Ok here goes (flame suite on)...

Off road, (no heater core).

1)First remove and the thermostat housing and get a 30mm freeze plug tap it in front of head.

2)Take housing and cut off the flange that originally mounted to the head, smooth the edge out. Discard flange.

3)Pull out strange t-hose thingie pressed into housing, yes it comes out. Drill and tap the hole for the ECM coolant sensor.



Drill a hole or two in thermostat (for constant flow).



Assemble the top and bottom of thermostat housing and don't forget to put thermostat in there.



Than acquire another thermostat housing (just top part) the one with the cooling fan sensor. But a bolt in the sensor hole. Don't forget to cap the return line to water pump with rubber cap (one under header).



Place on rear of motor and get a curved hose to get around intake.





Place inline thermostat housing on end of hose (if it sits where mine does both cooling fan sensor and ECM coolant sensor wires reach). Find another hose to reach from there to radiator.



Route the front coolant lines from intake to water pump including what ever you have...Turbo, TB, EGR, butt warmer.




There you have it, a reroute costing, uh...one junk yard thermostat housing and two hoses. Found mine in garage, so its FREE!


PS: I bet if you did not drill holes in thermostat and ran the "cursed" water plug to the heater core and left the out of the heater core hooked to the water pump return you would have heat, cheep.

 

Nice, im actually going to steal your idea and mount my thermostat like this. Thanks for the writeup and pics.

 

We did a reroute on our lemons car too but it was just done with the front piece for the water pump. We used a 1.8L front thermostat cover and replaced the stock inlet for the water pump with that. Then we bypassed the heater and put a T in tied it back in to the front upper radiator hose.

Looks good. Isn't being able to do things you wouldn't normally be willing to do to a car fun?

 

I cant wait to see how this car does

 

Here is it installed.





Yes its galvanized threaded pipe. lol

 

Mike, I see a part that isn't rusted and I hear Lemons judges will take points off for non-rusted parts. The clutch line bracket is probably worth a few points though.

 

Not rusted, look what I had to contend with today...

MAJOR POINTS!

 

just squirt a little salt water on it. it'll be race ready in no time.

 

Wd-40 ftw

 

hehehe. how reliable do you think this would be?

 

the fuel pump...not very, the reroute should be good.

 

Wait, this isn't right. Shouldn't you be stringing us along with meaningless pictures of individual components, telling us we're not smart enough to understand how it works, and refusing to show a picture of the whole system put together? Not to mention the fact that you seem to have a functioning grasp of fluid dynamics and actually understand how what you've built is going to work.

I thought that's how reroute threads were supposed to be?


edit: For those who don't get it, see here.

 

ClubRoadster.net • View topic - Poll: Market Coolant Reroutes [ Guest ]


just throwin in part 2...

 

HA! No doubt.

This reroute is 20X more awesome than Hyper's. Oh wait, I forget my math. Dividing any number by ZERO equals infinity. This is infinitely better than Hyper's.

 

Not fair Joe...how would you feel if you were an idiot and no one ever told you lol.

OP...great work...hope this works out. Rusty recycled parts FTW!

 

What is that hose you used? I plan on doing something very similar down the road (i already have a spacer and hardline return), but that hose off the back of the head would be perfect for me.


props on your reroute, it's very similar to what Olderguy did years back.


off topic: that Big Dog load leveler is a POS isn't it?

 

I'll see if I can find part # on receipt, came from advance.

Yea the leveler is crap but for free it was nice, came with lift from my bro for x-mas!

 

is it still on the barcode?

 

This worked so well it was unbelievable to all the members on the team. We would race for an hour on the track WOT most of the time (80+ temps outside)and than pull into pits and pop the hood and there was no pressure in the cooling system???? It worked that well, we could pull the rad cap and check fluids on a pit stop! Crazy. If we left the two fans defaulted on during the race the temperature gauge actually would go down below the center of the gauge.

Now If I could just figure a way to get the heater core involved in this I'll put it on my turbo car.