LC1 problems again.....
12-18-2007, 11:23 AM
#1
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LC1 problems again.....
This thing is a piece of ****. I am starting to really get pissed at it.
Now I got a new problem. Just started out of the blue.
The LC1 would report accurate readings on both the gauge and the megasquirt. It will work for 15 min and then go erratic and stop sendings readings to both gauge and MS. The gauges AFR reading would slowly increase by .1 from the last good functioning reading, and the megasquirt just dies with 10afr.
If I restart the car, maybe it will work for another 5 min and then the same **** happens again.
No clue what the hell, but im gonna go home today, reflash the firm, pull the damn sensor again to recalibrate and pray it works because this thing is a nuisance.
Now I got a new problem. Just started out of the blue.
The LC1 would report accurate readings on both the gauge and the megasquirt. It will work for 15 min and then go erratic and stop sendings readings to both gauge and MS. The gauges AFR reading would slowly increase by .1 from the last good functioning reading, and the megasquirt just dies with 10afr.
If I restart the car, maybe it will work for another 5 min and then the same **** happens again.
No clue what the hell, but im gonna go home today, reflash the firm, pull the damn sensor again to recalibrate and pray it works because this thing is a nuisance.
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12-18-2007, 11:31 AM
#3
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Worked fine for like 2 weeks though.
Otherwise I am basically experiencing the same problem that 1 out of 2 people on innovate support board has. I didnt do one thing and that was look to see if I get a blink code once this happens. But if it blinks 8 times, then its definitely the same issue.
Otherwise I am basically experiencing the same problem that 1 out of 2 people on innovate support board has. I didnt do one thing and that was look to see if I get a blink code once this happens. But if it blinks 8 times, then its definitely the same issue.
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12-18-2007, 11:33 AM
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Stock location in the factory manifold.
It worked for 2 weeks before this though. If it is error 8, which is overheating, but can also mean sensor damage according to their site.
I doubt its overheating, especially if I drove it for 2 weeks without a single hickup since I fixed my grounds.
It worked for 2 weeks before this though. If it is error 8, which is overheating, but can also mean sensor damage according to their site.
I doubt its overheating, especially if I drove it for 2 weeks without a single hickup since I fixed my grounds.
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12-18-2007, 11:34 AM
#6
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WTF dude, why are you so goddam stubborn. E8 is caused BY SENSOR OVERHEAT. If you're not going to listen, stop asking. There is nothing wrong with your LC1, other than its user.
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12-18-2007, 11:35 AM
#7
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Explain why this is happening now when I didnt have any issues for 2 weeks. If It was overheating it would have made itself evident when I was tuning it, taking it to red line and logging, not sitting idleing in my driveway trying to tune my idle.
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12-18-2007, 11:40 AM
#8
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Because you damaged the sensor over 2 weeks and now it's more sensitive.
Because you drive your car harder now than you did 2 weeks ago.
Because it's colder outside now, so you're getting a denser charge, making more power and thus higher EGT
Because you put the bitch in the stock location, despite the fact that you've been told to put it at the back of the downpipe with a heatsink--by me, others, and by the manual.
Because you drive your car harder now than you did 2 weeks ago.
Because it's colder outside now, so you're getting a denser charge, making more power and thus higher EGT
Because you put the bitch in the stock location, despite the fact that you've been told to put it at the back of the downpipe with a heatsink--by me, others, and by the manual.
Originally Posted by TFM
On TURBO CHARGED vehicles:
Install the bung downstream from the turbo before the catalytic converter. The high exhaust
Install the bung downstream from the turbo before the catalytic converter. The high exhaust
pressure before the turbo interferes with the lambda measurement and the high exhaust
temperatures encountered there can damage the sensor.Stop bashing a perfectly good product that only doesn't work because of UE.
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12-18-2007, 11:45 AM
#13
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Well then I have no clue what to do now.
I cant use it anymore period, until I get a turbo. So much for tuning before a turbo to learn how it works.
If it was overheating, it would have gone ape **** way before. From the first overheat it would have thrown a code, thats what I believe.
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12-18-2007, 11:52 AM
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Well, you could read the manual. Specifically the page that shows you how to make a heat sink. Or you could purchase the HBX-1 Heat Sink Bung Extender. Or you could use the included weld on bung to relocate the sensor further down the downpipe.
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12-18-2007, 11:54 AM
#17
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Listen, let's try an experiment.
Go thee forth to Ye Olde' Local Exhaust Shoppe, and purchase an O2 sensor bung. Shouldn't cost but a few shillings. Install said bung into the midpipe in what we consider the "standard" location, which is about a foot before the catalytic converter, pointing straight up.
Then, fabricate a heatsink using the method described in the LC-1 manual- just a piece of flat metal stock (copper or aluminum) bent into a flattened U shape and installed between the sensor and the bung.
Try that, and see if the problem persists.
Go thee forth to Ye Olde' Local Exhaust Shoppe, and purchase an O2 sensor bung. Shouldn't cost but a few shillings. Install said bung into the midpipe in what we consider the "standard" location, which is about a foot before the catalytic converter, pointing straight up.
Then, fabricate a heatsink using the method described in the LC-1 manual- just a piece of flat metal stock (copper or aluminum) bent into a flattened U shape and installed between the sensor and the bung.
Try that, and see if the problem persists.
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