung extender because the shop will probably charge me the same money to have a bung welded in further down stream.
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Old 12-18-2007, 01:10 PM   #20
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Quote:
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LOL, the NEWB used his first post to get on the bandwagon...
Noob to this forum, yes. Noob to boosted 4 bangers, no.

Nissan NX2000 w/T28 dyno'd at 297 whp.

C
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