MSM Oil Cooler?
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From: Murfreesboro, TN
Does the MSM use an air oil cooler or a coolant based oil cooler?
I am trying to figure out what kind of cooler to put on my 1.6L car and have always liked the idea of coolant based coolers. They warm the oil up a lot faster and they also keep the oil from getting too hot. I figured that the Mazda engineers would know what worked best.
I am trying to figure out what kind of cooler to put on my 1.6L car and have always liked the idea of coolant based coolers. They warm the oil up a lot faster and they also keep the oil from getting too hot. I figured that the Mazda engineers would know what worked best.
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From: Chicago. (The less-murder part.)
Not sure about the MSM specifically, but most (if not all) of the 1.8 Miatas used a coolant-based oil cooler starting in '94. It's a plate that goes between the filter and the block. Transplanted one onto my '92, and you're absolutely right- oil comes up to temperature much faster when cold.
All you need for the transplant is the plate, the longer threaded pipe, and some 5/16" coolant hose.
Search around- I know I've posted pictures somewhere.
All you need for the transplant is the plate, the longer threaded pipe, and some 5/16" coolant hose.
Search around- I know I've posted pictures somewhere.
The MSM does not have any additional oil cooling apart from what all 1.8 miatas have.
I wonder if the newer Jap spec B6s have the water-oil heat exchanger.
I wonder if the newer Jap spec B6s have the water-oil heat exchanger.
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From: Chicago. (The less-murder part.)
If you can't find one in a boneyard locally, call one of the many Miata-specific salves shops that advertize on miata.net. I got mine from FM, and I believe it was ~$50 or so. Installation was simple, just remove the filter unscrew the old pipe, screw in the new one, slide the plate over the pipe, and install the filter.
For coolant, I tapped into the line that runs from the intake manifold to the thermostat housing.
It's great. Oil temp (as measured after the exchanger) is up to about 150° by the time CLT reaches normal, and it tends to stabilize at around 210-220°, which is pretty much ideal.
For coolant, I tapped into the line that runs from the intake manifold to the thermostat housing.
It's great. Oil temp (as measured after the exchanger) is up to about 150° by the time CLT reaches normal, and it tends to stabilize at around 210-220°, which is pretty much ideal.
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BTW, those readings were in the Autometer gauges I installed in the car.
Thanks
Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Chicago. (The less-murder part.)
In general however, I'd argue that 160-180 is far too cold. Not only does the oil actually work better at temperatures just short of its failure point, but if it never gets hot enough, moisture will never really boil out of it.
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There is some variability from one gauge to the next, and of course a lot depends upon where the gauge sensor is mounted. Mine was placed in a sandwich plate after the heat exchanger. Sensors mounted in the pan will give very different readings.
In general however, I'd argue that 160-180 is far too cold. Not only does the oil actually work better at temperatures just short of its failure point, but if it never gets hot enough, moisture will never really boil out of it.
In general however, I'd argue that 160-180 is far too cold. Not only does the oil actually work better at temperatures just short of its failure point, but if it never gets hot enough, moisture will never really boil out of it.
Thanks for that explanation. Sounds logical. I'll check where my sensor was mounted. I've got a feeling that they mounted it in the oil pan.
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