I'm at a loss. I've done new plug wires, run a gallon of water through the intake plenum (carbon killer) and cleaned the EGR. I don't know where spark time is because the idiot who owned it before me put an under-drive pulley on it, but mechanical timing is right. When I retard timing to what looks like a normal range for the CAS, it misfires and is basically undrivable.

The car detonates, bad, and I know it's weak in #2. The idle is pretty much all over the place. Sometimes 1200rpm, sometimes 800, there is always a 400rpm drop with the AC.

I was 4x the limit on NOX and HC.

Also, when I put MS on this car, will it pass with no EGR?

Thanks for the help.

 

I interpret this to mean the timing belt and cam pulleys are all properly aligned with both sets of cam lobes on #1 facing outwards at TDC? Just no mark on the pulley? I'd put a wood dowel down the #1 spark plug hole so you can see exactly where TDC is, make a little notch on that underdrive pulley by the 0 mark on the timing cover, then fire it up and set the timing without guessing.

Mine did this exact same thing when the timing belt slipped a tooth. Might want to double-check that when the belt and cam sprockets all look aligned properly with 19 belt teeth between the sprockets, you should be able to rotate the crank 720* and still have everything lined up exactly the same. If it doesn't, you're off by one or more teeth.

Possibly related to incorrect timing? Never had my idle this bad, can't say.

Improper timing, misfires, bad cat can all cause this I think.

Mine did. I mean, the EGR tube and valve are still on the car, but with the MAF unhooked from the stock ECU (my MS is in parallel) it's my understanding that EGR is rendered inoperative. Passed with flying colors on most aspects. Got close to the HC limit for the 25 mph portion, but I was datalogging the smog test and know it was running a little rich (low 14s AFR at 50-ish kPa), so I'll just pull a smidgen of fuel in that region for next time.

I'd start with the obvious- mark the crank pulley and get it timed properly, then go from there.

 

Can you not swap back on a stock pulley instead of running the under drive one?

I would definitely check and see if the timing belt did jump any teeth.

As for EGR, is your car OBD1 or OBD2? If it is OBD1 you should be able to get it to pass fine with the engine swap.

 

OBD1. I'm relatively certain the crank and cams are in sync.

 

no friendly inspectors?

 

They're pretty hard to come by these days. I don't know what I'm going to do for the turbo car next year. I might have to put a cat in it and find someone who likes cars.

 

I may just say "**** it" and get a Mariner like this one:

 

Remove that underdrive POS pulley and put the stock back in, verify cam timing and 10* ignition timing.

 

Could be a slipped pulley d/t a loose pulley bolt. Might wanna take it off and check the key way. You'll have to in order to put a stock pulley in, which you WILL do.

 

lol @ finding a stock pulley.

 

Pull the plug on cyl 1
insert something long and skinny (screw driver, wooden dowel, piece of spaghetti, your dick) into spark plug hole
rotate engine while watching object to indicate tdc for cyl 1
make a mark on the pulley at the 0 degree mark on the timing indicator on the timing belt cover
attach timing light and verify timing

it'll at least get you in the ball park

 

Done. I'm definitely not off a tooth.

 

I find it hard to believe, that in Texas of all places, you're having difficulty finding someone to help out a fellow white man.

 

I just want to give a shout out to all the ******** who complain about california's smog laws. **** you very much.

 

I no speaky Spanish.

 

My 95 passes just fine with no EGR. I'd guess yours would too.

 

Can we all agree that mechanically its timed correctly?

 

Yup. That looks right to me.

 

Apparently this motor is fucked.

 

What are the compression and leak down numbers? Oh, you haven't done it yet? Oh, you're wasting our time?