Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 664040)
Many of us have issues getting our cars to idle steady WITH idle valves.
Unless his hydra has some magical way of fixing it, its going to be a PITA. Look at all the MS NB users with idle issues. With fleoforas luck his shit will probably sawzall itself. The Hydra actually can pull or add timing to control the idle. It is just a 2d map though without tuneability like PID. |
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 664019)
Not using an idle valve is fucking retarded on a daily driven/street car.
Absolutely mind blowing retarded. Question: How do older carbeurated engines hold an idle? How does my 1978 BMW control its idle without an ECU and with shitty mechanical injection? Answer: Controlled vac leak via the idle screw. The reason you and so many other people have issues controlling your idle is poor tuning and setup. Period. (or maybe a failing/failed valve) For some of us, a simpler system is better. I don't necessarily support running ENTIRELY without one due to hard starts, but it is in no way retarded to run without one. My car would maintain a steady 800-900rpm idle 100% of the time. I adjusted it ~2times/year to compensate for the weather. Other than that, no issues. (I'm just kidding about the skullfuck-till-you-die thing :makeout:.....I'd kill you first) |
Wow my troll skills must have leveled up without me noticing. Such intense debate over ISC
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Cool, now you need to remove the electronic fuel injection and the electronic ignition as well, carbs and dizzys are the new EFI. Cars in the 20s didn't have EFI, so why the fuck do you need it now?
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Originally Posted by Reverant
(Post 664121)
Cool, now you need to remove the electronic fuel injection and the electronic ignition as well, carbs and dizzys are the new EFI. Cars in the 20s didn't have EFI, so why the fuck do you need it now?
Ultimately, ISCs are a LUXURY ITEM in the grand scheme of things.Are they absolutely essential to a vehicle's operation (under normal circumstances)? NO If properly tuned will they aid cold-starts and provide a nice smooth idle? YES Can they cause havoc when improperly set-up and/or fail? FUCK YES So to all of those out there on the bandwagon, please, aside from the obvious point of shitty starting that I've pointed out already -> Tell me why you think an idle speed controller is such a fucking necessity. Please. I'm totally serious. Lay it out for me in simple terms as to why you need them so badly. |
Because stalling on an intersection when cold is not fun.
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Mine takes about 1/2 mile even in 34 degree weather to keep a steady idle and never die. It's lower than a warm idle, but it's an idle. It's certainly not stalling in that first 1/4-1/2 mile. And that's when I hit my first intersection leaving my street, so it really never stalls.
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I leave down town, so that's not an option. Car is parked in the (busy) street, parallel parking, etc. First intersection is within 50 feet from my house. You can imagine the joy.
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Originally Posted by Reverant
(Post 664139)
I leave down town, so that's not an option. Car is parked in the (busy) street, parallel parking, etc. First intersection is within 50 feet from my house. You can imagine the joy.
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Yup, I already have the relocation kit from Moss.
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I've run without the idle valve... I much prefer with it. Especially since I have a street car and I use the a/c a lot. Once I spent the man hours to acutally tune my idle settings it's now better than stock.
However, with that being said, I've driven plenty of miatas without them and so long as you keep the idle around 1000-1100 it's fine. |
Honestly, mine had just failed when I removed it, so rather than popping for a new one I blocked it off. Since I had a filter on it before (thanks M2CupCar) when it failed it was a boost leak. Blocking it off gave me a lower, steady idle and some more power.
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OK well hmm I will experiment and rip off the wires to the ISC for a day and see if it is amazing.
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then proceed to turn on the a/c
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Originally Posted by cjsafski
(Post 664073)
If your using an aftermarket ecu this uses the same idle circuit as the miata. Easy to mount and easy to find cheap in junk yards. It's the 2 wire idle valve from older volvos.
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Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 664203)
then proceed to turn on the a/c
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Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 664203)
then proceed to turn on the a/c
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Originally Posted by faeflora
(Post 664209)
I am taking out A/C.
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Originally Posted by ianferrell
(Post 664208)
Neat, am I being deceived or does that use an injector clip for the connector?
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Originally Posted by Reverant
(Post 663856)
Is this the coolest latest trend? Why would you NOT want to run an idle valve?
I've retuned the idle valve settings multiple times following the MS3 closed loop instructions and it still occurs. |
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