machine work qizzzzestion
#22
Cutting the counter weights requires balancing - but it's part of the process. If the shop said the mains need to be cut, I'd just get another "good" crank. It wouldn't be worth the cost of cutting (reducing the mains size) and renitriding (which I would want with a boosted engine). I have cut the mains on a crank and gone with oversize bearings BUT it was normally aspirated so the demands weren't near boost demands.
#23
Your mains should never need to be resized unless you spun a bearing or something. All they'll do is stick it on their rotating machine and put a little polish on it. Most places don't have the expensive equipment required to grind a crank and instead will align hone the block to adjust you clearances.
#25
Tour de Franzia
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I'm thinking about just running a stock 99 motor, and holding the rods and pistons in a safe place...and making less power. Is this dumb? It would save me a $1500 or so, and I don't know if shooting for lap records is worth the $1500 in glory.
#36
I'd pick up a 94-95 long block, install it, forget it. Then sell the new parts and put it towards track time. As mentioned, you're not looking for enough power to call for all this engine building (and expensive parts). A buddy of mine tracked his 95 with an AVO running 12psi for at least 25 track weekends over five years and never had an engine problem. Worry about a rebuild when you need to. Meanwhile put the car together and drive.
#40
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the block and head are at the shop, the rods and pistons were in his car. I have the rods and pistons, the ******* who owns the shop won't give back the motor because he's crazy religious and doesn't like the machinist who's been dating the owner's daughter for like 3 years because he bought a motorcycle instead of a ring for his daughter. His daughter isn't upset, but her daddy is.