I don't know, that makes sense so you might be right.

I've never built an engine that wasn't getting balanced and printed anyway

 

Cutting the counter weights requires balancing - but it's part of the process. If the shop said the mains need to be cut, I'd just get another "good" crank. It wouldn't be worth the cost of cutting (reducing the mains size) and renitriding (which I would want with a boosted engine). I have cut the mains on a crank and gone with oversize bearings BUT it was normally aspirated so the demands weren't near boost demands.

 

Your mains should never need to be resized unless you spun a bearing or something. All they'll do is stick it on their rotating machine and put a little polish on it. Most places don't have the expensive equipment required to grind a crank and instead will align hone the block to adjust you clearances.

 

Block and crank were already race prepped, but the crank mains surface was beyond polish. Money invested in the rest was cause enough for OS bearings and mains cut on the crank.

 

I'm thinking about just running a stock 99 motor, and holding the rods and pistons in a safe place...and making less power. Is this dumb? It would save me a $1500 or so, and I don't know if shooting for lap records is worth the $1500 in glory.

 

I would wait. Get a spare engine, when yours blows replace it with yours and build the blown while the 2nd stock is running

 

How about this, do what ever you want to do with YOUR money. Sounds good?

 

This is what I did, but not necessarily by choice.

 

stock 94 auto bottom end + stock 99 head. then you get the lower compression and better head flow. and cheap.

 

at this point I'll have to buy whatever motor falls in my lap. I guess if it runs, I'll drive it till it dies.

 

If you're not trying to push over 300whp I don't see the point of a built motor anyways.

I was under the impression that you had a running motor in the car right now. Just throw your turbo kit on it and go.

 

I'd go stock until you get another job... then build the "power block"

 

or consider a cheap block, rods, and stock pistons. dont re-bore, just re-hone.

 

he's already got rods & pistons
what's overbore cost? $15 per hole? do it...

 

I have a 1.6 in the car now, and I bought 1.8 parts with the 99 motor inlet pipe.

 

I'd pick up a 94-95 long block, install it, forget it. Then sell the new parts and put it towards track time. As mentioned, you're not looking for enough power to call for all this engine building (and expensive parts). A buddy of mine tracked his 95 with an AVO running 12psi for at least 25 track weekends over five years and never had an engine problem. Worry about a rebuild when you need to. Meanwhile put the car together and drive.

 

how much power loss am I looking at when downgrading to an NA motor from the better flowing NB head?

 

I can tell you that the NA 1.8 with the avo made 267whp and 262ftlbs of torque at 15psi with a Link ecu. So you shouldn't have any trouble making your 220 at lower boost. The head swap can always come later. You want the 94-95 short block for the lower compression.

 

i'm so not following.

where is your 99 motor? is it at that shop?

 

the block and head are at the shop, the rods and pistons were in his car. I have the rods and pistons, the ******* who owns the shop won't give back the motor because he's crazy religious and doesn't like the machinist who's been dating the owner's daughter for like 3 years because he bought a motorcycle instead of a ring for his daughter. His daughter isn't upset, but her daddy is.