Is the mechanic guy lying to me???
#26
m2,
I'm glad you're versed on what is availble for these cars.....http://www.flyinmiata.com/index.php?...umber=13-97914
I'm glad you're versed on what is availble for these cars.....http://www.flyinmiata.com/index.php?...umber=13-97914
I think the uneven wear issue gets worse with heaver/wider rims, wider tires and lots of highway driving. I've always had a min. of 1* neg camber and never had odd wear. But it's always city or track driving, light wheels and nothing wider than 205s- mostly less.
#29
Suck. Not a proper engineering solution IMO and in my experience. High G loads make the bushing rotate in the control arm. FM swears they NEVER had anybody ever complain of that problem - but just looking at them you can see how it would happen. You can order bushings offset drilled to whatever spec you want.
This image shows a resolution that works. I've run them on three different race Miatas over the years and NEVER had them fail.
This image shows a resolution that works. I've run them on three different race Miatas over the years and NEVER had them fail.
Last edited by m2cupcar; 03-22-2007 at 04:08 PM.
#32
ISC - http://www.iscracing.net/Miata_Page.htm
They know Miata suspensions. btw- check out the shock upper mounts. Gain 1-1/2" travel - allows you to use a stock length shock on a lowered Miata and keep your shock centered in it's travel. That'd be a good fit for your set up, especially if you went with just lowering springs and stock length aftermarket shocks.
They know Miata suspensions. btw- check out the shock upper mounts. Gain 1-1/2" travel - allows you to use a stock length shock on a lowered Miata and keep your shock centered in it's travel. That'd be a good fit for your set up, especially if you went with just lowering springs and stock length aftermarket shocks.
#34
You have to send them yours, and you get back a set with the bushings installed. I have not bought them from ISC- I had shop make some, have gotten a set from brainstorm and a set from OPM. They all had to be adjusted for bushing width- just so the center sleeve (bearing) sticks out further, so the subframe clamps on it and NOT the delrin, preventing bind. When completely assembly the control will work like it's using bearings- w/o shock attached, it will drop to full extension. Works well. You can buy the bushings from OPM, but I think they're the same price and you have to do the install. I have not installed/used poly bushings, but assume they operate the same and would probably be a better choice for the street since they're softer.
#35
Did you get a print out with your specs on it? The shops are supposed to give you one, and it will let you know it your maxed out.
I know a few alignment techs from several shops, most don't touch the rear suspension. The bolts are usually seized and are more trouble than it's worth to them. Chances are they just didn't want to do it. I'd go back and show the manager your rear bolts aren't touched, then get your money back or a real alignment.
I know a few alignment techs from several shops, most don't touch the rear suspension. The bolts are usually seized and are more trouble than it's worth to them. Chances are they just didn't want to do it. I'd go back and show the manager your rear bolts aren't touched, then get your money back or a real alignment.
#36
I got my money back on Friday. Just said that I was dissapointed with the alignment and the professionalism of the Technician I dealt with. I have been going to the shop for years and never had a problem before. The mechanic is new and I'm sure won't last long. I plan to go and get the aligment redone elsewhere tomorrow
thanks a lot for the advice guys
thanks a lot for the advice guys
#39
I just got my alignment done and I have KYB AGX's with Racing Beat springs. I HAD the alignment set to -2.5 in the back, then decided to pull it out. Without messing with the Toe the tech was able to pull it out to -1.7. The Tech I was working with was very patient (though many times aggravated) and did his best to get the results I was asking for.
Quick question though. When I initially had them set the alignment I ended up bringing it back because the steering wheel wasn't centered. However, aside from that the car would also make a lot of "clanking" or almost like snapping noises when i would start moving the car, or breaking hard. It sounded like the rear bolts weren't tightened down all the way, but when the machine pulled up the current specs they were the same as when I had last left shop.
I guess my question is, do you guys know what the clanking was? I was thinking it was the sway bars hitting the shock/spring. Though it's also possible it's the front ball joints? I was told I had play in my drivers side ball joint. Though now that the car is re-aligned it doesn't make the noises anymore. Any Ideas? and any places I should look for picking up cheap ball joints?
Quick question though. When I initially had them set the alignment I ended up bringing it back because the steering wheel wasn't centered. However, aside from that the car would also make a lot of "clanking" or almost like snapping noises when i would start moving the car, or breaking hard. It sounded like the rear bolts weren't tightened down all the way, but when the machine pulled up the current specs they were the same as when I had last left shop.
I guess my question is, do you guys know what the clanking was? I was thinking it was the sway bars hitting the shock/spring. Though it's also possible it's the front ball joints? I was told I had play in my drivers side ball joint. Though now that the car is re-aligned it doesn't make the noises anymore. Any Ideas? and any places I should look for picking up cheap ball joints?