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Old 05-17-2008, 11:17 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Joe Perez View Post
I'd think you'd have remembered what year car your diff came out of. If nothing else, the '94+ diff is not directly interchangeable into a '91 without also replacing the propshaft and axles. Ring any bells?

Yep it did. I changed the drive shaft so it was a 94. And the output shafts
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Old 05-18-2008, 02:27 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by wes65 View Post
I've heard that you can take out your front sway bar to allow more weight to transfer to the back and therefore reduce wheel hop. I may be way off base here.
That isn't going to do ****, unless your 1/4 is an oval track. You want the car to squat, a sway bar will neither help nor hinder squat. Even if it did you have it backwards. Removing the front sway wouldn't be what you'd want to do.

Get softer springs in the rear, very little compression dampening in the shocks and a pile of suspension travel in the rear wouldn't hurt either.

I'm convinced wheel hop is 90% technique. When I launch I slowly release the clutch until the tires start slipping then let her rip. No wheel hop and easier on the drive train.

Last edited by jayc72; 05-18-2008 at 03:21 PM.
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Old 05-18-2008, 02:44 AM   #23
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I'm convinced wheel hope is 90% technique. When I launch I slowly release the clutch until the tires start slipping then let her rip. No wheel hop and easier on the drive train.
But super hard on the clutch. I get bad wheelhop.. I need to try the diff bushings I have.
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Old 05-18-2008, 03:19 AM   #24
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Stiffer motor mounts?
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Old 05-18-2008, 10:36 AM   #25
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pulled mine out tonight and had to put a open diff into it. That was the only diff i could get my hands on at the time being.

the other rear end got fucked off bad
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Old 05-18-2008, 03:20 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by cardriverx View Post
But super hard on the clutch. I get bad wheelhop.. I need to try the diff bushings I have.
4 autocross seasons on this clutch and all is still good. I'd rather replace a wear item like a clutch more often than have to replace a diff or transmission because I do 5K rpm clutch dumps.
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Old 05-19-2008, 12:30 AM   #27
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I'll let you know if this works when ever it gets here, been on backorder for a month!!!
http://www.mmmiata.com/images/products/MM147-BRP1.jpg

PS: I have poly diff mounts and stiff motor mounts and they dont help.
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Old 05-19-2008, 03:14 AM   #28
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Well - I don't have a miata to look at to see if its at all similar - but I remember from old RWD mopar that you would get wheel-hop when the leaf springs would get wound up (twisted) allowing the nose of the pinion to rise and create an unfavorable pinion angle. When traction would break, the energy stored in the spring would release in a violent manner. One of the ways we would band-aid this was with an adjustable pinion snubber located on the nose of the pinion housing.

However, with the Miata I believe the center section is firmly attached to the frame- is that correct?
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Old 05-19-2008, 03:47 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by Cogz View Post
However, with the Miata I believe the center section is firmly attached to the frame- is that correct?
"firmly" Hmmmmm thats debatable. And there in is the problem.....
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Old 05-19-2008, 04:37 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IcantDo55 View Post
I'll let you know if this works when ever it gets here, been on backorder for a month!!!
http://www.mmmiata.com/images/products/MM147-BRP1.jpg
Ooh. I like that.
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Old 05-19-2008, 08:25 AM   #31
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wheel hop could also be caused by bad suspention bushings, causeing the wheel to toe in and out
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Old 05-19-2008, 11:15 AM   #32
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My rear strut is dead also that is where my wheel hop came from.That and trying to leave the hole at 7200 rpm at 9psi of boost. I slipped the clutch just not enough


seth
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