my xtd is a peice of shit - Page 3 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 03-05-2007, 11:16 AM   #41
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All the clutch assemblies are interchangeable. So if you're using the 1.6 clutch kit, you must use a 1.6 flywheel- and same for the 1.8 flywheel with the 1.8 clutch kit.

MXV- you can replace that part. It just unbolts and swaps out. My guess is your TO bearing failing (collapsed) and that removed the "spacing" you needed to disengage the clutch. The wear in the photo above is collateral damage. Did you trash the broken TO bearing yet? If not, check the contact ring in the bearing with the center bore on the pp springs.
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Old 03-05-2007, 09:32 PM   #42
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new tranny is in already with new throwout bearing. that part btw.. is 75 dollars. so i just used the new tranny's and just replaced the gasket and seal for it. lets hope it works now. i think the slave cylinder was the culprit. fingers crossed for getting it tuned on sunday.

to intially start my car with this clutch it hard a hard time cuase it was engaged and took down the rpms, couldnt get it in gear at all so i had to start it in 1st and let it slip and try to wear on the disk to wear off any extra material. after that i could get it in 1st with some effort then it got easier and easier but still not satisfactory. i am hoping once i get to the 500 mile break in mark it will go in gear really easy and in the mean time ill just try to rev match as much as possible and try to save my syncro's. if its still not satisfactory at 1000 miles i am getting an act. but i am going to give it one more try.
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Old 03-05-2007, 11:16 PM   #43
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when my clutch grenaded and locked up, I just cranked the car up in first- the starter got it rolling and I just drove off. I guess that's one advantage to a 4.10 and a 2.0 liter
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Old 03-07-2007, 05:53 AM   #44
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I wrote to aimcoclutch ,and the answer was - "check your slave and master cylinder or clutch cable" But I ve got all in good and working condition,also with old clutch parts. I dont know what to do,
....just cranked the car up in first gear... is so drastic for my car , I am afraid of doing this.
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Old 03-07-2007, 10:09 AM   #45
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no no - that's only if you're stranded and need to get rolling, not for daily use. If you install a new clutch and everything else is within spec, then something's wrong with the clutch kit. Sounds like the same problem MXV is having- can't disengage the clutch. There's something that's created accessive tolerance and won't allow the pedal action to push the diaphragm springs far enough- most likely. The only wark-around (w/o pulling the trans) is to remove the slack in the slave rod and fork IF there is any. And that's no guarantee either. As you can see from the pic, if the TO bearing is fried, the trans needs to be pulled anyway.
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Old 03-07-2007, 05:21 PM   #46
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i had to replace one of those transmission parts on my supra once. it was called a front bearing retainer. some transmission guys have them sitting around, assuming its one of our popular 5 speeds, i dont think it would be all that hard to find. if you find one used from a local guy, they'll probably sell you the part for like $20 or less.
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Old 03-07-2007, 07:36 PM   #47
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i just put in the 1.8 tranny in my other car. mazda i think called it the rear clutch plate or somthing. i wanna say that the pivot point on the clutch fork isnt optimal for these clutches, if i could change that i would get a stiffer pedal but regain clutch movement. i would say move the tob closer the pressure plate or bring the pressure plate closer but all that will do is help it disenage but then it will have problems fully engages as it seems these clutch use the whoole pedal movement which is odd. the only real fix i can think of is the clutch fork pivot point. that would require me to cut off the tower the ball is on and weld it further away from the center of teh tranny and use a whole saw to cut the indentation on the clutch fork and moving it over also and welding it back in. really it should be a free fix for me but longevity and reliability might be compromised and id have to make sure i moved it just the right amount on both the clutch fork and ball mount or i will ruin my pedal feel. probly be a trial and error thing if anything else.
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Old 03-07-2007, 10:45 PM   #48
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hey mxv, take a few more pics I'll see if my "spare" tranny has those parts, if you havent got them already. **** if you were in san diego you could just have it.

wait did you allready replace the tranny?
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Old 03-07-2007, 11:30 PM   #49
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yep, thanks though i would have taken you up on it if i didnt have the parts car. ill probly get my old one welded and machined and polished for super slick tob intercourse action and use that on my back up tranny wish i sure hope i wont need, alot with my back up clutch and diff and axles... god i love miatas

god my undercoat looks like **** on flash :(
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Old 03-09-2007, 09:19 AM   #50
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Default xtd clutch 3- piece off ****

