MX_Eva

yes, the mixing manifold stays there. You can run the heater core coolant into the piping back to the radiator, leaving only "cold" running into the block instead of mixed, however the engine would take a bit to heat up, and certainly on a cold day you'd wish the heater would blow a bit hotter a bit sooner.

Splitime

iTrader: (24)

On the reroute note... just found this linked from a thread on m.net...





http://www.rsaizawa.co.jp/product/engine/eg002.html

TurboTim

iTrader: (9)

Very cool. How much?

paul

iTrader: (21)

looks like 48,300 for the first system & 53,550 for the second.

If that is correct you're talking $411.6126 & $456.3531 respectively.

I think the second one looks way too busy. The first is nice and clean looking though.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

that's crazy. I expect my solution to cost under $75.

Tremiata

iTrader: (1)

Do you still go through the heater core? I was looking at the reroute pic on your site and it doesnt look like it? Maybe its not a problem for you.

paul

iTrader: (21)

if you are asking me, no. i removed the heater core to save weight. heat is for people that have a top and windows.

marty_uiuc

iTrader: (1)

looks like corky has something in the works: http://www.bellengineering.net/Pages/intheshop.html

paul

iTrader: (21)

installed the silicone 90s i got from PAT!




sorry for the shitty pic. it's my cell phone again and the plastic lens cover is broken.

intake next. today actually.

PAT!

iTrader: (1)

That's pimp. Once I get off of my lazy *** I'm going to do something similar.

TurboTim

iTrader: (9)

Today ehh...I guess I better show up then. I'll need to swap pants with my brother as I will not get my fancypants dirty today.

Radiator hoses look good, too bad I didn't do the bends in aluminum. You need a 90 deg. 1.5" blue hose with long legs now for the intercooler pipe

soflarick

iTrader: (8)

I did the reroute when I had the engine out. Kia Sephia waterneck, the JR spacer, 180º thermostat, some metal tubing from the sink section of HD, some radiator hoses in various bends. Did it on the coldside. Not nearly as trick looking as the OPs setup, but it works. I run a 99 head, so I drilled and tapped the head for the heater hose nipple. There was plenty of meat at the outlet in back for it, and plenty of clearance for the hose and clamp, so I didn't have to mod the JR spacer. I put the thermostat right in the head since it has the depression machined. Ran 4 track days and 6000 street miles with it so far. I changed the 1.1 bar cap to a 1.3 bar and kept an eye out for leaks. Haven't seen them yet.

paul

iTrader: (21)

so the t-stat is mounted in the rear of the head?

seeing how it's such a PITA to change that heater hose i didn't wanna deal with trying to change the t-stat back there so i did the external housing.

TurboTim

iTrader: (9)

Closer pic of the thermostat housing:

hustler

iTrader: (6)

I assume there is no dramatic temp differential from a thermostat at the head, and 2' away?

soflarick

iTrader: (8)

Yep, fit in there. I saw on Frank's Miata Page that there was enough meat on the 99 head to drill and tap, so I checked my 99 head and there was plenty of room and thickness to do it.

Going to update the hoses from cobbled metal and rubber to braided AN hose and some stronger clamps. Gotta do the oil cooler lines as well.

paul

iTrader: (21)

that's why i have the turbo right below it. it's doubles as a water heater.

Saml01

iTrader: (9)

What are you using to measure if you have increased cooling capability?

paul

iTrader: (21)

common sense. hot water used to exit the back of the head and go back into the engine via the mixing manifold to the water pump. now the engine is only fed by water coming directly from the radiator.