My car won't really idle at under 900rpm anyways.

The Hydra actually can pull or add timing to control the idle. It is just a 2d map though without tuneability like PID.

 

Change your tone before I **** you in the head until you die.

Question: How do older carbeurated engines hold an idle? How does my 1978 BMW control its idle without an ECU and with shitty mechanical injection?

Answer: Controlled vac leak via the idle screw.

The reason you and so many other people have issues controlling your idle is poor tuning and setup. Period. (or maybe a failing/failed valve)

For some of us, a simpler system is better. I don't necessarily support running ENTIRELY without one due to hard starts, but it is in no way retarded to run without one. My car would maintain a steady 800-900rpm idle 100% of the time. I adjusted it ~2times/year to compensate for the weather. Other than that, no issues.

(I'm just kidding about the skullfuck-till-you-die thing .....I'd kill you first)

 

Wow my troll skills must have leveled up without me noticing. Such intense debate over ISC

 

Cool, now you need to remove the electronic fuel injection and the electronic ignition as well, carbs and dizzys are the new EFI. Cars in the 20s didn't have EFI, so why the **** do you need it now?

 

I know several people that have removed their EFI systems in favor of carbs because they prefer it that way. Cute attempt at sarcasm though.

Ultimately, ISCs are a LUXURY ITEM in the grand scheme of things.Are they absolutely essential to a vehicle's operation (under normal circumstances)?
NO

If properly tuned will they aid cold-starts and provide a nice smooth idle?
YES

Can they cause havoc when improperly set-up and/or fail?
**** YES

So to all of those out there on the bandwagon, please, aside from the obvious point of shitty starting that I've pointed out already -> Tell me why you think an idle speed controller is such a ******* necessity.

Please. I'm totally serious. Lay it out for me in simple terms as to why you need them so badly.

 

Because stalling on an intersection when cold is not fun.

 

Mine takes about 1/2 mile even in 34 degree weather to keep a steady idle and never die. It's lower than a warm idle, but it's an idle. It's certainly not stalling in that first 1/4-1/2 mile. And that's when I hit my first intersection leaving my street, so it really never stalls.

 

I leave down town, so that's not an option. Car is parked in the (busy) street, parallel parking, etc. First intersection is within 50 feet from my house. You can imagine the joy.

 

will you run an ISC with the ITB's?

 

Yup, I already have the relocation kit from Moss.

 

I've run without the idle valve... I much prefer with it. Especially since I have a street car and I use the a/c a lot. Once I spent the man hours to acutally tune my idle settings it's now better than stock.

However, with that being said, I've driven plenty of miatas without them and so long as you keep the idle around 1000-1100 it's fine.

 

Honestly, mine had just failed when I removed it, so rather than popping for a new one I blocked it off. Since I had a filter on it before (thanks M2CupCar) when it failed it was a boost leak. Blocking it off gave me a lower, steady idle and some more power.

 

OK well hmm I will experiment and rip off the wires to the ISC for a day and see if it is amazing.

 

then proceed to turn on the a/c

 

Neat, am I being deceived or does that use an injector clip for the connector?

 

I am taking out A/C.

 

^ I'll admit that this is one thing that I never take into account. AC and PS were the first things I pulled out of my car when I first bought it. If you keep them, keep the IAC, otherwise you will hate life.

 

why?! have a thing for sweaty *****?

 

I think its the same clip as the bosch style injectors. I just clipped the connector from the car i got my valve off of to be sure.

 

My idle is very finicky on startup. If I don't let the car run for 20-30s immediately following startup, then the idle will hang at 1800rpm until the next time I start the car. This is running closed loop with diypnp.

I've retuned the idle valve settings multiple times following the MS3 closed loop instructions and it still occurs.