Problem with my xtd clutch kit is with pressure plate - specially its inlet diameter.
It is not possible for bearing /bearing which is include of xtd stage 3 kit is the same size as oem/ to push enough on pressure plate to disangage clutch plate from flywheel.
Solution is a bearing with bigger inlet size or pressure plate with smaller inlet size.
Inlet diameter of oem pressure plate is about 0,5 inch smaller.
Sorry of my english, I hope you understand me, photz included.
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my xtd is a peice of shit-p1020002_up.jpg   my xtd is a peice of shit-p1020003_up.jpg   my xtd is a peice of shit-p1020005_up.jpg  
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Old 03-09-2007, 09:25 AM   #51
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I dont know what to do ,bearing is atypical and it is no way to modify pressure plate. Maybe I will apply old oem pressure plate and 6 puck disc (:
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Old 03-09-2007, 10:13 AM   #52
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This is exactly what happened to me with a brainstorm clutch. At the time (race) I had to swap it out for a JR and just sent it back to BS. I wouldn't be surprised if that's what happened to mxv too- and the spring ends eventually "grabbed" the TO bearing and the destruction began.

You need to try and get a refund - or fixed swap first. That's absurd, and application independent. Doesn't matter what car it's for, it won't work. Did you compare the TO bearing to your original TO bearing?
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Old 03-09-2007, 10:44 AM   #53
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I ve got little bit problem with english shortcut JR- jackson racing? bs- brainstorm? TO bearing is bearing which is on my photo ,I hope.
I dont believe that is really posible to sell something like this anywhere in the world, nor in us fair, ... The answer from ******* aimco clutch will be- check your clutch cable again or adjust your slave clutch cylinder or something stupid like this. Yes the bearing is exactly the same like oem.
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my xtd is a peice of shit-p1020006_up.jpg  
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Old 03-09-2007, 11:02 AM   #54
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Yes, you're correct. Unfortunately this is the risk you run when you buy anything if quality control misses something. Seems the cheaper the product the greater the risk, and after the sale, the more difficult it is to get some justice.

Have you sent them a photo? They really don't have anything worthy of reply other than "Yes, it's wrong." But then again, if they don't care about customer service, they'll tell you tough. If that's the case, I have some ideas that might get the pp to work.
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Old 03-09-2007, 11:24 AM   #55
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I must wait for answer, then we will see ,thanks, of course I send them those photoz
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Old 03-09-2007, 06:37 PM   #56
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well i got it running again with the new tranny and the tob i used to have in it a year ago because i know that one worked. for some reason it disengages perfectly now and does it at about mid pedal feels like stock and i love it!!

my xtd rocks my world
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Old 03-09-2007, 07:15 PM   #57
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elecktron you might check out some other brands of bearings to see if the spring mating ring has a different radius. I notice there's a difference between the two in your pic, so maybe there's others that have a flared surface that might span the gap enough to seat the springs properly.
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Old 03-10-2007, 03:25 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mxv View Post
well i got it running again with the new tranny and the tob i used to have in it a year ago because i know that one worked. for some reason it disengages perfectly now and does it at about mid pedal feels like stock and i love it!!

my xtd rocks my world
So the moral of the story is to use an OEM throw out bearing with the XTD clutch and pressure plate?
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Old 03-10-2007, 11:27 PM   #59
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i am not sure at all what did the trick. it could have been their throw out bearing or it could have somthign to do with draining and rebleeding my clutch hydrolics... not sure but both seemed to fix it and it feels just like stock now. ill find out tommarow if it can hold boost yet with it only at 250 miles of break in.

i really should have check the diameter of the tob and the pressure plate finger's first i just assumed they would have the correct bearing. looks like the other bearing fit inside of it and the fingers hit the plastic part on the bearing that keeps the grease in. probly worn on that enough to spray the grease out... there was alot in my bell housing going from unknown source since the seals are all good and it just got too hot and seized up and broke itself.


cliffnotes..... check your tob and your pressure plate and make sure they are both compatable sizes!
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Old 03-11-2007, 05:34 PM   #60
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This is answer from aimco clutch
" hello.
you put bearing wrong side.
clip side face inside of pressure plate not that side.
Jim"
It s hard to say anything...

to iWeasel410: bearing which is included in xtd clutch kit ,is same sized like oem bearing
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