Ben

iTrader: (33)

I don't have any mounting hardware for my R front spoiler. I'm assuming that I simply clamp it in place and drill the bottom of the front bumper at the lip's mounting points, and install a flange bolt (or bolt with washer) and tighten it with a flange nut (or standard nut with washer).

Anything I need to know? I might go install this thing when I get home tonight, if I feel like it.

levnubhin

iTrader: (30)

Mine is held on with stainless screws and every 6 inches or so.
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miatamania

iTrader: (9)

sounds about right.

reddroptop

iTrader: (4)

Ben, bunch of 10mm bolts with nuts along the bottom, 2 self tapping screws at the edges of the bumper/lip in the fender well. 2 self tapping screws into the undertray at the ends of the brake ducts.

They come with "vampire" clips, but they are not required.

Ben

iTrader: (33)

Thanks, that's what I assumed.

m2cupcar

iTrader: (5)

clamps to hold and pop rivets to fasten ftw

KPLAFIN

iTrader: (1)

Yea go with pop rivets if you can. I had two of them stolen because they were just held on by 10MM bolts.

Ben

iTrader: (33)

no rivet gun. bolts will work.

l_bader

If this post isn't too late, I'd suggest fender washers as well...

- L

cwisenheimer

I assume you already have it attached, but for future reference for others, if you aren't the only driver of your car (i.e., if you have to let someone less attentive drive it periodically to keep peace at home), I suggest mounting the front spoiler with nylon fasteners from the hardware store. That way, when the other driver pulls up INTO a parking bumper for the nth time, the spoiler will break off rather than rip to shreds. FWIW

ST2udent

iTrader: (1)

Pneumatic rivet gun= most versatile fastener tool in the world.
I bought the harbor freight one for 35.00 or so. If you've ever have to do 3/16" stainless rivets the gun is worth its weight in gold. I agree with them and suggest going this route. Make sure to get backing plates along with the rivets since you're riveting urethane. They are little washers you put on the other side of the rivet to keep the rivet from stretching the urethane.

Atlanta93LE

iTrader: (5)

Was this Justin's busted one? Let's see some pics of the repair!

Ben

iTrader: (33)

I'm the only driver. Ball & Chain can't operate the manual trans.

Rivets might be best, but it's getting held on with 6 bolts/washers/nuts and 2 tapping screws. I don't have time to stop by HF before work (HF opens at 8 and so do I), and I am yet to have air at my house anyway.

Ben,
No, not really. A coworker found a better condition one on a car in the shop's back lot. This car is in the grass, not the gravel, and the vegetation was high and thick enough to mask the fact that this car was at some point a 93LE and had its front lip still there. I had the lip removed, and it's in OK shape, but was missing the top of the pass side brake duct. Justin's lip had it still, so I removed it (they're stapled on) and epoxied it to the new one. So if you want Justin's lip minus the brake duct cover, it's yours.

Atlanta93LE

iTrader: (5)

Absolutely. I'm back in town next week (finally); I should come by anyway soon to pick up my **** that is cluttering your space.

Ben

iTrader: (33)

You guys were right; this thing needs to be riveted on. It's slightly tweaked and has a critical mounting tab missing. Rivets would make it look boo-t-full.

Mr CupCar, I know you're a busy family man, but is there any chance I could swing by maybe next weekend and use your fancy equipment?

Stealth97

iTrader: (5)

I used clothespins on mine, worked like a charm